Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help

[Tools R Us]

What would be the best way to test the actuator be it electrical or some other way to guarantee it will work perfectly when installed back onto the 3rd?

I always plug it into the harness and run it in and out a couple of times before installing.

 

[Mikesta]

very good thread, needs to be recirculated.

 

[rhyary]

I just had to install my old non operative actuator while waiting for a new one to come in.
I have a correction to make.
The shaft in the unlock position is protruding 2 and 3/8" NOT 2 and 3/16".

Since mine is not working, I had to open the mechanism and position the shaft in unlock position.

When I get my new one, I'll measure how it comes new. I believe it ships in the lock position.

 

[rhyary]

OK, so I got the replacement rear e-locker. Installed and worked like new. Oh wait, it is new.

Just to add a data point. A new rear e-locker is shipped from Toyota with the shaft extended 2 7/8".

So unlocked it is 2 3/8" and locked it is 2 7/8".

One thing to note is that when the shaft is at 2 7/8" and the fork is in the lock position and you secure the shaft to the fork, the actuator is about 1/8" from the axle.

What I mean is that there is a gap that closes when you tightening the four bolts. That gap when pushing on the actuator into its position on the axle is the spring mechanism described above.

So at full lock, the spring holds the fork in the lock position. The shaft does not just move the fork until it hits a hard stop, but a bit beyond that meaning the internal spring holds the fork into position..

Hope this help. Someone with a better English may describe this better than I can.

 

[Tools R Us]

OK, so I got the replacement rear e-locker. Installed and worked like new. Oh wait, it is new.

Just to add a data point. A new rear e-locker is shipped from Toyota with the shaft extended 2 7/8".

So unlocked it is 2 3/8" and locked it is 2 7/8".

One thing to note is that when the shaft is at 2 7/8" and the fork is in the lock position and you secure the shaft to the fork, the actuator is about 1/8" from the axle.

What I mean is that there is a gap that closes when you tightening the four bolts. That gap when pushing on the actuator into its position on the axle is the spring mechanism described above.

So at full lock, the spring holds the fork in the lock position. The shaft does not just move the fork until it hits a hard stop, but a bit beyond that meaning the internal spring holds the fork into position..

Hope this help. Someone with a better English may describe this better than I can.

Correct, it is spring loaded in both positions, locked and unlocked. This is why it needs to be installed locked, when unlocked, the shaft isn't sticking out enough to get the bolt into the fork.

 

[Warrenpfo]

I am about to asses my rear locker on a 2003 100 as the light just flashes on the dash and does not go solid although I can here the actuator wind up the spring.

I am thinking the best thing to do is put the rear on jack stands remove the rear locker cover plate to expose the fork and the get the wife to turn the rear locker on so I can see what is happening inside.

May need to rotate the rear wheel to see if the fork locks in which case it is the switch but if nothing happens I guess it’s a case of looking at the actuator.

Is there a way of removing the actuator and shaft from the fork and then removing the fork with out having to fiddle with the measurements?

 

[RavenTai]

I am about to asses my rear locker on a 2003 100 as the light just flashes on the dash and does not go solid although I can here the actuator wind up the spring.

I am thinking the best thing to do is put the rear on jack stands remove the rear locker cover plate to expose the fork and the get the wife to turn the rear locker on so I can see what is happening inside.

May need to rotate the rear wheel to see if the fork locks in which case it is the switch but if nothing happens I guess it’s a case of looking at the actuator.

Is there a way of removing the actuator and shaft from the fork and then removing the fork with out having to fiddle with the measurements?

I don't know how similar or different the 100 series locker is to the 80, but the 80 series rear requires quite a bit of difference in rotation between the two axle shafts to engage the locker. This is dificult to achieve unless you are on a slippery surface,

Before you take anything apart put it on jacks, select the locker on and then rotate one wheel, the opposite wheel will rotate in the opposite direction until it locks. Do it on and off several times if it locks in less than half a turn reliably then your locker is fine. No disasembly required.

 

[UWdave]

Thanks Raven.

Your write up was so helpful.

Thoughts:
When I opened up my housing, everything was pristine. I mean super PRISTINE. Hard to believe it is 17 years old. The only meaningful thing I think I did was clean the motor contacts. Afterwards, it does appear to lock more quickly.

One might consider trying to just clean the motor contacts and re-install.

 

[altay]

Thank you, Raven
Your notes helped me a lot and I was able to fix the rear locker very easily after reading this forum
Just like you said it takes only 2 second to engage the locker
Thank you all

 

[mtweller]

Are the measurements from this writeup from the mating surface on the actuator housing, or the collar for the shaft? Hope that question makes sense.

Thanks everyone for the writeup, this will be the second time I've had to do the rear actuator in about a year's time

 

[dannyp]

IIRC its the collar. I'm not 100% sure but 90%

 

[RavenTai]

From the collar, you are measuring exposed shaft if that makes sense.

 

[mtweller]

Perfect, thanks for the 411 guys.

 

[Bfaiers]

Hi,
Just read your post on re assembling the rear diff actuator.
I wish I had found it before I disassembled mine.
I will use your notes to re assemble the gear drive.
The problem with mine was that all the magnets had become unglued.
I just took them off the armature cleaned them and stuck them back in no particular order.
When power is applied the motor hunts. I am now thinking that the magnets should have been placed in a certain order.
If you have any suggestion regarding this it would be appreciated.
My car is an 2001 amazon anniversary 4.2 diesel.
Rgards
Bernie

 

[dannyp]

This may help.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/112420-actuator-motor-real-time-help-needed.html

 

[Bfaiers]

Hi Dannyp,
Thanks for the link, as I suspected, I just stuck them in without thinking about polarity. I will assemble them as described.
Failing that, I will have to see if anyone has a motor cover, with the magnets still attached.
Don’t want to have to buy a new actuator. In France there is a three week wait and a price tag of 1300 Euros. Uk not much better, they want £1000. So really going to have to persevere with this one.
Bernie.

 

[RavenTai]

As you see in the other thread polarity matters, iirc matching magnets opose eachother, in other words as you go arround the actuator motor housing ina circle the four magnets are north south north south, with that info and hopefully being able to tell from the glue marks where to clock the magnets, you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right or getting a motor that spins backwards.

I am sorry that does not get you all the way there but hopufully that will get you closer.

 

[Bfaiers]

I have worked out which magnets are north and the ones that are south, when you say there is a 50/50 chance of spinning the wrong way, if so, do I just turn the edge of magnets that were touching the bottom of the cover to the top, on other words turn them round?
Unfortunately there are no markings inside the cover as I gave it a good clean with a wire brush and emery cloth.

 

[RavenTai]

I have worked out which magnets are north and the ones that are south, when you say there is a 50/50 chance of spinning the wrong way, if so, do I just turn the edge of magnets that were touching the bottom of the cover to the top, on other words turn them round?
Unfortunately there are no markings inside the cover as I gave it a good clean with a wire brush and emery cloth.

The poles are on the concave and convex surfaces of the magnets, flipping a magnet over as you describe would produce the same magnet, there are two matched pairs of magnets, one pair with its north facing radially inwards, the other pair the north faces outward, each pair opposes eachother with the diffrent magnet between them, I think you are going to need another motor cover to get the pattern.off of.to.make this work

sorry poorly typed from an android

 

[Bfaiers]

Ok, so I put the north magnets facing each other, and in between them the south facing. So as the rotor(armature) turns it passes each magnet N-S-N-S and so on. I get that bit, what I don’t understand, if the motor runs in reverse what do I do to get it running the correct way.
Sorry if I’m a bit of a dummy, Just can’t get my head round what to do if the motor runs in reverse.
The wife says I’m a total plonker, and I should have check and documented everything before dismantling, huh hindsight!!