Rear e-locker does not engage

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rhyary

rhyary

Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Threads
167
Messages
1,481
Location
Albany, NY
My rear e-locker is not engaging.
It was working fine while testing on a dirt road.
We then crossed some water.
We then went to a challenging ledge, but the rear e-locker would not engage. I tried to engage it in the last two days but it no longer works.

The front works fine.
The CDL is on when testing.
I have been engaging e-lockers periodically and the always worked.



It might have been the water, it may not. I don't want to assume it is.

I am looking for a procedure to test were it does not work.

1. Is there a fuse involved?
2. If I disconnect the electric connection, what voltage should I get when engaging the e locker?
3. If I get voltage - what next
4. If I don't get voltage what then?
5. Is it easy to unbolt the locker to check it out on the bench? and what would should I be looking. Really need specific help here, not general suggestions.

TIA
Rami
 
Your e-locker does not have fine splines where the splines line-up easily for engagement and disengagement. Your's only has 5 splines, consequently your tire could have to make a 1/5th rotation before splines align. Although the unit is spring loaded to make the engagement automatically at alignment, perhaps the motor or ??something?? is not allowing the engagement, faulty spring loading?? If failure continues, you might consider a cable conversion??
 
Just for clarification. I switched on the CDL and the rear e-locker and drove it straight, drove it in circles, left and right. I tried in to engage it in a field with all known combinations.

Also, I forget to mention. I put my hand on the front e-locker and had someone switch the front on and off. I can feel the e-locker clicking or trying something, although very faintly.
I then did the same on the rear, but could not feel anything.

After work today I plan to take the e-locker guard off, clean around, and try to unplug it to see if some water got in there.

Anyone have suggestion on what to test electrical. I would like to know at least if signal is getting to it.
 
My first test is; does the actuator motor run? It sounds like you have determined that is doesn't? Second is; does the diff lock ECU relay click, you should be able to hear it, IIRC from the passenger side kick panel area, should click when the rotary diff lock switch is turned on.

If the relay does click, it could be a bad connection, but the most likely failure is the motor is bound, rusted up or bad. Warning if left switched on too long in this condition, the motor can be burned up. If the motor is bound, anytime the switch is on, power is applied until it moves, so can be overheated. Been there, passed on the t-shirt!:whoops:

If the relay doesn't click; it could be a bad connection (rare), bad ECU (very rare) or most commonly a bad connection at the position limit switch in the actuator. The relays in the ECU are powered from the rotary diff lock switch, ground comes from the position limit switch in the actuator.

In my experience, most actuator problems are from moisture and require it to be taken apart, cleaned and greased. IMHO the breather isn't in the best place, terminates in the driver side wheel well, I use vacuum line to extend into the jack compartment, ending the problem.

There are some very good threads on actuator diagnoses and repair, search should bring them up.
rear_locker112.webp
rear_locker113.webp


rear_locker114.webp
 
rhyary said:
Kevin,
Yes the relay on the passenger side clicks.
Click to expand...

You can confirm voltage on the motor wires at the motor, but in my experience this is usually in the actuator, most times caused by moisture. Some have had luck freeing them up by tapping on the motor. My thought is; if the grease is contaminated, cleaning and greasing makes them work much faster and more reliably.

On the actuators that I have worked on, I have found the o-ring seal areas (the motor and spring/gear covers) to be corroded, not seal well, so always seal them with silicone RTV. IMHO it's important to have the actuator sealed water tight and extend the breather, to prevent repeat problems.

This thread has some good info, especially post 7:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/17701-rear-locking-dif-assembly-help.html

Pic of where the actuator breather is:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/144242-maybe-check-your-rear-e-locker-actuator-vent.html

This one is about the CDL actuator, but they are all similar, so may get some info?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/68015-cdl-actuator-fun.html
 
I spent quite sometime on the links provided. I also studied the FSM.
The FSM says that before removing the e-locker you have to lock it.
But I can't lock it which is the reason I want to remove it for inspection. So what do I do?
Also, to check the continuity on the position switch it needs to be removed.
Do I simply unbolt it, or there is a trick to it?
 
They can be removed unlocked. After it's removed, manually lock and install locked. To lock, jack up the passenger side tire, push the shift fork/lock collar towards the diff and turn the tire until it lines up/locks.
 
I got the rear e-lock out.
I am a bit concern that it will get to complicated to put it back, just to even drive the car tomorrow.
I opened the cover of the e-locker on the bench. Everything looks new. Moisture did not get in there.
So I have to test the electric part itself.
If the actual actuator is not working, what next?
Any one know how much a new one cost?

I will search around in the link provided as to how to proceed.
 
i think it was raventai that posted the ohm readings that you should get when the motor is locked/unlocked. that was my issue. a little bit of adjusting and it works great now (well as great as course splines can work :rolleyes:)
 
Here is the status.
I put it back together. I tried it in the driveway. It worked. I couldn't believe it. Besides cleaning the electric connections and taking it off the car and put it back together, I have not really fixed anything.
I tried if few times in my driveway. Back and forth left and right. It worked. Number of times.
.
.
I took the car for a ride about 1/2 mile. Came back to my driveway. Tried the routine again. No worky. Damn.

At least I can drive the car tomorrow and the weekend. So does it point to electrical? the actual actuator? The Philip's screws on the motor are so corroded, I don't really know if I can un screw them.

Suggestion are welcomed. At least I now know how to it looks so that i can understand suggestion.

Rick, if we can get together that will be wonderful.


Rami
 
Last edited:
The FSM installation page calls for:
(b) Apply FIPG to the actuator.
FIPG: Part No. 08826–00090, THREE BOND 1281 or
equivalent

and

(e) Coat the threads of the set bolt with adhesive.
Adhesive: Part No. 08833–00070, THREE BOND 1324
or equivalent

Is (b) the same as High temp silicon RTV gasket (red) this is what I have.
Is (e) the same as locktite? would that be locktite blue or red?

TIA
 
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