I was going to try the nut splitter, but mine was to small to fit over the nut. I ended up just drilling a hole in the side of the nut to break it loose. Now i'm trying to break loose the torsion bars...
REAR SHOCK UPPER NUTS: Anyone use a nut splitter?
- Thread starter gopriest31
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Just to double check, the top nut on the shock is a 22mm?
I don't have a 22mm wrench so i am going to buy one and just wanted to verify.
I don't have a 22mm wrench so i am going to buy one and just wanted to verify.
jemsec
Mach lll Club
Usually do most of my own repairs. Took mine to a Toyota dealer in a part of town that dosen't sell many, if any, Land Cruisers. Service guy said they would change the back shocks for $100.00.(I furnished the shocks)
Went to pick it up and he was mad as hell and said he should charge me three times what he quoted.
It was hard to keep a straight face after reading everything here about changing them.
Went to pick it up and he was mad as hell and said he should charge me three times what he quoted.
It was hard to keep a straight face after reading everything here about changing them.
lrowe_csp
Too many cruisers, not enough time
I am laughing so hard! That is fricking hilarious...
re_guderian
SILVER Star
drill, drill, drill, baby!
I installed bilsteins last Friday. It couldn't have been easier. I used a 22mm flex head ratcheting box end and a pair of big channel locks on the old shock body to break the nut free on the rear. I had a friend help since I didn't have big enough vice grips.
You need a 19mm to hold the body of the new bilsteins for install and the 22mm on the top nut again. The bottom bolt in the rear is a 17mm.
Taking my time it was about 90 minutes to r&r the rears.
The fronts took 20 minutes for both. 22mm top nut and 21mm bottom bolt... No vice grip required.
Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
You need a 19mm to hold the body of the new bilsteins for install and the 22mm on the top nut again. The bottom bolt in the rear is a 17mm.
Taking my time it was about 90 minutes to r&r the rears.
The fronts took 20 minutes for both. 22mm top nut and 21mm bottom bolt... No vice grip required.
Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
Layonnn said:
This is a problem solver
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9922-Flex-Head-Combination-Ratcheting/dp/B000HBF68I
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Thanks for this - I'm planning to replace the AHC shock bushings/cushions all around and was getting worried since I plan to reuse the shocks (assuming they're not leaking etc).
Hope a flex head like this will make it easier but I guess I'll see...
On the cruiser (MY2000) there is plenty of room to get that wrench in with out drilling holes in the floor YMMV for an AHC truck. Every time I work on an LX 470 there seems to be hydraulic line in my way.
YMMV for an AHC truck. Every time I work on an LX 470 there seems to be hydraulic line in my way.Really just depends on how bad the nut may be seized on there. I had a shop install my OME lift a few years ago. So, I dont know how bad the OEM ones were to get off. However, this summer when I upgraded the rear to RadFlo's, it took maybe 5 min. to remove without cutting a hole in the cargo area. And the underside was pretty rusted at the time. I just used a fixed 22mm box wrench and placed it such that when I used a strap wrench on the shock tower it stayed in place. If you dont know... Just remove the spare tire from the stock location before doing this. It gives you a lot of room to sit under there and just do it.
just cut the top of the bolt off with a sawzal...worked very well for me and was very quick!
My Cruiser is pretty rust free so i don't plan on doing this. Also, i am installing Radflo 2.5s to match the fronts. I'd like to keep the stock shocks in decent shape so that sometime down the road when i want to rebuild the Radflos i can send them off and swap back in the stock shocks.
With there being quite a few 22mm bolts on the 100, i think i should probably pick up a 22mm wrench anyways.
My truck spent 10 years in Chicago before making it's way down to the ATL and I still didn't have any problems getting my rear shocks off. I too used a flex head GearWrench. I could see it being a lot more difficult without one.
The tools needed for the shock swap... not including the jack, jack stands, and the impact for the lugs during wheel removal.
Doesn't doing the 10min shock install solve this problem?
I'm planning to drill the holes today or tomorrow and start PB Blasting the top shock nut and loosen it with a breaker bar.
When doing the 10 min install, how do you hold the shock in place while wrenching the top nut?
I'm planning to drill the holes today or tomorrow and start PB Blasting the top shock nut and loosen it with a breaker bar.
When doing the 10 min install, how do you hold the shock in place while wrenching the top nut?
KlausVanWinkle said:
I used a friend with a pipe wrench (on the top half of the shock).
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This may be the best option for you. However, I would strongly encourage you to try it with out cutting holes in your cargo area first. As I mentioned above it only took me 5 min per shock to remove with out doing this. You could spend longer cutting holes to get to the shock mount than if you just did it the normal way. With that said, plenty of people have had shocks that were a major pain to get off and this may be the best solution for those instances. I would only do it as a last resort. Oh, and patience permitting.
Agreed.
(I apologize if i'm hijacking this thread)
Most of the other underbody bolts, as well as the current shocks and springs are pretty corroded, I'm expecting the top nut to be just as corroded and annoying. Being able to PB-Blast the top nut ahead of time could be helpful. But I'll try it without drilling first.
Most of the other underbody bolts, as well as the current shocks and springs are pretty corroded, I'm expecting the top nut to be just as corroded and annoying. Being able to PB-Blast the top nut ahead of time could be helpful. But I'll try it without drilling first.
