Rear Suspension Swap Gone Horribly Wrong....

[car-car]

So, I went to swap out the rear suspension today and what should have just taken an hour or two will be continued tomorrow for day two. I had read of the potential issues with broken shock bolts, especially with the rear shock mounts, and I was prepared for that possibility. I started soaking all of the bolts with PB Blaster last week, and again yesterday, in preparation for today's install. Slee's instructions in hand, I started loosening up the shock bolts, starting on the PS. Top two bolts, not a problem. Tried to go easy on the bottom bolt, but it snapped right away. Not the end of the world, I know this is somewhat common. Break out the drill and start drilling it out, right on target.

And then things turned ugly....

I probably should have drilled it out a little bit further and then tapped it, but instead I turned to the "hardened steel" extractor set from Sears that is supposed to remedy this very issue. Yeah, that didn't really go according to plan. I snapped the extractor in the drilled out hole, and it was jammed in there good. I was hoping to knock it loose so that I could pull it out, but it was wedged in there so good that it wasn't coming out. Because the extractor was hardened steel, there was no drilling it out with what I had. After muttering many select words that I won't repeat here (and luckily no one was around, because it would have appeared that I had a severe case of Tourette's), I quickly read online that the only chance I had of drilling through this was with a carbide bit. I went back to Sears to voice my displeasure with their product and figure out a way to proceed, and they were less than helpful. They wouldn't replace the broken tool, and the "tool dept clerk" seemed to know nothing about tools. When I asked if there was anyone around that knew about tools, he said there wasn't. Dumbfounded, I had make myself walk away before my next Tourette's episode.

I tried a couple shops looking for a carbide bit, but could only find carbide dremel bits. I ended going through three of the bits, and got about 7/8 of the way removing the broken extractor. Hopefully, I will end up getting the last of the hardened steel extractor out tomorrow when I get home from work. And then I will have to see what kind of tap I can run through it and either heli-coil it or find a bolt that will match so that I can get the shock secured on the bottom mount.

And then I can proceed to the DS and do it all again. Hopefully with a little less drama.

Anyways, thanks for letting me rant. Needed to get that off my chest. Wish me luck tomorrow.

 

[Rwhat]

Use a punch or small chisel to shatter the extactor. They are hardended steel however they are brittle. Those craftsman extractors suck. Out of the set of 5 I have I only have 2.5 left.

What I always tell people is to use a propane torch to heat up the bolts prior to removal.

 

[baja1d]

Issue #1- Sears. I hate that store & find it hard to believe that they're still in business! If it wasn't for their "service department" (fixing their junk) i don't think they would be. In regards to broken taps, I've had good luck welding a bolt onto the broken tap so that i can "righty tighty" the thing out. I've broken so many that I now drill a bigger hole initially (1/8-1/4 deep) just to clear a little metal in anticipation of breaking a tap. Then I step the "taps" drill bit down to a smaller size. This gives me a little room for welding the additional bolt onto the tap and not the jammed bolt. Generally after adding all this heat (welding) & alot of choice words; the bolt generally comes right out with the next tap. All of it is a pain in the ass & really pisses me off every time. I feel your pain!!!

 

[MtMan]

Those craftsman extractors suck. Out of the set of 5 I have I only have 2.5 left.

Ditto.

 

[specialk396]

Heat is a better rust-breaker than anything, when it comes to suspension bits or fused or stuck studs in general. Extractors and left handed drill bits seem to break more than they are useful in my experience.

 

[Slabsides45]

I feel your pain!

Had my no. 6 valve cover bolt break off on me, and that $%^& Sears "extractor" was only good for reaming out a bigger hole.

My final answer? Believe it or not, a Dremel with a hardened burr, tore up enough of the top of the broken bolt that it loosened and I backed it out. Profanities optional....

 

[Douglas S]

I was surprised when I did my lift. Didn't break a single bolt, the whole process took maybe three hours.

 

[neal0124]

My truck was a California car its whole life so there is very little rust. I did my suspension before I read anything about the infamous lower rear shock bolt. I put a ratchet on it with a cheater pipe and then put a floor jack under the end of the cheater. I slowly raised the jack until the bolt turned, it didn't take much. I sprayed liquid wrench on the bolts for a few days before I did the swap. After I pulled the bolts out I realized that none of that oil got anywhere near the threads. When I installed the new shocks I put a generous amount of anti-seize on all the bolts.

My front shocks were the biggest pain in the butt. I had to cut all four front shock studs, 3 of them were no big deal. The one under the master cylinder was the most difficult.

 

[car-car]

Made a little progress today when I got home from work. Picked up another new dremel carbide blade and finished carving out the rest of extractor. Not pretty, but I saw another member here that ended up welding in a stud for the shock retainer as his solution. I figured that might be way to go for me since I was leary how the tap might not play nicely with hardened steel in there and lead to more problems. I figured it needs to be functional, not pretty.

Before I went to visit a buddy with a welder, I figured I should do the DS in case of complications and might save an extra trip to get torch work done. It didn't matter how careful or how nicely I tried talking to the bolt on the DS lower shock mount, it snapped as well. A perfect 2-for-2. Back out with the drill, no extractors for the sequel. This time, I just drilled it out and tapped it. Much better this go around. I ran out of daylight as I was wrapping up the install on the DS, so I will need to employ the help of a friend with a welder tomorrow evening so that I can wrap up this quick and painless project.

Can't wait to start in on the front suspension....

 

[dagwood85]

Boy, you sure know how to get a guy all hot and bothered to do this to his rig. But of course, I'll be the exception and I'll have no problems when I do mine. LOL

 

[chairborne]

My truck was a California car its whole life so there is very little rust. I did my suspension before I read anything about the infamous lower rear shock bolt. I put a ratchet on it with a cheater pipe and then put a floor jack under the end of the cheater. I slowly raised the jack until the bolt turned, it didn't take much. I sprayed liquid wrench on the bolts for a few days before I did the swap. After I pulled the bolts out I realized that none of that oil got anywhere near the threads. When I installed the new shocks I put a generous amount of anti-seize on all the bolts.

My front shocks were the biggest pain in the butt. I had to cut all four front shock studs, 3 of them were no big deal. The one under the master cylinder was the most difficult.

I've had the same experience in the past. I use a better penetrating oil now (PB blaster) and wire brush all the dirt and crud out from around the bolt heads as well. Even with all that there is no guarantee it will penetrate. A MAPP torch is a lifesaver sometimes though, it'll free a lot of bolts that penetrating spray won't.

 

[harrydunn]

I had the same issue as did my brother on his LX. The Sears extractor broke and just made things must worse. I finally was able to drill it out with a Dremel tungsten bit and simply welded a new bolt (sans the head) in the remaining cavity. Has held up well.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/553881-snapped-lower-shock-mount-bolt.html

 

[car-car]

I had the same issue as did my brother on his LX. The Sears extractor broke and just made things must worse. I finally was able to drill it out with a Dremel tungsten bit and simply welded a new bolt (sans the head) in the remaining cavity. Has held up well.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/553881-snapped-lower-shock-mount-bolt.html

Yes, your post is what gave me the idea to just weld in a stud for the shock retainer. Thank you for posting that up.

 

[LINUS]

I recently went through a hair-pulling excercise at Sears listening to one of the tool dept employees as he told me how the Craftsman line in its' totality has been outsourced to the point that no new Craftsman tool is worth buying - you get the warrenty, but you may replace a certain item 27 times in the life of it - and as for tool storage the only boxes worth buying are the highest level they sell, as all the others are now made of such thin gauge steel it's a wonder they make it to the stores undamaged.

Sad, but now I'm turning to Snap-on & Matco & chasing the trucks if I break something. We had a good run, but new Craftsman now is worthless - it's just higher priced Harbor Freight stuff.

 

[jlg32281]

My lift took me 4 days and it's a southern Texas truck with minimal rust.

 

[Douglas S]

My lift took me 4 days and it's a southern Texas truck with minimal rust.

What took so long to do? Are you talking about more than a basic spring/shock swap?

 

[khoi911]

Heat is a better rust-breaker than anything, when it comes to suspension bits or fused or stuck studs in general. Extractors and left handed drill bits seem to break more than they are useful in my experience.

^^ what he said. PB blaster does not penetrate enough. Take a torch to it. I no longer tackle any bolt on my 80 without a torch.

 

[rhyary]

I recently went through a hair-pulling excercise at Sears listening to one of the tool dept employees as he told me how the Craftsman line in its' totality has been outsourced to the point that no new Craftsman tool is worth buying - you get the warrenty, but you may replace a certain item 27 times in the life of it - and as for tool storage the only boxes worth buying are the highest level they sell, as all the others are now made of such thin gauge steel it's a wonder they make it to the stores undamaged.

Sad, but now I'm turning to Snap-on & Matco & chasing the trucks if I break something. We had a good run, but new Craftsman now is worthless - it's just higher priced Harbor Freight stuff.

I second that. I started to buy tools from NAPA and Snap On as well.

 

[hawaiicruz]

X4 on the torch, another trick that has worked for me in the past is to actually apply some tightening force to the fastener just slightly before trying to loosen

 

[car-car]

Victory! Employed the help of a neighbor with a welder and welded in a stud as an alternative. Shock installed and everything buttoned up.

Hopefully the front will be a little less eventful.....