Rear main seal leak: how "big a deal" is that? (1 Viewer)

LandCruiseCzar

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Hi Friends -

Follow-on question: I've got a nice low-mileage LX450 at Slee right now getting some work baselining done. They say the rear main seal has a leak (supposedly common). It's a $1k repair -- $850 of labor removing the transmission to install a $60 gasket. Is this something worth doing? I realize it's not an immediate problem, but what's the general consensus.

(a) Fix the Rear Main seal, it'll last another 20 years or (b) leave it alone - no big deal, too expensive.

Thanks guys,
- Spence
 

haulin auss

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My rear main was leaking for 6 years, definitely not going to leave you stranded.

I finally replaced it this year while doing an engine rebuild and am very happy to no longer have any leaks.
 

haulin auss

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The rear main seal could be the issue but is frequently misdiagnosed and the upper arch seal on the oil pan is the culprit. Until the leaking is leaving spots on the ground most ignore the issue due to cost of repair.

That's a really good point. Mine ended up being the main seal but my buddy recently replaced his and determined it was actually the oil pan seal. I also never had leaking that actually left spots, which really does make it that much easier to ignore.
 
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Mine has an oil seep in that area. It may may leave 1 or 2 drops after I drive it a bunch. I throw down some oil soak right where I park it and try not to think about it much. My last Toyota, same, the One before that, same. None have have left me stranded due to oil leak. Oil / power steering fluid can annihilate bushings, especially poly, so maybe keep an eye on that.
 

clx16

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On an Automatic vehicle is less serious than valve cover leaks..... If you had a clutch then that is different. Something to fix while you are in there, but not something I would go in specifically unless i was bored and had nothing better to do. if you are debating it, then it is a cost issue, if cost wasn't an issue then you wouldn't be mentioning it here. you probably already have your answer at that point.
 
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The rear main seal could be the issue but is frequently misdiagnosed and the upper arch seal on the oil pan is the culprit. Until the leaking is leaving spots on the ground most ignore the issue due to cost of repair.

Very true. I had my rear main replaced while the trans was out and it looks like it was also the upper oil pan.

That being said I would certainly trust Slee to diagnose this correctly.
 

ppc

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Very true. I had my rear main replaced while the trans was out and it looks like it was also the upper oil pan.

That being said I would certainly trust Slee to diagnose this correctly.

I agree that Slee would diagnose this properly. My comment was more directed to readers of this post in the future that would be using other shops that may not have that same Land Cruiser expertise.
 

Dave 2000

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First check out the oil being used, top quality synthetics tend to get by seals that are 30 years old. So a semi synthetic might be an option? That being said I would leave it until the oil drops become irritating, then I would use a leak stop additive at the next oil change, you might do this for the next three or four years depending on your mileage? By then you may need transmission work or whatever.

Regards

Dave
 
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Depends on your tolerance for leaving oil drops on the driveway. Definitely not mechanically necessary. Every land cruiser I've owned has leaked some and burned some oil. So keeping an eye out and topping off is just part of the routine. Not going to harm anything as long as you don't let the oil get low.

However, I'm starting to get sick of the leaks after all these years, so I'm thinking about getting it done. That price seems reasonable for the work involved.
 

LandCruiseCzar

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Thanks guys -- this advice has been super helpful. Hope it proves useful to others too in the future.

TLDR - for the time-being I told them to let it be and skip the main seal repair. Slee's taking another look when doing other baselining work, and basically said skip the fix unless you discover it's leaking a meaningful amount of drops on the ground. --- which I don't believe is the case.

A quart of oil every few thousand miles costs $8.00.

:meh:

@Onur for the comment of the thread. Pretty black-and-white when put that way. Thanks bud!
 
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Is it auto or manual?
Just be aware if you do go ahead and have it fixed, change the clutch and machine the flywheel at the same time... the clutch parts costs will be pretty minimal so totally worth doing at the same time.

I’d probably leave it as is, but depends what other work your getting done.

Personally when I was baselining my latest build I upgraded the manual gearbox, rebuilt the transfer case (and converted to part time), rebuilt the driveshaft unijoints, did the clutch and rear main seal.

Of course when you’re doing the work yourself the costs are massively lower.
 

Bludozer

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A quart of oil every few thousand miles costs $8.00.

:meh:
Meh I'd still probably fix it if it were my truck. Then again I'm pretty retarded

1477658594134.jpg
 

Dave 2000

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Is it auto or manual?
Just be aware if you do go ahead and have it fixed, change the clutch and machine the flywheel at the same time... the clutch parts costs will be pretty minimal so totally worth doing at the same time.

I’d probably leave it as is, but depends what other work your getting done.

Personally when I was baselining my latest build I upgraded the manual gearbox, rebuilt the transfer case (and converted to part time), rebuilt the driveshaft unijoints, did the clutch and rear main seal.

Of course when you’re doing the work yourself the costs are massively lower.


Keep in mind the manual versions have two different clutches, I would not bother to machine the flywheel, I would fit the alternative and get the bigger clutch. Depending on your model you may want the clutch pedal vacuum servo as well, makes for easy pedal work.


Regards

Dave
 

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