Rear wiper pushed down - ABS light came on?

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Aug 30, 2020
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My wife opened the rear tailgate inside our garage and somehow the rear wiper blade was pushed down a bit - she pushed it back and it works fine. But as a result the ABS light came on and locked the car in drive. Any idea how to "reset" this or turn it off? Did the truck somehow think it was in a rear end collision and that triggered the light? The fuse is fine. Not sure what else to do?
 
Nothing in that mechanism tied to ABS or any other system, sounds like separate issues.
For the past few weeks the indicator that a bulb is out has been coming on and then going off randomly. Is there some other light or something that might have been triggered when the rear hit the top of the garage to cause the ABS light to come on? In the past this has only ever come on when the fuse was bad.
 
For the past few weeks the indicator that a bulb is out has been coming on and then going off randomly. Is there some other light or something that might have been triggered when the rear hit the top of the garage to cause the ABS light to come on? In the past this has only ever come on when the fuse was bad.
I don't think so. I've heard of some issues relating to brake lights being out some times but can't remember exactly what folks have linked that too.

Stand behind the vehicle and have someone work the lights and signals to make sure it all works and check that off the list .

But yeah, I don't see how the ABS light can be related to your recent trunk experience.
 
I don't think so. I've heard of some issues relating to brake lights being out some times but can't remember exactly what folks have linked that too.

Stand behind the vehicle and have someone work the lights and signals to make sure it all works and check that off the list .

But yeah, I don't see how the ABS light can be related to your recent trunk experience.
I have done this each time the light came on but everything worked.
There is some correlation between the rear part of the back getting hit and the light - it happened almost simultaneously. I suppose it could be a coincidence but would be a really strange one re: timing.
 
I have done this each time the light came on but everything worked.
There is some correlation between the rear part of the back getting hit and the light - it happened almost simultaneously. I suppose it could be a coincidence but would be a really strange one re: timing.
Good point. Well I'm out of ideas lol.... I would maybe disconnect battery and reset everything to see if it comes back.
>> Is it just ABS light, no TRAC, VSC, or BRAKE light?
>> Can you go to auto parts store and have the ABS code read?

Here are some relevant threads for ABS light and diagnosing some issues that may have some info to help


 
Codes being thrown:
1223 - fault in ABS control system
1246 - fault in master cylinder pressure sensor
1289 - VGRS fault
1340 - Open circuit in center diff signal
 
Codes being thrown:
1223 - fault in ABS control system
1246 - fault in master cylinder pressure sensor
1289 - VGRS fault
1340 - Open circuit in center diff signal
I'm not the most experienced in this section so I suspect not much useful information from me.

Earlier I was thinking about a recent forum where someone found that their trailer wiring was all corroded and that caused some issues. I don't think it relates to your problem though

So weird, so you've never had an ABS light on? Then the trunk hatch / wiper blade contacts something ( probably not all that hard ) and all the sudden you throw these codes? That's strange.

Have you tried the ol' turn it off and back on again ? Disconnect battery and let it sit then re-connect? IDK, just trying to think of ideas
 
I'm not the most experienced in this section so I suspect not much useful information from me.

Earlier I was thinking about a recent forum where someone found that their trailer wiring was all corroded and that caused some issues. I don't think it relates to your problem though

So weird, so you've never had an ABS light on? Then the trunk hatch / wiper blade contacts something ( probably not all that hard ) and all the sudden you throw these codes? That's strange.

Have you tried the ol' turn it off and back on again ? Disconnect battery and let it sit then re-connect? IDK, just trying to think of ideas
We had the light come on awhile ago but it was fixed with a new fuse. Nothing since then.
 
So there's more to the story, it's not just the wiper arm, there's been other issues ongoing. I'd say you have an electrical fault in the ABS system that's more than replacing a fuse.
The ABS light came on in late July before we drove cross country. It was fixed with a fuse and never returned. We have put on about 7,000 miles since then - just passed 300K this week actually. Certainly could be unrelated but timing is odd.

Also, just looked at the battery - this potentially an issue? This battery was new and installed in late May.

image0.jpeg
 
The ABS light came on in late July before we drove cross country. It was fixed with a fuse and never returned. We have put on about 7,000 miles since then - just passed 300K this week actually. Certainly could be unrelated but timing is odd.

Also, just looked at the battery - this potentially an issue? This battery was new and installed in late May.

View attachment 3771100
Is that corrosion or did you put some sort of protective spray on there? Doesn't look ideal, do you have the ability to remove the connectors and clean everything up? Or better yet go back to where you got it from and ask them to warranty and install another since it's less than 1 year.... Maybe the holder is tightened down to much and the battery lid cracked, some corrosion / signs of fluid around the holders isn't normal

Probably not related to the current issue but you never know.
 
Is that corrosion or did you put some sort of protective spray on there? Doesn't look ideal, do you have the ability to remove the connectors and clean everything up? Or better yet go back to where you got it from and ask them to warranty and install another since it's less than 1 year.... Maybe the holder is tightened down to much and the battery lid cracked, some corrosion / signs of fluid around the holders isn't normal

Probably not related to the current issue but you never know.
I did not spray anything on it - it is from the battery. Am going to get a new one. Last time when they put this new battery in and threw my steering wheel all out of whack so I am nervous.
 
I did not spray anything on it - it is from the battery. Am going to get a new one. Last time when they put this new battery in and threw my steering wheel all out of whack so I am nervous.
I lack experience with the electronic steering , but there is a process to reset / re-center it. I think you need techstream or something to connect to.

Or maybe there is a procedure in your owners manual that explains what to do when replacing battery to not affect the steering?

I did some searching on the mud, one of the forums mentioned this
" You can make this adjustment using Techstream to recenter the wheel, you could also disconnect the battery long enough for the VGRS system to recalibrate."
 
"Fall down a well, eyes go cross-eyed. Kicked by a mule, eyes go straight. I don't know" - Cousin Eddie
 
"Fall down a well, eyes go cross-eyed. Kicked by a mule, eyes go straight. I don't know" - Cousin Eddie
Oh boy, now I need to watch these again. That sure does sum up a lot of issues in life doesn't it?

European was my least favorite but the other three are certified classics in my mind

s***ters Full
 
Codes being thrown:
1223 - fault in ABS control system
1246 - fault in master cylinder pressure sensor
1289 - VGRS fault
1340 - Open circuit in center diff signal
I have just a little bit of experience with some of the fault codes you mentioned as I am currently tackling some ABS issues and codes myself. Here are some of my findings from doing extensive searches on the forum, FB groups and talking to a few more experienced folks.

C1223 comes on with any kind of ABS system malfunction so probably a result of C1246 and or VGRS.
C1340 is a ghost code that comes on for whatever reason but probably isn't specific or relevant to the other codes.

Have you replaced any steering components lately like the steering rack, done suspension upgrades, etc? I would recommend starting with a zero point calibration and yaw sensor calib. This can be done in Techstream with a Mac or Windows PC using a $35 cable and instructions from the link below:

Techstream in 5 Minutes

You can also do it using the primitive way of shoving paperclips into the OBD2 ports but I don't really like the idea of that. There are some instructions on how to do it floating around here on the forum if you want to look up that method. At least with Techstream you can monitor the data points and confirm if the calibration was done successfully.

Has your brake booster been replaced or serviced recently? It might possibly be on its way out. C1246 is a concerning code.
 
I would recommend starting with a zero point calibration and yaw sensor calib. This can be done in Techstream with a Mac or Windows PC using a $35 cable and instructions from the link below:
Ah, zero point calibration is the term I was trying to remember.... ^^ This advice seems spot on and relates to the history being provided by the OP. Battery was changed, had issues with steering, and now abs light.

Maybe OP just needs to calibrate steering?
 
Ah, zero point calibration is the term I was trying to remember.... ^^ This advice seems spot on and relates to the history being provided by the OP. Battery was changed, had issues with steering, and now abs light.

Maybe OP just needs to calibrate steering?
I don't know why you would get a code for "Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor", if it was something as simple as a steering wheel sensor calibration but I have been told by people that rebuild the ABS motors and other posts on here that it can cause those codes.
 
RESOLVED:
I changed the fuse even though it was not faulty - maybe it was just getting weak and all the lights went off. Like it never happened.
Went to Autozone and got a free replacement battery - this time installed with zero issues.

What will happen going forward? Who knows. But so far she is running just as before - and as I mentioned above, we crossed 300,000 miles over the weekend!
 

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