REAR SHOCK UPPER NUTS: Anyone use a nut splitter?

[RobRed]

You can PB blast the top nut all day with out drilling a hole in the floor.

Cutting the floor in my opinion is a last resort. More than a few iH8MUD mechanics wont work on something unless they can cut, torch, drill or weld it.

 

[pfran42]

Cutting holes in your cargo area floor in order to get your shocks out is the equivalent of being the backup quarterback (that didn't take a snap) on the team that wins the Super Bowl. Sure, you got a nice ring and you can call yourself a world champion, but you didn't really "earn" it.

 

[re_guderian]

except there's already other holes back there anyway. more time for driving!

 

[Brock]

stubby open ended wrench....and some creative maneuvering and you can get them without cutting. Albeit mine was up on shop lift so made it much easier to access the area from underneath. Mine were not rusted or anything...they are just pain in ass to get. LOL

 

[RobRed]

That Flex Head that both pfran and I used is the perfect weapon... it's long enough to get a sufficient amount of torque on and the ratchet/flex head makes it easy to position and unfasten.

 

[no-pistons]

I always find it funny when bad advice is given on car forums. Nothing personal to whoever suggested it, but I think its really bad advice to cut holes in the floor. Actually, I think it would have took me longer to drill holes in my rig than it did to just unbolt the shocks.

It reminds me of another case in a Subaru WRX forum where some guy did a DIY write up on how to install lowering springs. Well the guy suggested holding the shock shaft with locking pliers to keep it from moving while you loosen the top strut nut. Well many people did what he suggested, and shortly after many were complaining about leaking and blown struts.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

More than a few iH8MUD mechanics wont work on something unless they can cut, torch, drill or weld it.

Haha. Very True. I've got a set of gearwrench flex wrenches somewhere any. I'll try that first.

 

[2000UZJ]

Here are my tools. Takes me a hair under 45 minutes to swap shocks out. It's a horrible location but . I would never cut a hole unless my truck sat in the ocean for a year and corroded away.

 

[re_guderian]

I'm not offended by anyone's opinion as to the "bad advice" of drilling the floor for access to one of the most commonly-encountered maintenaince/repair jobs that is widely viewed as a PITA. I just think a little perspective and objectivity is in order about what is and is not being suggested. This is the same forum where folks actively advocate cutting frame members for bumper installs, cutting holes in fenders for a snorkel, drilling holes in the roof for antenna mounts, welding metal to the frame for sliders, etc. etc. Body panels all have strategically place holes from the factory already to make install and repair easier/possible (could you imagine the cost of a door lock actuator replacement without some holes in the door panel?) So, I'm not advocating drilling random holes in your body for dubious purposes (as I mentioned there are already other holes in the rear floor) and the shock location are pretty well protected from the elements. Neither will this weaken or adversely affect your cruiser in any measurable way. Anyway, I'm certainly am not advocating it as the only way, or even the best way, but it DOES make shock install, removal, swapping, properly torquing, and quieting squeaky bushings an easy job, rather than a detestable chore. If you've gone 100K on the stock shocks, and only want to replace them once, and never plan on doing it again, then it most definitely isn't the best thing for you. If your truck is rust free and the shock bolt/thread in great condition, then it also isn't the #1 option. Yet it certainly isn't "bad advice" just because it involved a drill, it's just another option. All in all, drilling "these two specific" holes is signifcantly less risky to the overall safety, longevity, performance, and functionality of your Cruiser than other common mods like say, suspension lifts, aftermarket bumpers, body lifts, improper roof-rack removal, etc. etc. When taken in context, I've not found a reason why this is "bad", and I've weighed the pro's and con's, and the only "con" I've found is there are two MORE holes in my floor than there were before and I don't see any practical realized downside to that. As always, YMMV.



I've also drilled holes in my tailgate that weren't there berfore to enable rear-view camera installation, was that "bad advice"? No way.

 

[no-pistons]

You are right, it's really not as bad as I made it sound. My words, "bad advice" were a bit harsh and I appoligize for that, what I meant is I do not like advice like this because it is not the proper way to do the job. Which is fact, since drilling holes is not in the FSM regarding shock replacement. I'm just not a fan of causing permanent damage for something as simple as a shock replacement.

 

[re_guderian]

You are right, it's really not as bad as I made it sound. My words, "bad advice" were a bit harsh and I appoligize for that, what I meant is I do not like advice like this because it is not the proper way to do the job. Which is fact, since drilling holes is not in the FSM regarding shock replacement. I'm just not a fan of causing permanent damage for something as simple as a shock replacement.

fair 'nuf (though I consider it a permanent improvement...)

 

[no-pistons]

:though I consider it a permanent improvement...)[/COLOR][/SIZE]

LOL. Good one!

 

[RobRed]

I'm trying to plug and fill holes not add more

 

[lexi4darin]

It's not good advice unless there's an extraneous situation. If there isn't, and we all assume for 95% of the unsaid cases there isn't, it's bad advice when it comes w/o composition. It's more appropriately an "alternative" method.

Bought a LC/LX that sat at the bottom of a lake for years, you live in the rust belt, something was bent in a way that the maintenance isn't possible, or you adjust your shocks every 3 months. Those are the examples one should suggest the alternative, yet less appropriate, method of drilling holes.

Without circumstances requiring it, there's no reason to do it; and there's a perfectly good/proper method outlined that is literally just as easy. Really, RobRed and I swapped his rear shocks in 30-45 minutes. Getting the drill out, moving carpet, taking measurements, probably wouldn't have been any faster. And next year if they need service, taking out the drawers, the interior, etc, to reach holes already drilled ... meh, not a big advantage.

 

[3D FJ]

I had the intent of removing the rear shocks the conventional way. Once I got under my truck, i was glad that i had the option of cutting a hole in the body. For some people, just the thought of cutting a hole is non-sense. For me, it was the last resort. Now mind you, i had to contend with AHC shocks so if you're not familiar, at the top of the shock there is a T-fitting where the ahc fluid enters the shock. That has to be removed first, then you can get to the shock bolt. I found that getting the fitting off the shock was difficult itself (two additional bolts per shock). Space wasn't much of an issue per se, it was the ability to get enough force/torque to remove the bolts. That was the problem. Rather than round the nut, i decided to cut the hole in the body and go from there. I wound up using an impact wrench to remove the shock bolt. I was already starting to bust up my knuckles and getting very frustrated. Heck. What was another two holes in the body of the truck? I already had a gigantic hole from my snorkel. This hole was unseen and could be very easily plugged. Go with what works for you.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Drilling is the smart and easy way to remove rear shocks from a 100.

 

[RobRed]

Drilling is the smart and easy way to remove rear shocks from a 100.

Phil has spoken.... Everyone relax

 

[CDN80eh?]

Usually do most of my own repairs. Took mine to a Toyota dealer in a part of town that dosen't sell many, if any, Land Cruisers. Service guy said they would change the back shocks for $100.00.(I furnished the shocks)

Went to pick it up and he was mad as hell and said he should charge me three times what he quoted.
It was hard to keep a straight face after reading everything here about changing them.

Did they drill them out? If so, did they or should they tell you that they drilled them out....?

 

[super90]

I used a flex-head GearWrench (22mm ...IIRC) and had the rear shocks out in about five minutes. Had soaked the nuts in PB Blaster a few days before. I guess if you are from the rust belt, you might have a more difficult time, but that was not my experience at all.

 

[RobRed]

I used a flex-head GearWrench (22mm ...IIRC) and had the rear shocks out in about five minutes. Had soaked the nuts in PB Blaster a few days before. I guess if you are from the rust belt, you might have a more difficult time, but that was not my experience at all.

Another victory for the 22mm Gearwrench flexhead. You're probably all broken up becuase you couldn't torch, melt, sand, drill or weld to remove you rear shocks.