Rear Axle?

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Joined
May 5, 2006
Threads
29
Messages
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Location
Redwood City, CA
I have a 1997 LC and I got out of the car after driving a while and smelled something from the rear wheel. I found grease/oil behind the rotor so now I'm going to install a new rear axle seal/s this weekend. Basically, I just want to verify that I'm approaching this the best way possible. I'm planning on buying a FSM, bearing, gasket, and two seals...is this right? I'm on a budget right now so I need to just buy the essentials to get me by for a couple of months.

Does anyone have part numbers for these parts I'm going to buy?

I have searched the forum and found very useful information but I wanted to get peoples opinions before I dig in.

Thanks,

CV
 
The rear axle requires the following:

1 hub oil seal (goes on the inside of the hub near the inner bearing)
1 axle oil seal--goes right into the spindle at the end
1 paper gasket that goes on the outside of the hub
2 bearings (same bearings as used in the front axle--one big inner bearing, one smaller outer bearing.

Having done my rear axle twice now, I have found that the stock OEM Timken wheel bearings have barely deteriorated (at least to my untrained eyes). I have reused my bearings each time (after cleaning them real well) and they have now 164K miles on them--they look good as new when compared to the new Timkens.

I don't have the part numbers handy. Give Dan a call.

This is also a good time to change out your pads and rotors if they are beat up too.

:cheers:
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Do you have Dan's number?
 
Thanks very much, I wasn't sure if that was his number.
 
I assume since you've researched it you know about the SST for the special lock nut, so I won't say anything about needing that.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
I cleaned and repacked my bearings with no issues. You might as well order the gasket and seal for the other side, that we you will be able to call the rear axle done
 
If you find the axle shaft is grooved, be advised you can insert the new seal (old seal caused the groove) slightly less than the old seal so it runs in a different spot on the shaft. Also, to save money if the rear diff oil is fresh you can jack up the wheel you're working on just a few inches so the gear oil won't run out.

DougM
 
Great idea Doug.

Actually you will need to set the seal deeper in the axle housing so that it does not try to come out.
 
To save dough, re-pack the bearing, use permatex on the old axle/hub gasket, re-use the hub seal, and simply replace the axle seal. Assuming everything else is good.
 
Dan, I'll try calling you today for the parts I'll need.
Are you around today?
 
beno said:
THey don't have the rear axle part numbers. Only the fronts.
You have to go to the Mechanical tab for most parts

i.e.

Description
WHEEL SEALPart #:9031162002Price:$20.95Categories:Collision > STEERING/SUSPENSION > REAR SUSP
Mechanical > GROUP 15 - DRIVESHAFT & AXLES > REAR DRIVING AXLES
Mechanical > GROUP 6 - BRAKES & WHEELS > WHEELS
 

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