Rear Axle Hub Stud and Dowel Pin Upgrade (2 Viewers)

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Can we get an update on how this setup has held up?
I've tried the SHCS route and they came loose faster and sheered faster than standard hub studs. My longest lasting to date is ARP studs.
I now carry spare hubs (plural) in a pickle bucket...

im about to do the same to the rear FF in my 80series, i sheered all the dowels and i have used the 12.9 bolts already and they sheered, so im going back to ARP stud upgrade kit and using the 10mm dowels from 100 series landcruiser x4 per axle

This is my plan of attack as well, I believe it is the strongest option. Folks abandon the cone washers but what they do not realize is how much surface strength the cone washers provide by merely being tightened down. They just need to STAY tight...


has this 10mm x 4 per axle solved the problem or are you still having problems?

Ditto! We need an update OP...


Here is my "stock" 94 FZJ80 for attention:

65016374-IMG_5267_zpssjgchqcq.jpg
 
I wonder if the Detroit locker is just the problem, I will be watching my rears, since I did the diesel swap
 
Can we get an update on how this setup has held up?
I've tried the SHCS route and they came loose faster and sheered faster than standard hub studs. My longest lasting to date is ARP studs.
I now carry spare hubs (plural) in a pickle bucket...



This is my plan of attack as well, I believe it is the strongest option. Folks abandon the cone washers but what they do not realize is how much surface strength the cone washers provide by merely being tightened down. They just need to STAY tight...




Ditto! We need an update OP...


Here is my "stock" 94 FZJ80 for attention:

65016374-IMG_5267_zpssjgchqcq.jpg


Awesome... I wondered if you were still "fostering" land cruisers! Fzj80s make the absolute best budget wheelers if you are willing to cut. I'll probably be where you're at eventually.
 
Hey guys,

My setup is still going strong with zero issues since. I did swap from 35s back to a 305/75r16 muddie a while ago and possibly fitted a Detroit locker in the rear (crapload better than the arb it replaced)

For the record, I used the cone washers along with the SHCS.
 
Can we get an update on how this setup has held up?
I've tried the SHCS route and they came loose faster and sheered faster than standard hub studs. My longest lasting to date is ARP studs.
I now carry spare hubs (plural) in a pickle bucket...



This is my plan of attack as well, I believe it is the strongest option. Folks abandon the cone washers but what they do not realize is how much surface strength the cone washers provide by merely being tightened down. They just need to STAY tight...




Ditto! We need an update OP...


Here is my "stock" 94 FZJ80 for attention:

65016374-IMG_5267_zpssjgchqcq.jpg

I might have mentioned earlier that if the holes in the axles arent a very firm fit over the locating studs, that extra movement will just keep the problem going as it continuously side loads the studs and eventually snaps them. When I added the 10mm dowel studs I was able to drill the bigger hole to suit very accurately and thus eliminate any side play. No problems ever since.
 
@guzzla , I had a buddy who had similar issues, but was regularly shearing front studs and dowels as well.
He used exactly the same process as what you've done, but drilled all bolt holes deeper into the hubs and used 75 mm SHCS.

I can't remember all the enginerding principals behind it, but having the SHCS threaded deeper in the hub increased the torque achievable, and put the weak point at the transition from straight shank to thread deeper into the hole so the was no bending stress on the weakest part of the SHCS
 
which drill bit size you use to open those holes up to 10mm ...?

I might not upgrade my studs but for sure the dowels .. ( and increase the number too )

Metric tapping is easy. Take the diameter of the thread, subtract the pitch and you have the drill size.
i.e 10mm 1.5 pitch requires an 8.5mm drill
 
@guzzla, any chance you might know the Toyota part number for the 10mm dowel pins? I've searched several diagrams and don't see it, I'd like to do this upgrade on my FJ40 which is running an 80 series FF rear.
 
I haven't had any issue after going to 7/16" flange head bolts, I think it's more of a upgrade then the dowels since the extra clamping prevents the axle from wiggling in the first place. Still running two 6mm dowels per hub. In fact did the Rubicon with only 3 bolts in one hub because I crossthreaded the other three being in a hurry on a previous trail repair. Broke the rear locker crosspin but no issues at the hubs, even with half missing on one side
 
I think I stumbled upon the correct part number for the 10mm dowels, after several hours of searching. Cross linked to a 79 series: 90250-10032
 

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