Rear inverter - convert to 12V socket

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I can get a picture of the numbers off it. That may help in locating one.
 
That's really cool but I want to be able to revert to stock some day. Wonder how hard it would be to find a plug that would match up to that.

You can probably find the seat-side plug by looking at the existing plug for a 5 digit number. If you add 90980 as a prefix to that you will have the Toyota PN. That way you can make a new pigtail and not have to cut the existing wiring. That will be just the plug though so you will still have to pin it and build the wiring out from the there.
 
I can get a picture of the numbers off it. That may help in locating one.
I have my seats sitting next to me so I can pull it.
 
Maybe I'm crazy but I can't find any numbers.

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Hrmm. Can you check the male side connector? Is it 90980-10997? So we're looking for the female receptacle part number to that?
I checked the male side too and didn't see anything
 
There's nothing new under the sun gentlemen....

Someone already figured this out on their 460. Unfortunately looks like a different connector.

 
EcoFlow Glacier. It has built in battery protection.

But I don't think my Bluetti AC200Max does. Other than requiring at least 11.5 volts in order to charge from the car. Which is lower than I'd prefer to cut it off.

I'm sure there's a way to use that 30A to charge the Bluetti way faster than a cigarette plug. But I think that would involve tricking it into thinking it was being charged by solar. And based on the max solar amps, I'd have to step up the voltage to take full advantage of that wire.
Run a new separate pair of wires from the engine bay and use a 12-24 DC converter. That’s what I did with my (smaller) Bluetti. It has a 100W limit with 12V but 200W input with 24V. Bonus is my wire had a relay triggered by an add-a-tap off the fuse block so the wire only has power when the engine is running (even in accessory mode there’s no power) so no risk of draining the starter battery
 
Run a new separate pair of wires from the engine bay and use a 12-24 DC converter. That’s what I did with my (smaller) Bluetti. It has a 100W limit with 12V but 200W input with 24V. Bonus is my wire had a relay triggered by an add-a-tap off the fuse block so the wire only has power when the engine is running (even in accessory mode there’s no power) so no risk of draining the starter battery
Don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it. I hate running wires the length of the vehicle.

I do however have an anderson plug already run for my trailer. Which is currently not being used because I converted the trailer to lithium.

I've considered repurposing that but I'll have to get it inside somehow.
 
With the right wire leads it wouldn't be difficult to depin the connector from the seat harness so that you can revert to stock if needed. Alternately if you really want it, those seat harnesses are about $70, which would give you something to cannibalize without worrying about reverting.

I'm still trying to find the part number of that connector in the EWDs.. this is like where's waldo.
 
I think this is the wiring diagram, but don't see any part numbers. Looks like possibly connector "hi1" (RH) and "hi2" (LH)?

How many wires? Can you post a picture of the connector straight on showing the pins?
 

Attachments

Looks like the male connector is PN 90980-12373 and the female is PN 90980-12374.
Where did you get those numbers? I did find the one teckis cited in the diagrams but couldn’t find the mating part. Also I’ve since closed the tabs but remember the left connector designator actually being E-something something. I’ll look again in a bit.
 
Where did you get those numbers? I did find the one teckis cited in the diagrams but couldn’t find the mating part. Also I’ve since closed the tabs but remember the left connector designator actually being E-something something. I’ll look again in a bit.

Bit of searching around really.

Found this thread first

then this one

The connectors look like the ones in this thread, but I don't have a LX to confirm.
 
Bit of searching around really.

Found this thread first

then this one

The connectors look like the ones in this thread, but I don't have a LX to confirm.
Well done. I was focusing on the wrong connector apparently. And a little jealous that the LX guys have such easy access to a 30a circuit..

To answer the original question, the wires leading into the inverter are really small.. too small for much use. 15a circuit, at least on a LC. I actually use this wire to power the Iceco battery that maintains my fridge when the vehicle is shut off, with the stock inverter disconnected. I'm looking at putting a more substantial inverter in the jack compartment and powering some kind of flush-mount outlet.. but need a decent power wire to do so.
 
Been thinking about how I want to do this and I think I've going about it wrong. In my mind I've got two sources of 12v and maybe 18amps(realistically according to Teck). So I've been wanting to supply both devices with 200 watts, which is near their max DC capability, but both require 24v to get there.

But really it sounds like if I want to do that, the expense and complexity of conversion means I should just use that lead I already have coming straight off the battery. Which is already setup to only come on when the car is running. But also something I don't want to mess with at the moment.

The quickest most cost effective thing is to take one of these leads, and use it to power two 12v sockets wired in parallel. Which should supply the max input of 8.5amps to both devices simultaneously right? Boom, 100watts to each device at the same time, which is nearly 4x what I can do at the moment.

Thinking I might run all this into something like a harbor freight ammo can and have a power supply I can pop in an out whenever I want. A battery protector, a few sockets, volt/amp meter, some usb. make it versatile.
 
Looks like the male connector is PN 90980-12373 and the female is PN 90980-12374.

Been thinking about how I want to do this and I think I've going about it wrong. In my mind I've got two sources of 12v and maybe 18amps(realistically according to Teck). So I've been wanting to supply both devices with 200 watts, which is near their max DC capability, but both require 24v to get there.

But really it sounds like if I want to do that, the expense and complexity of conversion means I should just use that lead I already have coming straight off the battery. Which is already setup to only come on when the car is running. But also something I don't want to mess with at the moment.

The quickest most cost effective thing is to take one of these leads, and use it to power two 12v sockets wired in parallel. Which should supply the max input of 8.5amps to both devices simultaneously right? Boom, 100watts to each device at the same time, which is nearly 4x what I can do at the moment.

Thinking I might run all this into something like a harbor freight ammo can and have a power supply I can pop in an out whenever I want. A battery protector, a few sockets, volt/amp meter, some usb. make it versatile.

Yes!

Don't overthink it. Shotting for max power isn't really the goal. My Goal Zero only charges a 5A and it's still really effective.

I would just use a splice into the 30A power wire, or even use a vampire / T-Tap. Then feed that to a power panel installed on the side wall access. A combination of USB, USB-C, Andersons, cigeratte lighters, whatever your fancy. Works great.

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I've got a 2013 LX.
Are there any switched 12volt wires I can use as a trigger wire in the back of the LX?
I was thinking that since the inverter cuts off when the engine is off, I should be able to maybe tap into the power running to the inverter?
 
I've got a 2013 LX.
Are there any switched 12volt wires I can use as a trigger wire in the back of the LX?
I was thinking that since the inverter cuts off when the engine is off, I should be able to maybe tap into the power running to the inverter?
You can use those wires (I did) but they aren’t very high current.. so as a trigger it could be appropriate. Only a 15A fuse, and when you see the wiring you’ll realize why. It’s tiny.

But is enough to run my fridge and small battery that powers it overnight.
 
You can use those wires (I did) but they aren’t very high current.. so as a trigger it could be appropriate. Only a 15A fuse, and when you see the wiring you’ll realize why. It’s tiny.

But is enough to run my fridge and small battery that powers it overnight.
Ok thanks.
Yeah I really dont need much if any in the way of carrying capacity.
I just need a wire that is hot when the ignition is on, and not when the car is off.
Trying to trigger a victron unit. It wont use any of the current for the load, basically just a trigger wire to tell it when to turn off. Much like a relay.
 

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