Rear Bumper Crossmember/Frame Rust and Dissent V3 Rear Bumper (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 10, 2022
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12
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82
Location
Alaska
(Crossposted between here and the UZJ100 FB Group)
Hi all! Looking for some rear bumper advice. I have some rust that has the rear cross member a bit jacked. I ordered a Dissent Offroad v3 high clearance reae bumpwr without the cross member cuz I don't tow. After looking at the rust on my 100 (see pictures) it has me asking which is the best option considering cost and function.

1. Have the current cross member cut out, and update my order to add Dissent's rear crossmember and have that welded in.

Or

2. Have the current crossmember repaired (idk much about welding so I'm not sure how much of an undertaking that would be).

*edit: Either way I realize at the very least the drivers side frame rust will need to be mended.

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I don’t know what the difference is between a Dissent bumper that does or does not have a “crossmember”. I suggest asking Dissent directly: @kem

Personally, I would just cut the crossmember off and put a 4x4 labs bumper on. But perhaps the Dissent with “crossmember” is similar.
 
I don’t know what the difference is between a Dissent bumper that does or does not have a “crossmember”. I suggest asking Dissent directly: @kem

Personally, I would just cut the crossmember off and put a 4x4 labs bumper on. But perhaps the Dissent with “crossmember” is similar.
Yeah so the dissent crossmember looks like this. Might be worth it just to cut and get it.
Screenshot_20221019-124107_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
You're frame is going to need to be repaired either way where the tow point bolts to. The bumper uses those weld nuts inside the frame
Yeah it doesn't look good haha. When you say weld nuts, do you mean the same ones the tow point uses? There are two holes further along that appear to have some nuts loose inside the frame.
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Yeah it doesn't look good haha. When you say weld nuts, do you mean the same ones the tow point uses? There are two holes further along that appear to have some nuts loose inside the frame.View attachment 3145312
This is what I'm dealing with right now. The welded on nuts in the frame broke off and 2 bolts are stuck to those nuts. I'm planning on hammering those nuts out and just replacing with new nuts and bolts. Will be annoying since they won't be welded to the frame but it'll be better.

Trail Tailor makes bolts: Tow Point Bolts - https://www.trail-tailor.com/store/p78/Tow_Point_Bolts.html
And I got nuts from here: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/95003A214/

Haven't done it though, not clear on how to break the nuts off of the frame just yet. Drilling through the bolt has been a waste of time so far.
 
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Having just added a Dissent V3 bumper to my fig, and just having replaced my rig's rear crossmember because I was rear-ended, I would advise replacing your rotting crossmember with the Dissent high-clearance crossmember.
 
It appears that the OEM crossmember remains in place, and that the Dissent crossmember is not a suitable replacement but rather a reinforcement. Am I missing something?
I think so. If you get the dissent crossmember, the OEM one has to be cutout from everything I've seen.
 
It appears that the OEM crossmember remains in place, and that the Dissent crossmember is not a suitable replacement but rather a reinforcement. Am I missing something?
That picture shows the bumper installed with the factory crossmember but we do have a new crossmember option where the factory one is cut out
 
You're frame is going to need to be repaired either way where the tow point bolts to. The bumper uses those weld nuts inside the frame
Yeah that's where I'm currently stuck. Any ideas on how to do that? Mustve happened when I pulled a stuck rig last. I could tell insurance, but I'd be nervous they'd total it? I haven't really dealt with insurance so I'm in unknown territory for me. Collision shops only replace whole frames as far as I'm aware. So barring whole frame replacement, I could take it to a fab shop, but what I don't know is if that's just a bandaid solution or if they could actually fix it up. Per usual most of the rust is in the rear. The cruiser is in pretty good shape other than that.
 
Yeah that's where I'm currently stuck. Any ideas on how to do that? Mustve happened when I pulled a stuck rig last. I could tell insurance, but I'd be nervous they'd total it? I haven't really dealt with insurance so I'm in unknown territory for me. Collision shops only replace whole frames as far as I'm aware. So barring whole frame replacement, I could take it to a fab shop, but what I don't know is if that's just a bandaid solution or if they could actually fix it up. Per usual most of the rust is in the rear. The cruiser is in pretty good shape other than that.
Just about any fabrication/machine shop should be able to repair it.
 

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