Rear Stear, What do I need to know? (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 29, 2005
Threads
23
Messages
430
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Website
www.cnstires.com
I was going to post this as a reply, but thought that I would get more responces if I posted it as a new topic. And if anyone else had questions, they might find them answered in this thread.


Ive alwasy wondered about going this route myself, the ability to turn sharper, tighter, and quicker. As well as it looks cool, has a great bling factor, and you dont see it everyday. But I always thought that it would be a weaker setup compaired to just a straight axle. because of all the additional parts, and that it wasent solid, so you have more exposed parts to be able to get damaged.( Rotating or not.)

What Im looking for is the pros and cons of going rear stear, as well as all the options that you can combine them with. to make them stronger, more efficent, user friendly, and/or just more expensive.

Before one decides to go Rear-Steer, what does one need to understand what they are getting them selves into? Is this an easy swap? can you do this at home? or should you have this done at a shop where they do many conversions? Is it safe for the road? If not, can it be made safe for the road? or should one keep it for off road use only? How much is one looking to spend on a mod. such as this?

So you have decided to go with a Rear-Steer setup. Ok, well you cant just bolt it up in there and go like a set of tires or a new transfercase. How do you get the rear axle to steer? Also, do you have it setup to steer with the front, opposite of the front or can you add a switch and manafold to vary the direction the tires turn. Flip a switch up to go one way, down for the other? Can the stearing be locked out hydraulicly or another way? so the rear tires become centered once again allowing you to utilise only the front stearing?

After you decide which way to turn, Which type of equipment is right for you to use? Full hydraulic, single ram, double ram, ram assist?
And most importantly, how do you get the Hydraulics to the back of your vehicle inorder to provide the flow that you need to turn your back wheels?

How do I get my rear-steer to ... Steer. Well, As with our front stearing, if you want to turn easier you have to have a stearing pump (or a small hydraulic pump) to help assist in steering. But will a pump so small made for only the front axle (which does a very good job) at it) and will very slowly run a hydraulic winch when tee'd in and not using the stearing.. be able to run two sets of axles at the same time? and provide the nessary flow all the way back to the rear axles. or do we need to look at going with a stand alone Hydraulic pump. If thats the case.. What type of pump is the best choice to use?

From what I know about pumps, theres only four options that produce flow. You have Gear pumps, Piston pumps, Vane pumps and Lobe driven pumps. from there, you can go with a PTO driven pump from your transmission if avi. a belt driven pump from your engine or an electric pump where you can setup almost anywhere. then you have to decide which type suits your needs best, and from which location you want to run yours from.

Alot of people say that its not safe to run full hydro on the streets because of how sharp you can turn and possibly flip your vehicle, or worse yet cause an accident. But isint there a way to controll the flow if your running a standalone hydraulic system? I belive the Vane pump allows for adjustment of flow, Cant you just turn down the flow untill you get the desired resistance to allow you to turn your wheels with out flipping end over end when you sneeze? same with the electric motor, get a 2 or 3 speed HD motor to controll your flow, or add a bypass back to tank, and open the bypass valve untill you have only enough fluid power to turn the wheels slowly.


Well, i seemed to have typed more than I thought... sorry its so long.
I know I have not questioned every detail, but I think I would end up writing a book about it if I went that far. and there would be too many un-answered questions. I figured for right now I have covered the basics. What is needed to get started. after we figure this out, we can get more detailed.

Im looking for opinions, thoughts, absolutes, your setups, questions and more. Anything to help shead more light to this subject.


Thanks
-Ron
 
Did you really just ask if manual rear steering is a good idea??

Fundamentally, if you do not have a buggy, you can't do rear steer. There is just too much sheetmetal and frame in the back to make a steering axle work.


Basically it is not good for the street (but can be okay) and you use a hydraulic ram to control the steering. It can be done at your home if you have excellent fab skills/know how to set up a linked suspension..

Get a good idea of full hydraulic front steering and then go from there, it is not much different.
 
Did you really just ask if manual rear steering is a good idea??


..umm.. i dont think I did..couldent find where i might have said that..
If so.. than no.. manual stearing sucks, front or rear.
 
Fundamentally, if you do not have a buggy, you can't do rear steer. There is just too much sheetmetal and frame in the back to make a steering axle work.

Get a good idea of full hydraulic front steering and then go from there, it is not much different.

x2.

There is most certainly a strength issue - why do you think I'm using Rockwells? If you're talking about doing this with your 80, I wouldn't use anything less than rockwells or Mog 406's, unless you're going to go $$$$ on a Dana 60.
 
Ill be using Portal-teks axles. 300m shafts, 35 spline all around. and im going at least 2 inches longer than stock axle length for added stability. (1 inch on each side)
 
Won't work unless you cut the rear off or get one HELL of a lift..

Like, the body/frame sits above the top of the tires. Way above. Think monster truck..
 
Won't work unless you cut the rear off or get one HELL of a lift..

Like, the body/frame sits above the top of the tires. Way above. Think monster truck..

Unless he limits the steering throw a whole bunch. I think the frame will get in the way before you gain a useful (compared to the cost) amount of rear steer. Sheet metal can be removed, the frame can't.
 
Ill be using Portal-teks axles. 300m shafts, 35 spline all around. and im going at least 2 inches longer than stock axle length for added stability. (1 inch on each side)

since your going with portal teks you should buy my double beadlocks :flipoff2:
 
Well, I do have a 6" suspension lift, a 3" body lift, and the portals are gonna put me up another 5" to give me what... 14" of lift. + the larger tires from 37"- to a min. of 44" with the 20" rim..

I agree with the frame.. I went outside to look. not as much clearence as the front to turn.. but if I add a few more inches to each side of the axle... Kinda like a trophey truck, ill have the stability for the 15" of lift, and if possible, the rear stear to allow me to turn as if I was stock.

hmmm are them dbl beadlocks 20"???
 
Could you tell us just what you hope to do with this rig when it is completed:confused:

Drive it everywhere. :flipoff2:

Its going to be my all purpose vehicle. Go anywhere and everywhere. Keep it low maintance, and what ever breaks, I have to beable to fix it where ever it is. .. as far up north as I can go.. and at least as far south as panama..

Though about the rear steer.. im just trying to figure out if it would be worth it.. would it be utilizable in all conditions. or would it hinder me when its least needed? I dont think I am looking for a full lock to lock on the rear.. just something to cut a few feet out of the turns, theres always them spots where you wish you could turn about a tires width closer so your not hanging off the leadge.
 
Thats why im going to streach out the track. With at least 2 inches wider than stock axles and 17" of tire width,(compaired to 12.5) that should widen me out enough. In reality.. Im only going to be about an extra 3" higher than Tiredirons lift with volvo portals and tires <---(edited)..... and he has his tires tucked in a lot further than I do. Looks like its always going to tip. but havent heard it yet.
p2a.jpg
p2.jpg
 
Last edited:
So Already I have a wider track because of the back spacing, and only about 3" higher because of a body lift. Now add an inch or two to each side of axle, and then extra rubber,.. and I dont think it looks or sounds too bad.
 
So he has a 6" suspension lift with those axles as well?
 
Drive it everywhere. :flipoff2:

Its going to be my all purpose vehicle. Go anywhere and everywhere. Keep it low maintance, and what ever breaks, I have to beable to fix it where ever it is. .. as far up north as I can go.. and at least as far south as panama..

Muy bien !!!!

That's a nice plan dude .. you are always welcome here :D

Diesel Rules !
 
So he has a 6" suspension lift with those axles as well?

No, but he's also not going to be running 46+ inch tires to fill that extra gap. and then another 5 inches of tire width over what you see now.


And even at the worst.. I can always swap or cut the springs 2 inches or so, but I dont think im going to need to do that.
 
then stop asking questions and do it..

:D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom