Rear Axle Service - Help with Bearing Preload

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Oct 13, 2009
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Well, at 180K I decided to do the rear axle service on my 80. Pretty straightforward stuff, especially since I had done the front axles a little over a year ago. The parts have been sitting in my garage for awhile, and I had the time so why not.

Digging into the axle, it was clear that the oil seals were shot and I had mixing of grease and oil. However, the bearing and axle shafts looked great. I replaced the oils seals and paper gasket but I decided to reuse the bearings (minimal to no wear at all).

Putting everything back together was going fine until I got to setting the bearing preload. I followed the FSM...tightened the lock nut to 43 lbf while spinning then loosen, then tighten, etc. My problem came when I used a fish scale (yes it is calibrated) to set the preload. Holy cow! To get the into the correct preload range (5.7-12.8 lbf), I really had to crank the lock nut down!

I was not comfortable with it being that tight. In my experience tight makes heat and burns the bearings. I asked a buddy of mine that works on commercial trucks (not Toyotas) about this and he felt the same way. The way our axle is designed, you really have to crank it or loosen it so the holes line up. It's a little different from other vehicles I (or my friend) have worked on in the past.

Another observation that has me guessing...during the job I compared the side I was working on to the other side of the vehicle and that side was pretty loose; maybe 2 lbf...so I just set both loose as compared the FSM. This is where I think they were before I did the service.

After torquing everything else, along with the tires, I checked for play in the wheels, but didn't feel any. If there is going to be a problem, maybe it will show up later?

I read this thread, and it seems that others have noticed the same thing with having to really torque down the lock nut in order to get the right preload.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/212472-has-anyone-tested-torque-rear-axle-lock-nuts.html


I guess I am just questioning myself now and maybe should dig back into the axles and torque down until I get the right preload setting per the FSM.

Thoughts? Thx
 
If the bearing are well packed with grease I dont think you will have any kind of burning..as stated on the other thread these are made of harden steel.....
I think you will induce more damage to a bearing by it being too loose.....
I did mine about a year ago and torque down on them as per FSM.
A year later and about 50k miles of hwy and 4 trips to DV they still turn butta smooth and got no play of any kind on the rear tires.....

My .02
 
I think your description has you in the correct ballpark. Not sure, but I kinda feel the factory procedure is oriented to new bearings and races where some initial wear in will occur and cause the bearing to loosen slightly. With repacking of a worn in set, I feel you don't need to put quite that much preload on the bearing. I ignore the holes in the retaining ring until after I've done the 43lbs a few times and feel I have the bearing in the sweet spot by feel. I define this as no slack and slightly tighter after the slack disappears. Then I simply tighten to the nearest lockring position that lines up a screw. Consider getting new screws for this operation from Toyota. They are soft, easy to strip, and cheap.

DougM
 
Thanks.

So if it is going to be a problem, will I be able to detect it by checking play in the wheels? I don't feel any free play right now when I jack up the rear of the truck and try to move the wheel side to side on the axle.
 
Thanks.

So if it is going to be a problem, will I be able to detect it by checking play in the wheels? I don't feel any free play right now when I jack up the rear of the truck and try to move the wheel side to side on the axle.

There should never be any play in any of the wheel bearings, they are designed to run preloaded. Play = weak, tight/preloaded = strong/durable.
 
There should never be any play in any of the wheel bearings, they are designed to run preloaded. Play = weak, tight/preloaded = strong/durable.

I understand that. What I mean is that there doesn't seem to be any play now. So everything is good until/unless I get play in the wheels when checking? Thx
 
I had play in my rear bearings. I too worry about over torquing the older worn bearings. I had to crank down to get 5.7-12.8 lbs preload.
Second guessing I am thinking that setting preload less than 5.7 lbs might be better??? They were good and tight at 3-5 lbs.

Wondering if I should just remove the set screws and back the nut to the next notch on the spindle?
 
You guys are over thinking it with just a few lbs or torque. Follow FSM and don't add your own speculation unless it's proven otherwise(like 20-30lb preload in front bearings). As other have mentioned a little tighter is better than a little too lose, if you have grease in it and followed FSM you should be good.
 
The rear wheel bearings are the same as the front. Same benefits from preloading the bearings, especially on larger tires.
 

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