- Thread starter
- #61
I think I want to go this route but I'm not very familiar with how these work. Which one did you go with and where did you tap it?
Rear inverter - convert to 12V socket
- Thread starter ROMR NTX
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Any SPST or SPDT relay will work. A SPST relay will connect the primary circuit when the trigger is live. A SPDT relay will have an output when trigger is low or high and switches when the trigger changes (not connecting the NC output wire from the relay essentially converts it to a SPST). You can get these with sockets off Amazon. I'm pretty sure @linuxgod ran new wiring from his battery, but you could use the 30amp circuit from the connector as the source and then piggy-back into some other ignition only circuit in the back of the truck as the trigger. Then you wouldn't be relying on voltage sense to be your cutoff.
A SPST relay has 4 connections. The source (pin 30), the trigger (pin 86), a connection to ground to complete the trigger circuit (Pin 85) and then the load or output (Pin 87). Pins 86/85 need very little amperage to work, so small cable can be used and then pins 30/87 need to be sized to carry the load of your circuit.
A SPDT adds one more connection (pin 87a) which is the load or output that is energized when the trigger circuit is not energized.
Here's a quick drawing, as stated above, just remove the 87a pin and that would be a SPST relay.
- Thread starter
- #63
That's awesome thanks. Do we think the inverter wiring harness would have something useful as a trigger wire? I'm trying to avoid digging too far into the car and running too much wiring.Any SPST or SPDT relay will work. A SPST relay will connect the primary circuit when the trigger is live. A SPDT relay will have an output when trigger is low or high and switches when the trigger changes (not connecting the NC output wire from the relay essentially converts it to a SPST). You can get these with sockets off Amazon. I'm pretty sure @linuxgod ran new wiring from his battery, but you could use the 30amp circuit from the connector as the source and then piggy-back into some other ignition only circuit in the back of the truck as the trigger. Then you wouldn't be relying on voltage sense to be your cutoff.
A SPST relay has 4 connections. The source (pin 30), the trigger (pin 86), a connection to ground to complete the trigger circuit (Pin 85) and then the load or output (Pin 87). Pins 86/85 need very little amperage to work, so small cable can be used and then pins 30/87 need to be sized to carry the load of your circuit.
A SPDT adds one more connection (pin 87a) which is the load or output that is energized when the trigger circuit is not energized.
Here's a quick drawing, as stated above, just remove the 87a pin and that would be a SPST relay.
Are you saying didn't cutoff and drew the battery dead? Were you able to verify the built in low voltage cutoff L/M/H was set correctly on the Glacier?
I think I would avoid the complexity of an external relay. Preferring to plug in things with built in cut-off if possible.
I didn't dig into that, but i suspectnot, since probably all the power comes from those two main wires and then the rest is just control. Since the seat controls work all the time, i doubt there is a ignition only wire.
Yeah, i wouldn't call my experience a rule. The Glacier did draw my battery down and I'm 90% sure I had the protect setting on high. I was intending to just not actually leave it plugged in, but then forgot to unplug it. I did no other testing later on to verify anything. And will be delayed in ability to test for foreseeable future.
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- #67
I got one of these going on both sides now. one for my Bluetti and one for the Glacier
The Bluetti is only charging at 100W which is disappointing. I'm charging through what is basically the solar port, which should take up to 15 amps. For whatever reason it's only pulling 8A.
The Bluetti is only charging at 100W which is disappointing. I'm charging through what is basically the solar port, which should take up to 15 amps. For whatever reason it's only pulling 8A.
I just added a 12v socket in the 3rd row area to charge my bluetti (also only charges at about 90-100w), it is fused at 15A so honestly it's not going to be a powerhouse anyway... I just leave the fuse unplugged when not using to avoid parasitic loss - and I plug my fridge/freezer into my 115v socket, it only pulls about 50-70w (absolute max) so no issues with this. DO NOT try to charge the bluetti with your 115v socket. It will blow your converter (it happened to mine), you need a pure sine wave rated at minimum 300w to use the AC plug to charge with. I just replaced my 115v with one from a 2003 Pontic Vibe (same part and only cost me $15) and swapped the Lexus mounting brackets onto it.
My bluetti is 100W over 12V or 200W over 24V. Basically the wiring has an 8.5A limit (sustained) regardless of voltage.
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- #70
I have the AC200MAX. it should accept up to 900watts(up to 58V and 15amps max). It basically treats it like solar input. If that circuit would give more than 8amps the bluetti should take it.
I found on my Ecoflow that the MPPT did weird things. At one point, I was getting much more power out of the circuit with the engine off than with it on. (Around 130w or so vs the 80-100 I usually saw with it running). With the MPPT in between, I would not consider that a defacto max amps you can pull. I think possibly there is more voltage drop on that circuit than most things would like to see.
@TeCKis300 where did you get that panel?
I am trying to find something high quality (ideally Blue Sea or other US manufacturer) that has cig, usb, usb-c, Anderson and voltmeter.
Never mind - I see now that it is Powerwerx. Perfect.
Alright so I am looking to take this project on as a total incompetent when it comes to electrical. Also trying to document info form a few different sources. Plan to tap the power from both the right and left sides.
1. Create my own harnesses so I can clip into the existing third row seat harness and maintain ability to reinstall third row seats some day if I so choose.
Parts:
2x of these: 90980-12373 Genuine Toyota Housing, Connector M - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~housing~connector~m~90980-12373.html
4x of these: 8100-3617 tin in-stock (alt pn 8100-3708, gold plated) - Sumitomo | TS025-PIN - Corsa Technic | TS 025 Sealed Series Pin Contact - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=967&category_id=211
Run 14AWG wire to the pins that mate with the red and white with black stripe (left side) and blue and white with black stripe (right side) per below photo.
2. Combine the wires from left side and right side seats somehow by splicing (?) and add a SPST relay using the inverter as a trigger for Engine On/ACC so the panel is not drawing down my starter battery.
3. Run 14 AWG to a busbar (what specs do I need given I will have combined power from both left and right seat?) that then feeds various usb, cig, Anderson, voltmeter in panel installed in the cargo area.
Is this the general thrust of what I should be doing here?
1. Create my own harnesses so I can clip into the existing third row seat harness and maintain ability to reinstall third row seats some day if I so choose.
Parts:
2x of these: 90980-12373 Genuine Toyota Housing, Connector M - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~housing~connector~m~90980-12373.html
4x of these: 8100-3617 tin in-stock (alt pn 8100-3708, gold plated) - Sumitomo | TS025-PIN - Corsa Technic | TS 025 Sealed Series Pin Contact - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=967&category_id=211
Run 14AWG wire to the pins that mate with the red and white with black stripe (left side) and blue and white with black stripe (right side) per below photo.
2. Combine the wires from left side and right side seats somehow by splicing (?) and add a SPST relay using the inverter as a trigger for Engine On/ACC so the panel is not drawing down my starter battery.
3. Run 14 AWG to a busbar (what specs do I need given I will have combined power from both left and right seat?) that then feeds various usb, cig, Anderson, voltmeter in panel installed in the cargo area.
Is this the general thrust of what I should be doing here?
I’d use one of those bluesea fuse panels fuse block distribution panels. You could put one on each side or stretch one side to have both connect to the same lug on one panel. Not sure why you are highlighting the smaller wire in the center. You just need the lower gauge wires (red and blue). I’d double check that those are the positive side of the circuit before you combine them. You would then need to use a ground to the frame, or you could use the larger gauge cables on the outside of the connectors.
You’d have to put your relay in front of the panel. But that’s a good idea.
I used a generic 4-gang panel from Amazon.
But you're right, most of the inserts are crap and I've replaced everyone with an upgraded something or other. The 12V sockets are especially crappy, but these work well
Thanks for the reply.
I think for simplicity sake in lieu of the relay I will have a simple on/off switch instead and rely on my noggin to remember to switch the entire panel off when not in use so as not to drain my single starter battery, plus a NOCO and solar blanket as fail-safes.
Do you think this unit would suffice (100 Amp max per block, 30 Amp max per circuit) for this, this, this, and this? All would be mounted to this unit. I read either in this thread or another that the seat wire goes directly to the battery and as such an Anderson plug allows you to charge the battery with solar - is this equipment enough to support that level and direction of charge?
Re: previous photo, I took from another thread - not sure why the smaller wire was highlighted (perhaps @TN LX570 can weigh in - his photo), but I think below reflects the 12v wire on each side:
Thanks - Powerwerx and Blue Sea it is!
If you want to use a switch to turn it all off and on, you may want a relay anyways. You notice that switch only supports 15amp. Usually you use a switch to trigger a relay and have the relay supply the load.
I’ll also add, I thought I’d remember to always turn mine off. I forgot literally in the first month and killed my battery.
Ideal situation is that you use the inverter (or any acc source) and run that through the switch to trigger a relay. That way you have ACC and the switch.
The seat plugs are certainly not “direct” to the battery. They are fused in the passenger cab fuse panel. I don’t believe there is any sort of diode, so you should be able to reverse charge through the plug if that’s one of your goals. Just remember there’s a decent amount of voltage drop to get to the rear, so I wouldn’t expect to get the full 30a per leg, even though they are fused that high.
