Rear pinion seal and bearing (1 Viewer)

[goodtwin]

So, I figure this might open up a can of worms, but here goes:
I need to change my rear pinion seal on my 1986 HJ60. Couple factors though:

1: it IS slinging oil all up around the underside of my cruiser. This leads me to believe it also needs the upper/outer pinion bearing replaced.

2: Before you ask, I’ve read several previous posts that include the argument about crush sleeves, solid spacers, to replace or not to replace, etc. I am aware that my manufacture year has the crush sleeve and I am inclined to replace it if I also replace the upper/outer bearing.

3: Is this something that I can do with the pinion in the axle? For example: to verify preload, will it be an accurate reading on jack stands allowing the wheels to free roll?

4: Do I also need to replace the lower bearing at this point?

Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks

 

[OSS]

I guess I'm a pussy, but if my differential needed service, I'd take it to a shop that specializes in differentials to have them mess with it. Their fee won't cost much and you know you'l get it back repaired correctly.

 

[poptart]

I've seen so much back and forth about this. The correct answer, is replace the bearings, seals, and crush sleeves. However, I'm seen so many people just replace the outter seal that it's probably not the end of the world.

 

[mattressking]

I've seen so much back and forth about this. The correct answer, is replace the bearings, seals, and crush sleeves. However, I'm seen so many people just replace the outter seal that it's probably not the end of the world.

Closest way to do this is pull the seal, remove pinion bearing and inspect bearing surface. If its clean, then go ahead and reinstall. Install new seal and do the initial torque of 150ft. lbs.

This is where it gets interesting. To do it by the book on preload, you'd have to drain fluid, pull the axles and use a in/lb dial indicating torque wrench or a beam style torque wrench. Then set pre-load according to FSM. Preload is set when the diff is out of the truck, so the closest way to do this is to drain fluid and axles so its just the differential flange you are setting preload on. Since it uses a crush sleeve, it doesn't need to be replaced, but you need to use the dial indicator to make sure its within spec.

If the bearings are rough, its a ticking time-bomb. I was about to pull the flange side bearing/race but instead found a clean low mileage diff and swapped it in. The flange side bearing on mine was toast, causing the seal to leak due to play in pinion shaft. Now I have a spare to disassemble and learn on.

 

[Spike Strip]

No. Do NOT re-torque the pinion nut to factory spec otherwise you will further crush the washer and the preload will be WAY TOO TIGHT and you'll have to remove the entire diff and get a new crush washer.

Axe me how I know

Before you remove the nut, count and mark the number of exposed threads on the shaft.

Tighten the NEW nut (with a little RTV on the shaft splines) to the same spot the old nut was and then stake it.

In this video, I personally would replace the flange if worn - reasonably priced OEM avail aftermarket.

 

[goodtwin]

I crawled under my 60 yesterday and gave everything a good shake. I’ve got movement side to side and in and out. Super loose and shaky.
To be honest I was experiencing some driveline vibration and just assumed that it was my rear driveshaft (which is a tad loose, I’d say). I was/am going to replace the U-joints.
But I think my real culprit all along has been that rear differential. I am gonna say it’s toast.
I’ve looked into the steps and what it will take to rebuild it myself and I’ve decided to farm it out. I wanna be certain that it’s done right.
Thanks guys!