Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (2 Viewers)

[watrob]

My fan blade finally showed up so the 12Ht is now ready to be mated to the 5 speed, completed a spanner check over the engine and happy I have not missed anything.

Going to finish off the suspension and install the springs now all my spacers have turned up as well, then install the front and rear diffs. Once that is done I can slot the engine & gearbox into the chassis, the gearbox cross member can then be permanently bolted into position once I get the gearbox alignment to the diffs set correctly.

I am still waiting on my front FOX shocks to arrive, hopefully early next week. I managed to buy on eBay another spare 40 series diesel wiring harness complete with all relays (timer, glow, start etc) still attached for $45, there becoming hard to come by as are the relays.

 

[watrob]

I need some knowledge parted onto me about the angle/level of the combine engine gearbox placement in the chassis. I have total control over how level the engine sits in the chassis by moving the gearbox bracket higher or lower. If the chassis sits on each corner with 4 the same stands does not mean that is now the chassis actually sits as being level. The rear feels like it should sit higher than the front.

Does one use a 90deg measurement from the chassis cross member rail where the radiators bolts onto and have a equal distance top to bottom by using the fan blade on the engine. The radiators needs to be level as the front grill/head light panel apron sits level again the radiator.

There must be some point/part in the chassis which is used as set level to work from? anyone?

Are the engine mount deemed to be the level, thus packing either the rear or front of the chassis until level is achieved at the chassis mounts?

 

[Efjay]

I don't think the engine/gearbox necessarilly needs to be "level". I think you were using the troopie gearbox brackets again, so couldn't you bolt them at the stock height to the chassis, simmilar to your previous build? Or, so the fan blades would be parallel with the face of the radiator.
Also, remember to take into account your clearances for the shifter.

 

[watrob]

I don't think the engine/gearbox necessarilly needs to be "level". I think you were using the troopie gearbox brackets again, so couldn't you bolt them at the stock height to the chassis, simmilar to your previous build? Or, so the fan blades would be parallel with the face of the radiator.
Also, remember to take into account your clearances for the shifter.

Yes, but after I installed the radiator on that build I found that the top of the fan was further away from the radiator than bottom by about 1" if the radiator was kept level. So I ended up with top of the radiator leaning backwards towards the engine fan so it sat level in the shroud. So this indicates to me that the gearbox bracket is to low, but as you can see from the photo there is not much room left on the bracket to play with.

I could cut a 1" off the top of the side brackets but then my purchase area for bolts becomes very narrow? plus this bracket is going to be 2" further back because on the 5 speed so I will have the hole you see in the chassis to contend with as well? so that cuts out cutting down the bracket.

PS. I suppose in the end I could pack between the gearbox rubber mount and the bracket?

 

[watrob]

Ok, after giving this some thought and going thru my little chest of treasures, the way to pickup this 1" is to use a 60 series gearbox rubber mount which flatter and which I have one, see photo below.

I will then weld a plate on top of the gearbox cross member so its flat so to accept the 60 series rubber mount.

 

[watrob]

The image below is of my bonnet catch, its metal (first bracket) as you can see its about 10 years old and badly rusted, although my body is fibreglass this bracket is metal has been repainted numerous times but the beach takes its toll. The second bracket I straightened so I had an idea how it was made, the third bracket in the photo the new alloy brackets I made and painted.

The second image id the fitted new bracket.

 

[chappohj47]

Nicely done looks pro

 

[watrob]

My front coil pads arrived this morning, so all I am waiting on now are my front FOX shocks.

The yellow pads are for the rear coils.

 

[chappohj47]

Hi mate just an easy one for you is this right for the clutch pedal and spring under dash

 

[watrob]

It looks ok, I did away with my spring as I use a heavy duty clutch and have no loose pedal at all, its mainly to stop loose pedal & rattle in my opinnion. I would put a rubber bung over the stop bolt adjustment tho, otherwise if your foot slips off the pedal with the spring attached its going to make a hell of a noise when it hits that bolt.

 

[chappohj47]

It got a rubber pad there just got painted that's all

 

[watrob]

ok, couldn't se it.

 

[watrob]

Finished cleaning and painting the left & right knuckles over the weekend. Put new brass bushes in the spindles. Backing plates have been sand blasted, etch primed & painted as well. Calipers have new pistons & seals, also painted and hubs cleaned and painted, ready to go.

Also have the rear calipers ready as well.

 

[Dale]

That looks great!

 

[watrob]

Unpacked the new complete left & right axles, ready for the front axle assembly install this weekend.

 

[watrob]

So I am organising all my front axle parts for the weekend and pull off the orange plastic cap of the outer axle end and there is no snap-ring on the end. These are brand new complete axles and they don't supply the end snap-ring with them. So I phoned the company (they are interstate) and they said yes we have them and we don't know why we don't put them with axles.

I mean really, brand new complete axles and they think you will use your old 40 year old snap-rings, I know you can use the old ones but for a few dollars it's not much in the scheme of things. Anyway they said they will send me a couple in the mail, so that will take about a week.

So I went to a large CV trade & supply repair center (where I bought some axles off them about 7 years ago for another chassis) and they don't have any, said most people use the old ones and they have not repaired or sold any 40, 60 or 70 series axles for a few years now. They only sell the birf and no snap-ring is supplied on the outer spline.

Checked with two 4x4 wreckers and they had no snap-rings, they only sell complete knuckles and whole axle sets. This becoming hard, I only have one snap-ring (one broke) and the other is suspect and 40 years old.

Anyway across the road from my office is a large Toyota Dealer, march in there, ask, you wouldn't have 2 of these would you?, minute later, yes, 2 in stock. Went out the back and came back 30 seconds later with 2 snap-rings, $5 each.

Spent a day looking and there were 2 just 50 feet away.

 

[watrob]

Dug out my knuckle SST ready for the weekend, going to be a busy Saturday ?

Had to order a new front knuckle nut, lock washer & claw washer kit for both left & right sides, you can see how badly worn the claw washer is. Even if I flip it over its worn on that side too, means that this set of knuckles has had a rebuild before. So everything has been replaced that has signs of wear.

Looks like the claw washer was spinning on the bearing face as if the bearing had seized?

The new nut kits arrived today - total $20.00 ($10.00 per side)

 

[Enigma]

I found this on gumtree and its close by if you need another project. Bargain

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noos...ndcruiser-fibre-glass-coil-cab-ute/1042783936

Thanks for that link! I have a rusty RHD cab and have been wondering what options are available.

Awesome build btw. That engine looks fantastic.

 

[watrob]

Ok I levelled the chassis, there is 3 level points, front.

Middle section,

and rear,

Now that I have the chassis level, I can work out the radiator level to the engine fan to the space between the fan and the radiator being even?

 

[watrob]

Rear brake backing plates, sand blasted, etch primed & painted, ready for install.