Rear Axle Swap with E-Locker for 07 GX? (1 Viewer)

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Yeah..that's an 8"...no different than your current but with an elocker.
 
I'll have a locked 8" out of a GX with kdss for sale in about a week if you're interested. All you'd need to get is a wiring harness.
Kyle what R&P ratio is in it? I might pick it up for a simple locker solution for now if it had OEM ratio still.
 
Ah so you are selling the entire axle. I was thinking it was just the 3rd.

To use your oem axle with the locked third, you have to notch the housing for the actuator, add new holes, and longer studs. It is not drop in
 
To use your oem axle with the locked third, you have to notch the housing for the actuator, add new holes, and longer studs. It is not drop in
Interesting. I knew about notching the housing but was not aware of the others. Makes a full axle swap make more sense now.
 
Yeah, the actuator uses bolt holes that are in the third that aren't in the non-locked axle housing. Then have to add new longer studs to those holes for the actuator.
 
what @Vlad said, holler if you're interested. I'd anticipate probably $150-200 to ship to CO, i'll be looking for $1200+ shipping
Thanks Kyle. I am gonna pass on a full axle. Still working on an 8.8 diff project with Front Range OR. If that comes to pass I am gonna need that $1200 for the Diamond housing. :D
 
So is the common consensus that this is ultimately a waste of time money and effort, or will this improve my wheeling experience? Not wanting a false sense of confidence......
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It’s better to get the 8.2” rear Diff since it’s supposed to be way stronger than the 8” one.
If you going thru all the effort to replace it, might as well do it with the 8.2”

Just my two cents. I’m still on a non locked 8”
 
It's not a waste of money to add an e-locker to the 8.0" rear end. If you've been wheeling it without blowing up your R&P, then your results wouldn't change by adding an elocker. The improvement will come when you correct the loose factory pinion/carrier bearing preload. That's where a lot of the slop in the 8" rear comes from.

If you're wheeling with 35's and rock crawling then sure, get an 8.2". If you can get an 8.2" for cheap, then absolutely, it's the stronger of the two axles. That said, there isn't some epidemic of exploding 8.0" rear ends from guys on 285's running down forest service roads.

These diffs have been around design-wise for over 20 years without a long history of issues. The problem that we're starting to see is guys wheeling more high-mileage GX's. The higher mileage equates to looser bearings, which equates to more slop and higher likelihood of failure. Set your diff up with the gear ratio you want and a solid pinion spacer and you'll be set for worry free driving for what 95% of what GX drivers will ever put their GX through.

I've had my hands on 8" thirds from vehicles with anywhere from 20k miles to 190k miles and I've never seen one that I couldn't rock the ring gear with my pinky. If those are going to fail, it's because theyre out of spec, bot because of deflection in the towers.

Sure, Dan broke an 8.0" with an ARB... pretty sure he was on 35's at the time though and doing some above average intensity wheeling. If that's your plan, get an 8.2. Or a diamond 9.5 or D60...

At the end of the day, adding a locker wont strengthen your axle. Maintaining it to factory specified preloads will ensure you get all the strength it has to offer though which is more than enough for the majority of GX owners.
 
It's not a waste of money to add an e-locker to the 8.0" rear end. If you've been wheeling it without blowing up your R&P, then your results wouldn't change by adding an elocker. The improvement will come when you correct the loose factory pinion/carrier bearing preload. That's where a lot of the slop in the 8" rear comes from.

If you're wheeling with 35's and rock crawling then sure, get an 8.2". If you can get an 8.2" for cheap, then absolutely, it's the stronger of the two axles. That said, there isn't some epidemic of exploding 8.0" rear ends from guys on 285's running down forest service roads.

These diffs have been around design-wise for over 20 years without a long history of issues. The problem that we're starting to see is guys wheeling more high-mileage GX's. The higher mileage equates to looser bearings, which equates to more slop and higher likelihood of failure. Set your diff up with the gear ratio you want and a solid pinion spacer and you'll be set for worry free driving for what 95% of what GX drivers will ever put their GX through.

I've had my hands on 8" thirds from vehicles with anywhere from 20k miles to 190k miles and I've never seen one that I couldn't rock the ring gear with my pinky. If those are going to fail, it's because theyre out of spec, bot because of deflection in the towers.

Sure, Dan broke an 8.0" with an ARB... pretty sure he was on 35's at the time though and doing some above average intensity wheeling. If that's your plan, get an 8.2. Or a diamond 9.5 or D60...

At the end of the day, adding a locker wont strengthen your axle. Maintaining it to factory specified preloads will ensure you get all the strength it has to offer though which is more than enough for the majority of GX owners.
Thanks for the replies. I understand (now) that simply adding a locker won’t strengthen the axle, but what about capability? This e locker will allegedly improve capability in certain situations? It sounds like maybe it is worth the $500 the guy is asking.
 
Capability will certainly improve. Having a locking rear is a huge improvement!

I've owned a Jeep with locking front and rear diffs and locking the rear solved most every snag I ever found myself in. Consider you already have a locking center diff and ATRAC and you should be able to get out of most anything. Driver skill, a winch and airing down your tires will take care of the rest.

For $500 plus $10 for a gasket (to template where to cut) $15 for a drill bit and tap and about $10 for the 8x111mm 1.25 studs and flange bolts and $45 for a solid pinion spacer, you have the parts to install the 3rd. Dont forget new gear oil... Follow some of the DIYs online and fab yourself a wiring harness and for under $650 you improved your truck.

I'd argue for $650 and an afternoon's worth of work, there isn't much else you can do to your truck in that price range that will give you the same return on investment.

To add to your choices, you could find a 4.10 or 4.30 elocker and get a matching 8" IFS clamshell front from a Tacoma or 4Runner and improve your gear ratio at the same time. If you go with the 4.30, thats a 60x60mm flange and needs to be swapped for a 66x66mm flange, or you'd have to get a flange adapter from Low Range Offroad.

There's a lot of choices for adding a rear locker. In my opinion, the best bang for your buck is adding an 8" elocker. I got mine for $400. If I found an 8.2" for that price, I would have gone that way.

I spent under $1k and got 4.10 gears front and rear and an elocker. I couldn't have sourced an 8.2 and a gear ratio improvement for that price.
 
No issues at this point to date, and I love having the Toyota e-locker as a backup in the snow. For the money, if you are doing camping and mountain travel, I'm very happy with the upgrade. Wish I could have found a 8.2, but the lemonade is tasting pretty sweet considering. Appreciate that this thread is still running!
 

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