Rear inverter - convert to 12V socket

[Ronel2020]

I’ve now down the rabbit hole in this thread … fortunately it’s too long yet. I stumbled across it when thinking through power solutions for a planned drawer/sleeper build. I plan to install a drawer style fridge freezer on one side and power with Bluetti/ecoflow/etc. @TeCKis300 did you bother with a relay to power your goal zero so that it only charges when the ignition is on?

 

[linuxgod]

I’ve now down the rabbit hole in this thread … fortunately it’s too long yet. I stumbled across it when thinking through power solutions for a planned drawer/sleeper build. I plan to install a drawer style fridge freezer on one side and power with Bluetti/ecoflow/etc. @TeCKis300 did you bother with a relay to power your goal zero so that it only charges when the ignition is on?

I used a relay with my Bluetti to only charge when the engine is running. It’s pretty straightforward to wire

 

[ROMR NTX]

I used a relay with my Bluetti to only charge when the engine is running. It’s pretty straightforward to wire

Can you tap into something in the back for this?

 

[linuxgod]

Can you tap into something in the back for this?

Probably. You don’t need much current for the relay to trigger, any 12V source will work. I have a fuse block input in the back and that is wired from and triggered off the engine, so I’m not sure what you’d use offhand. I used an add-a-fuse off the EFI system IIRC to trigger the relay, so the rear fuse block is only powered once the engine is running… it won’t come on even in ACC mode. Im sure you could tap something 12V that is ACC/ON but I don’t know if there’s anything that is only powered when ON but not in ACC mode.

 

[lx200inAR]

There may be something even easier. But surely you can use the 12v input of the OEM inverter. The inverter in my LX definitely only works with ignition on. As @linuxgod states. It takes very little juice to trigger a relay, so you can pretty much tap into anything and most likely not affect that system at all. Just stay away from the bright yellow wires.

 

[TeCKis300]

I’ve now down the rabbit hole in this thread … fortunately it’s too long yet. I stumbled across it when thinking through power solutions for a planned drawer/sleeper build. I plan to install a drawer style fridge freezer on one side and power with Bluetti/ecoflow/etc. @TeCKis300 did you bother with a relay to power your goal zero so that it only charges when the ignition is on?

If the question is in regards to the Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable, relay not necessary. It has a built in low voltage detection circuit such that it'll only charge when it detects the engine is on.

 

[arbetrader]

Just figured I'd jump in here because my 110v AC inverter in my 2008 LX just kicked the bucket - I was trying to charge my Bluetti off it (dumb idea as it's modified sine wave), thankfully it didn't wreck the bluetti, but it got me thinking if I just keep it 12v (convert to DC Socket instead of AC socket).

My question is: What socket can I buy to do this (Amazon??), and is there a factory plug I can just plug it into? I'm a total noob with this stuff but shouldn't need more than 100w anyway as it's just a slow charger while I power my fridge from the bluetti, so I doubt I'd have to upgrade the lines... And I'd (for now) just prefer to use something that has the auto shutoff like this circuit.

 

[TLC2013]

Just figured I'd jump in here because my 110v AC inverter in my 2008 LX just kicked the bucket - I was trying to charge my Bluetti off it (dumb idea as it's modified sine wave), thankfully it didn't wreck the bluetti, but it got me thinking if I just keep it 12v (convert to DC Socket instead of AC socket).

My question is: What socket can I buy to do this (Amazon??), and is there a factory plug I can just plug it into? I'm a total noob with this stuff but shouldn't need more than 100w anyway as it's just a slow charger while I power my fridge from the bluetti, so I doubt I'd have to upgrade the lines... And I'd (for now) just prefer to use something that has the auto shutoff like this circuit.

I went with a similar set up to power my Ecoflow and fridge. Due to the small wiring of that factory inverter I wouldn't use it for anything.
I ran some 8 awg wire with a "Add a Fuse" from the driver side foot well fuse panel to the rear cargo area. Drilled a small hole and added a Blue Sea 12v cig outlet (purchased on amazon) into the side paneling of the 3rd row. Then ran a short ground wire to a metal bolt behind the same side paneling of the 3rd row.
I chose to tap into "the rear wiper fuse" with the " add a fuse." It is an ignition on fuse so it wont drain the battery with the car off and if something causes this circuit to blow its non critical with only the rear wiper going offline.

 

[lx200inAR]

Wanted to provide an update on the 30amp circuits used for the 3rd row power seats. I've been messing with these this past week trying to work out what i'm going to do to keep my lithium battery charged in the rear. While these are fused at 30amps, I don't think you can really pull 30 amps from them. I have a 20amp DC to DC and with it connected (and pushing 15amps into my Lithium battery, right at 200w according to the shunt) it would not work consistently. With effeciency of the DC to DC, we were probably pulling 220-ish watts from the plug. On the driver side seat connector it would blow the fuse within a minute and on the passenger side it wouldn't blow the fuse but it would cause my screen in the dash to power cycle. This power cycling was occuring with the engine idling. I haven't tried mating the two wires into a single circuit, this may be the trick to get a full 200 watts out of those wires. Although, I have to assume that voltage sag caused by the load on the under glovebox fuse panel is what was causing my screen to reset, so it's possible that splitting the load across two wires won't make a difference if I was causing too much voltage drop between the glovebox fuse panel and the main fuse panel.

All that to say, I was able to run 100 watts out of each plug with no issues. I'm trying to remember if I ever ran 100 watts out of both plugs simultaneously. I should give that a try and see if I get the same effect as running the DC to DC charger at 220w. I suspect i won't blow any fuses, but may run into the rebooting infotainment screen.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Wanted to provide an update on the 30amp circuits used for the 3rd row power seats. I've been messing with these this past week trying to work out what i'm going to do to keep my lithium battery charged in the rear. While these are fused at 30amps, I don't think you can really pull 30 amps from them. I have a 20amp DC to DC and with it connected (and pushing 15amps into my Lithium battery, right at 200w according to the shunt) it would not work consistently. With effeciency of the DC to DC, we were probably pulling 220-ish watts from the plug. On the driver side seat connector it would blow the fuse within a minute and on the passenger side it wouldn't blow the fuse but it would cause my screen in the dash to power cycle. This power cycling was occuring with the engine idling. I haven't tried mating the two wires into a single circuit, this may be the trick to get a full 200 watts out of those wires. Although, I have to assume that voltage sag caused by the load on the under glovebox fuse panel is what was causing my screen to reset, so it's possible that splitting the load across two wires won't make a difference if I was causing too much voltage drop between the glovebox fuse panel and the main fuse panel.

All that to say, I was able to run 100 watts out of each plug with no issues. I'm trying to remember if I ever ran 100 watts out of both plugs simultaneously. I should give that a try and see if I get the same effect as running the DC to DC charger at 220w. I suspect i won't blow any fuses, but may run into the rebooting infotainment screen.

100W would still be a nice win. Especially if you could run 100w on both sides.

 

[lx200inAR]

100W would still be a nice win. Especially if you could run 100w on both sides.

Yep, if I can get 100w into my Ecoflow River Pro and into my Lithium battery, I'd take that for sure. Or at least worst case, into my Ecoflow Glacier and the River Pro.

 

[ROMR NTX]

I think I've got connectors that will work, but need to confirm I have the right pin placements

Found this picture from another thread but they don't label the neutral wire. I'm assuming it's the large white wire with black strip on the upper right of the connector?

 

[ROMR NTX]

Got it working. This is kind of a first pass. I'll make something cleaner later on.

Right now it's hooked straight to an XT60 connector powering my eco flow glacier. That's the only connector style I had laying around. Car battery protection is set to high, it charged for a few minutes and then cutoff with a battery alert from the glacier. So far so good

The glacier won't tell me how many watts it's pulling. I'll set up the other side to charge my bluetti and then we'll see some wattage, but I need to order an xt90 for that

 

[ROMR NTX]

Oh and charging did come back on startup

 

[lx200inAR]

Interesting, as @linuxgod can attest, my Glacier definitely killed my battery at LCDC. I did the same, XT60 strait to Glacier. Wonder if there is something wrong with mine.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Interesting, as @linuxgod can attest, my Glacier definitely killed my battery at LCDC. I did the same, XT60 strait to Glacier. Wonder if there is something wrong with mine.

Well this has only been tested once, for a couple of minutes. I'll watch it like a hawk for a while.

Did you use a regular XT60 or an XT60i?

 

[lx200inAR]

Well this has only been tested once, for a couple of minutes. I'll watch it like a hawk for a while.

Did you use a regular XT60 or an XT60i?

Regular

 

[linuxgod]

Interesting, as @linuxgod can attest, my Glacier definitely killed my battery at LCDC. I did the same, XT60 strait to Glacier. Wonder if there is something wrong with mine.

Can attest to a dead battery. You had all the bad luck this year :-(

 

[ROMR NTX]

Regular

Did you ever get that low voltage cutoff from Amazon installed?

 

[lx200inAR]

Did you ever get that low voltage cutoff from Amazon installed?

No not yet.