There's a right way and there's everything else.
REAR SHOCK UPPER NUTS: Anyone use a nut splitter?
- Thread starter gopriest31
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Another victory for the 22mm Gearwrench flexhead. You're probably all broken up becuase you couldn't torch, melt, sand, drill or weld to remove you rear shocks.
Exactly! After reading all these threads about everyone's problems, it was really anti-climactic. It took more time to find the 22mm GearWrench than to change the socks !!
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re_guderian
SILVER Star
"First shalt thou take out the Holy Old Shock. Then shalt thou torque the Holy Upper Nut of the New Shock to fifty-one ft-lbf, no more, no less. Fifty-one shall be the number thou shalt toque to, and the number of the torquing shall be fifty-one. Fifty-two shalt thou not torque, neither torque thou fifty, excepting that thou then proceed to fifty-one. Fifty-three is right out. Once the number fifty-one, being the fifty-first number, be reached, then lobbest thou thy Holy Shock of Antioch towards thy foe, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it."
I just finished replacing the OEM struts with Bilstein HDs and swapping the rusty OEM coils for some new OME865s.
I had no trouble getting the old struts off using a chain wrench and a vise grip wrench. The problem was installing the new struts. I didn't have a flexible 22mm wrench and there wasn't room to turn bottom part of the strut. I ended up having to drill the holes. Oh well.
Only broke 2 bolts. The underneath bolts for each frame sway bar mount. Anyone have any suggestions? Left handed drill bits didn't get them out. Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? Or should I just drill out and retap?
I had no trouble getting the old struts off using a chain wrench and a vise grip wrench. The problem was installing the new struts. I didn't have a flexible 22mm wrench and there wasn't room to turn bottom part of the strut. I ended up having to drill the holes. Oh well.
Only broke 2 bolts. The underneath bolts for each frame sway bar mount. Anyone have any suggestions? Left handed drill bits didn't get them out. Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? Or should I just drill out and retap?
re_guderian said:
"First shalt thou take out the Holy Old Shock. Then shalt thou torque the Holy Upper Nut of the New Shock to fifty-one ft-lbf, no more, no less. Fifty-one shall be the number thou shalt toque to, and the number of the torquing shall be fifty-one. Fifty-two shalt thou not torque, neither torque thou fifty, excepting that thou then proceed to fifty-one. Fifty-three is right out. Once the number fifty-one, being the fifty-first number, be reached, then lobbest thou thy Holy Shock of Antioch towards thy foe, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it."
While I can't say whether or not I'll be cutting holes in my floor when I upgrade my shocks, this made me chuckle out loud.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using IH8MUD
Agreed Fuzz. I don't know if its an insult, compliment or neither but I laughed nonetheless.
Don't cut holes unless you have to.
Don't cut holes unless you have to.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I'm just saying that you can't torque to FSM specs without cutting. Unless you have some voodoo torque wrench that I'm not aware of. Not that improprer torquing of a shock top nut is the end of the world, I was just going with the whole "right way v everything else" theme... Is correct torque the "right way"?
Is correct torque the "right way"?
I have a Snap-On Flex Head 3/8" torque wrench, plus a crowfoot 22mm... I'm thinking you could hit 51...without cutting holes in a floor.
I fit my torque wrench in there, but I found that the specified torque compressed the OME bushings too much, so I backed off the nut until the bushings looked right. 
re_guderian
SILVER Star
"could" or "did"?
and you made the correct adjustment for the addition of the crow's foot? and does everyone that you advise to follow the FSM have a flex-head torque wrench?
man, I'm just busting your guys' chops. You two are taking this whole "cutting holes" thing to a whole new level. It just really, really, really isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it's not like I cut holes in the hood to install lights or anything...
:whoops: and seriously, you have yet to mention a legitimate downside other than "it's a hole". The hole gets plugged. It is protected from underneath. It is far from the lowest ingress point if you were to worry about water entry. It is one more of dozens of already-existing holes in the floor of the body. But it IS kinda fun to watch you two guys get worked up over it... I drilled. I'm not looking back.
"could" or "did"?
and you made the correct adjustment for the addition of the crow's foot? and does everyone that you advise to follow the FSM have a flex-head torque wrench?
man, I'm just busting your guys' chops. You two are taking this whole "cutting holes" thing to a whole new level. It just really, really, really isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it's not like I cut holes in the hood to install lights or anything...
Whatever you say David Carr.
(Just playin')
re_guderian
SILVER Star
touché, had to look that one up!
And now I've probably said enough as I don't think there is anymore tech to be added here, so I'll stop.
"could" or "did"?
and you made the correct adjustment for the addition of the crow's foot? and does everyone that you advise to follow the FSM have a flex-head torque wrench?
man, I'm just busting your guys' chops. You two are taking this whole "cutting holes" thing to a whole new level. It just really, really, really isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it's not like I cut holes in the hood to install lights or anything...
Bustin you back. I have a finely calibrated elbow that torques between 45 and 90 lbft.
As I said before... I'm tying to get rid of holes.re_guderian said:I mean, it's not like I cut holes in the hood to install lights or anything...
Poor Taylor. We hurt his feelings beyond repair with just one thread....
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using IH8MUD
I broke one of those bolts that holds that plate to the frame too. Extractor did not work and broke off in the bolt that broke off in the frame. I spot welded that plate to the frame. Be careful for the brake lines when you weld it.
I would not recommend removing those plates from the frame, but instead, disconnect the swaybar ends themselves. Huge failure in the FSM to give instructions that lead to these bolts breaking off when there is a far better procedure.
Agreed. I'm going to try to drill them out and see how it goes. Worst case scenario is I have to drill the captured nut threads too and rethread. I used an electric impact driver to remove the tire facing bolts. The impacts broke the rust bond and the bolts came out fine. I used a ratchet on the underneath bolt, made it a half turn before the head of the bolt snapped off. The other side I tried the impact driver and it broke the rust off but then broke the head off the bolt.
I slapped in a set of Billies yesterday. Used the good 'ol chain wrench to hold the original shocks, and a 22mm Crapsman combo wrench. It took a while, but got the job done without any issues. Gearwrench would have made it a lot easier, but ended up just doing it the old-skool way. =]
SupraTuRD said:
Should have pinged me.... I have flex heads.
Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
"First shalt thou take out the Holy Old Shock. Then shalt thou torque the Holy Upper Nut of the New Shock to fifty-one ft-lbf, no more, no less. Fifty-one shall be the number thou shalt toque to, and the number of the torquing shall be fifty-one. Fifty-two shalt thou not torque, neither torque thou fifty, excepting that thou then proceed to fifty-one. Fifty-three is right out. Once the number fifty-one, being the fifty-first number, be reached, then lobbest thou thy Holy Shock of Antioch towards thy foe, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it."
Well, I sure appreciated the Monty Python reference. You guys should install a DVD and screen in your landcrushers. And get some silly british films to watch when ur sitting in the woods after a hard day on the trail, what with your seat heaters and all.
