Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (4 Viewers)

[watrob]

Here is a few more photos, Efjay the last photo t should interest you, you can see the engine leaning anti clockwise which off sets the 75 series BH.

 

[Mad Hun]

They did a good job, considering it was already gal'd before the 80 series suspension was welded on. They did 2 cleans, one to remove the surface rust from the 80 series items, then they had to chemically clean the old gal off, then hot dip in gal, for $475 its bets dollars I have ever spent?

PS. the chassis weighs 170kg with all the extra 80 series suspension that has been added?


Lao

Hi Lao,

That seems ridiculously cheap insurance. Would you mind PM'ing me their contact details; Brisbane based I taked it?

Awesome Job!

 

[Mad Hun]

A lot of the coatings are ceramic, the block, sump & head have been painted with a high heat resistant paint which I did but the base coat on these were put on by the company that reco'd the engine after it was chemically cleaned, all the other parts & brackets including turbo have been professionally coated and baked by Revolution Coatings (its not a rattle can job). The harmonic balance is also had a ceramic coating.

The turbo and exhaust manifold are also internally ceramic coated as well, its said it reduces heat by 30%. The only couple of things I have sand blasted and painted are the power steering pump & bracket, alternator, fan clutch and thermostat housing. I cleaned, etched primed and painted every bolt & nut.

The are air intakes that go across the top of the rocker cover (as was every other component, was coated by Revolution Coatings) I just hand painted the red & black "Toyota Diesel" words and they recoated a clear over the top.

I originally stripped the engine, sent the bare long motor off for rebuild, sent off all individual parts to be painted. Ordered a new CHRA for the turbo, then re-assembled all components back onto the engine, including re-installing the IP pump after Diesel Australia did a service on it and I bought new injectors which I coated & installed.

Basically there are no parts on this engine that have not been coated in some way. The current 2H I have which has been running for nearly 7 years on the beach was a rattle can job and is still in pretty good condition. The 2H was never rebuilt but a did paint it, removed and painted the exhaust manifold and heat shields, and then spayed the balance of the engine with heat resistant paint including pullies, power steering pump, IP pump etc.

Its worth doing if you have the engine on a stand, as for my 40, other than the beach its self, its a pretty clean environment, its just the corrosive natures you have to be one step ahead of?

That engine is a work of art!

I can vouch for the Ceramic Coating. We built a fairly hot 4EFTE Starlet motor in an EP82 Starlet and HPC Extreme Coated (now called Turbo Coat) the manifold and turbine housing, HP1 on the 3" dump pipe and intercooler piping and rocker cover for good measure, and looks and the difference in under bonnet temps was ridiculous. I'm not going to suggest you could hold you hand on it, but after normal driving you could touch the exhaust manifold with your finger and not require surgery. That of course was a side benefit, the main reason we did it was to maintain gas temperatures and subsequent flow.

If I was building an engine I wouldn't think twice about it.

 

[watrob]

Moved my 40 to the main garage today to start the fibre glass tube change over.
There are some photos of the 3" 316 stainless steel exhaust.

 

[watrob]

Had to dumped the 2" lift King coils as the lift was to high, placed the standard 80 series coils back in but they only give me 4" to the bump stop. So I have ordered a standard height set from Kings which are 30% heavier, this will give me around 5"- 6" clearance. Also dumped the 60 series steering rods & linkages as the angles were wrong.

 

[watrob]

Fab'd up a splash tray to keep the salt & beach sand away from the power steering pump, pulley & harmonic balancer.

 

[watrob]

Here are a few more photos.

 

[watrob]

My King springs arrived today, these will give the front a lift by around 2" as it sits from the standard 80 series front springs currently installed at the moment. With the fibreglass body, radiator, battery and bulbar installed it will drop it back down by 1", this should give me about 5" to 5 1/2" above the bump stop. At compressed bump stop there is around 3/4" still left in the shock, the shocks have 10" of travel in them.

 

[watrob]

I picked up another transmission cross member out of a 60 series and had it galvanised (picked it up this afternoon) as the one I installed in the new chassis was just sandblasted, etch primed & painted, it was sitting on the shelf for a couple of years and I thought I had galvanised it. On installing it got scratched and I realised it was just painted.

Also picked up my altered front & rear drive shafts from Driveline Australia this afternoon as well. The longer of the two is from a 75 series rear shaft, shortened to fit the front, the other shorter one is the rear which was also shortened because I am running a 5 speed. The flanges on the universal joints are larger (75, 80 series) so to fit the larger flanges on the 5 speed transmission. The pinion flange on the front diff is larger as I am using a 80 series rear diff on the front which houses the Harrop Eaton e-locker. The rear diff is a rebuilt 40 series but has a Lokka installed, both shafts have been balanced also.

T

 

[watrob]

As you can see from the photos below I took to the emergency disc brake with a cutting angle grinder and converted the park brake from right hand to left hand. Will clean it up, etch prime & paint and refit.

 

[want2wheel]

Good job on the conversion.

 

[watrob]

I have bitten the bullet, have a engineering shop building me 4 stainless steel 316 disc brake rotors, they won't be ready for a few months so I will just run with current steel rotors I have installed on the new chassis until they are ready.

The steel rotors are my weakest point in the build for full time beach vehicle, the previous (current running chassis) the rotors rusted so bad that they just tear the disc brake pads to bits, probably would not be so bad if the 40 was driven every day but being only used on weekends is the problem.

On a normal road vehicle pulling rotors off is not so hard, as you know its a little more involved with a 40?

 

[watrob]

The last couple weekends I have gotten a fair bit done. I pulled down my steering column to insert the bearing for support, got 80
series steering shaft plus 75 series uni joints. Will put a 45mm long spline on the 40 series steering column.

 

[watrob]

I etch primed & painted the galvanised towbar and installed, also the rear alloy extension for the extended sports tub.

 

[watrob]

I installed a new rear diff pinion flange, assembled the rear drive shaft and installed along with the disc hand brake on the rear of the gearbox.

I am pretty happy with the alignment of the drive shafts both front & rear.

 

[watrob]

Installed the front drive shaft, starter motor & clutch slave cylinder.

 

[watrob]

I had originally installed a gearbox cross member from a HJ47, the FJ40 chassis are a little wider so you have to use packing plates on each side of the left & right L brackets. I found that if you use the left & right side brackets off a HJ47 but use the 60 series cross member part, you don't need packing plate as the 60 series cross member is wider.

This photo shows using the HJ47 brackets & cross member.

This after I install ed the 60 series cross member, still used the HJ47 L brackets but removed the packing plates.

 

[watrob]

Installed the steering arms & linkages.

 

[watrob]

A few shorts of the rear disc brake install.

 

[watrob]

Front disc brake and spring coil assembly.