Reason For rear swaybar drop brackets?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 13, 2009
Threads
26
Messages
149
Location
Vancouver BC
I hava question for people that have dropped their rear swaybar.
I know that from reading posts, on lifted rigs, the front one needs to be dropped for clearance issue between the front drive shaft at full articulation.

My question is what is the reasoning for dropping the rear sway bar? I was under my truck today and it doesn't seem that the rear swaybar won't hit anything. The rear swaybar is behind the axle, so there should be no issue with the rear drive shaft.

I only had a quick look today, so maybe I missed something.



-Jason
 
So, you don't snap the links - where the sway bar attaches to the chassis.

If you've ever seen the rear end of the 80 full articulated you'll have an idea what those poor links have to deal with...

BTW, you lengthen the brackets or use extended links etc - you don't drop the sway bar (as such).

cheers,
george.
 
So a 2.5" lift would require a 2.5" block and bracket for the front and rear sway bars?

and what if you cant afford those yet... can you still run around town with the sway bars disconnected?

I normally just take the sway bars off my lifted pigs.
 
Ah That makes sense. I've never seen the rear of a fully articulated cruiser.

Thanks for the explanation.:cheers:

-Jason
So, you don't snap the links - where the sway bar attaches to the chassis.

If you've ever seen the rear end of the 80 full articulated you'll have an idea what those poor links have to deal with...

BTW, you lengthen the brackets or use extended links etc - you don't drop the sway bar (as such).

cheers,
george.
 
So a 2.5" lift would require a 2.5" block and bracket for the front and rear sway bars?

and what if you cant afford those yet... can you still run around town with the sway bars disconnected?

I normally just take the sway bars off my lifted pigs.


You don't have to buy blocks or brackets. I extended my links using 1/2 x 6 black pipe nipples from a plumbing store. Cut off the threaded ends, cut to the length you need then cut the links in half. Weld the extensions in place. You may have to grind out the seam inside the nipple to get it to slip over the link.
Costs couple dollars and about an hour or so.
 
You don't have to buy blocks or brackets. I extended my links using 1/2 x 6 black pipe nipples from a plumbing store. Cut off the threaded ends, cut to the length you need then cut the links in half. Weld the extensions in place. You may have to grind out the seam inside the nipple to get it to slip over the link.
Costs couple dollars and about an hour or so.

works for me.... :grinpimp:

And I just bought a new roll or wire so I can weld them up. :hillbilly:
 
You don't have to buy blocks or brackets. I extended my links using 1/2 x 6 black pipe nipples from a plumbing store. Cut off the threaded ends, cut to the length you need then cut the links in half. Weld the extensions in place. You may have to grind out the seam inside the nipple to get it to slip over the link.
Costs couple dollars and about an hour or so.

Do you have any pics you can post? Thanks!
 
Do you have any pics you can post? Thanks!



Here ya go. Front and rear respectively

.
DSC02685.jpg
DSC02686.jpg
 
Are the rear swaybar extensions needed for all lifts?
Say For a ome medium or heavy kit with the regular (non L) shocks?

I not sure if the ome shocks (N73 + N74E) are an longer than stock, and not sure if there will be any added stress to the swaybar endlinks.
 
Are the rear swaybar extensions needed for all lifts?
Say For a ome medium or heavy kit with the regular (non L) shocks?

I not sure if the ome shocks (N73 + N74E) are an longer than stock, and not sure if there will be any added stress to the swaybar endlinks.

The regular OME shocks are longer than stock. The rears probably aren't needed, but if you flex, wheel often the bushing will take more of a beating without them. The fronts depend on drive shaft clearance, when you installing the suspension, allow the axle to hang on the shocks, fully extended and check the clearance.

As Mr Baggins said they are easy to extend, my pix of the later type;

IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - L shocks on a 2.5"
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom