I can get a picture of the numbers off it. That may help in locating one.
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That's really cool but I want to be able to revert to stock some day. Wonder how hard it would be to find a plug that would match up to that.
I have my seats sitting next to me so I can pull it.I can get a picture of the numbers off it. That may help in locating one.
Maybe I'm crazy but I can't find any numbers.
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Looks like the male connector is PN 90980-12373 and the female is PN 90980-12374.
I checked the male side too and didn't see anythingHrmm. Can you check the male side connector? Is it 90980-10997? So we're looking for the female receptacle part number to that?
Run a new separate pair of wires from the engine bay and use a 12-24 DC converter. That’s what I did with my (smaller) Bluetti. It has a 100W limit with 12V but 200W input with 24V. Bonus is my wire had a relay triggered by an add-a-tap off the fuse block so the wire only has power when the engine is running (even in accessory mode there’s no power) so no risk of draining the starter batteryEcoFlow Glacier. It has built in battery protection.
But I don't think my Bluetti AC200Max does. Other than requiring at least 11.5 volts in order to charge from the car. Which is lower than I'd prefer to cut it off.
I'm sure there's a way to use that 30A to charge the Bluetti way faster than a cigarette plug. But I think that would involve tricking it into thinking it was being charged by solar. And based on the max solar amps, I'd have to step up the voltage to take full advantage of that wire.
Don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it. I hate running wires the length of the vehicle.Run a new separate pair of wires from the engine bay and use a 12-24 DC converter. That’s what I did with my (smaller) Bluetti. It has a 100W limit with 12V but 200W input with 24V. Bonus is my wire had a relay triggered by an add-a-tap off the fuse block so the wire only has power when the engine is running (even in accessory mode there’s no power) so no risk of draining the starter battery
Where did you get those numbers? I did find the one teckis cited in the diagrams but couldn’t find the mating part. Also I’ve since closed the tabs but remember the left connector designator actually being E-something something. I’ll look again in a bit.Looks like the male connector is PN 90980-12373 and the female is PN 90980-12374.
Where did you get those numbers? I did find the one teckis cited in the diagrams but couldn’t find the mating part. Also I’ve since closed the tabs but remember the left connector designator actually being E-something something. I’ll look again in a bit.
Well done. I was focusing on the wrong connector apparently. And a little jealous that the LX guys have such easy access to a 30a circuit..Bit of searching around really.
Found this thread first
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Constant 12V power in LX fold down seat connectors
The power 3rd row seats in the LX have 12V constant lines in their connectors. There are actually 2 hot wires in each connector. Each connector has a larger constant 12V that each have their own 30A fuse under the glove box. (red on left side, blue on right). There is also a smaller gauge hot...forum.ih8mud.com
then this one
Lexus electrical connectors - pins included? - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - Lexus electrical connectors - pins included? - Hey everyone, I'm looking to purchase a few connectors to try get a wiring harness built, and was wondering if anyone can tell me whether when you purchase a connector head (either male or female), whether the metal pins...www.clublexus.com
The connectors look like the ones in this thread, but I don't have a LX to confirm.
Looks like the male connector is PN 90980-12373 and the female is PN 90980-12374.
Been thinking about how I want to do this and I think I've going about it wrong. In my mind I've got two sources of 12v and maybe 18amps(realistically according to Teck). So I've been wanting to supply both devices with 200 watts, which is near their max DC capability, but both require 24v to get there.
But really it sounds like if I want to do that, the expense and complexity of conversion means I should just use that lead I already have coming straight off the battery. Which is already setup to only come on when the car is running. But also something I don't want to mess with at the moment.
The quickest most cost effective thing is to take one of these leads, and use it to power two 12v sockets wired in parallel. Which should supply the max input of 8.5amps to both devices simultaneously right? Boom, 100watts to each device at the same time, which is nearly 4x what I can do at the moment.
Thinking I might run all this into something like a harbor freight ammo can and have a power supply I can pop in an out whenever I want. A battery protector, a few sockets, volt/amp meter, some usb. make it versatile.
You can use those wires (I did) but they aren’t very high current.. so as a trigger it could be appropriate. Only a 15A fuse, and when you see the wiring you’ll realize why. It’s tiny.I've got a 2013 LX.
Are there any switched 12volt wires I can use as a trigger wire in the back of the LX?
I was thinking that since the inverter cuts off when the engine is off, I should be able to maybe tap into the power running to the inverter?
Ok thanks.You can use those wires (I did) but they aren’t very high current.. so as a trigger it could be appropriate. Only a 15A fuse, and when you see the wiring you’ll realize why. It’s tiny.
But is enough to run my fridge and small battery that powers it overnight.