one question: is there any benefit to adding a little length for those like me whom only are running a 2 inch OME lift and 33's?..... or should I just measure the stock and recreate that length?
Rear upper control arm upgrade
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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The reason for changing the length is to adjust your pinion angle or make 37's fit or both
right I know that with 35's for example, a bit of a longer length helps to rotate the pinion, my question is if any deviation from stock is beneficial with a 2 inch lift? It would be easy to make them a tad bit longer if it helps correct a small lift, but again not sure if this is necesary.
Nice job Phil. Glad to see the arms have been given a new life.
I seriously need to buy a welder and learn how to weld.
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Guppie - Ive got a 2.5" and I need to get my weight correct on the back end, but I think my pinion angle will still need adjusted some. I'm a fan of getting the shafts to be as inline as possible.
Using LCP's sleeving and adding the appropriate length is very effective and inexpensive Vs. Adjusters...And will give you the same results. The downside would be if your wright distribution on the rear axle changes significantly to effect the pinion angle - Then you have to start over and that's where adjustable arms would be a win...
Using LCP's sleeving and adding the appropriate length is very effective and inexpensive Vs. Adjusters...And will give you the same results. The downside would be if your wright distribution on the rear axle changes significantly to effect the pinion angle - Then you have to start over and that's where adjustable arms would be a win...
anyone considering those Febest bushings should do some research on reviews posted on line. it would seem you get what you pay for.
If you were to do this on your upper and lower without adjusters with say a 3 to 4 inch lift. Do you think the pinion angle would need to be adjusted in anyway over time? This mod is awesome just hard to reverse if needed. Also anyone who has some expertise on how to measure the length to get your pinion to the right angle would be awesome.
It is easy enough to reverse, just find someone selling a used set in the classifieds.
For the lowers, 1.25 schedule 40 pipe is a near perfect fit also:
For the lowers, 1.25 schedule 40 pipe is a near perfect fit also:
any examples? I searched google but only came up with positive reviews?????
For the lowers....how the heck you calculate how much longer to make them? Really need to do this on my lower arms as one is bent. These things get destroyed in no time on the rocks.
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I would support the pinion with a floor jack and remove the lower or upper arms depending on what direction you need to go.
Use the floor jack to get the pinion where you want it and measure center to center for the overall arm length.
Make a jig with bolts welded to a piece of scrap flat bar and then go to town. This would ensure that each arm would be the same length exactly.
...via IH8MUD app
Use the floor jack to get the pinion where you want it and measure center to center for the overall arm length.
Make a jig with bolts welded to a piece of scrap flat bar and then go to town. This would ensure that each arm would be the same length exactly.
...via IH8MUD app
awesome build.. likes that
Good info here. Not many worthwhile modifications that you can do on the cheap (and easy). I get the $10 an hour comment, but regardless arguing you should pay for this kind of mod is akin to arguing you should have someone else change your oil.
Just wanted to resurrect this thread.
I had installed some J springs with a 10mm in the rear (it’s a go big or go home attitude now and days) and developed a vibration in the rear. I cut about 1/2 inch off the upper control arm(new measurement is 14 3/8 inch hole to hole, shortest measurement ) and retubed it to get the pinion straightened out and no more vibe in the rear, the front is another story.
I had installed some J springs with a 10mm in the rear (it’s a go big or go home attitude now and days) and developed a vibration in the rear. I cut about 1/2 inch off the upper control arm(new measurement is 14 3/8 inch hole to hole, shortest measurement ) and retubed it to get the pinion straightened out and no more vibe in the rear, the front is another story.
Just wanted to resurrect this thread.
I had installed some J springs with a 10mm in the rear (it’s a go big or go home attitude now and days) and developed a vibration in the rear. I cut about 1/2 inch off the upper control arm(new measurement is 14 3/8 inch hole to hole, shortest measurement ) and retubed it to get the pinion straightened out and no more vibe in the rear, the front is another story.
I had installed some J springs with a 10mm in the rear (it’s a go big or go home attitude now and days) and developed a vibration in the rear. I cut about 1/2 inch off the upper control arm(new measurement is 14 3/8 inch hole to hole, shortest measurement ) and retubed it to get the pinion straightened out and no more vibe in the rear, the front is another story.
Does anyone know if an adjustable UCA are short enough to rotate the pinion angle back to 0* on a 6” lift? Per slee’s website they sell adjustable UCA but I saw a post that the arms compressed arms are the same length as stock. This could be a bad post though. The metal tech UCA are about $100 cheaper then Slee. Does anyone have the metal tech UCA with a 6” lift and stock driveline. I am hoping to use the cheapest I can purchase.
Any safety issue with using a jack to adjust pinion with the uppers out? I need to lengthen my uppers and was going to use this method, but was cautioned that with only the shocks holding the axle in place with the UCA removed it may continue to rotate and throw the coils. Have you tried this method? I was going to measure ride height and then remove coils then jack the frame back to ride height then remove UCAs then jack pinion to correct angle then measure...
with a lift, wouldn't you want to increase and not decease the length of the uppers to correct the pinion angle?