Really strange power steering leak (1 Viewer)

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Howdy all!

Ive been chasing down a power steering leak. Checked every hose, and finally traced it to the back of what I believe to be the steering unit.

I looks like a pressed in cap on the back, and it is leaking through it. It is not leaking from the sides. I cant see where it is seeping out, but when clean it, the bottom fills with fluid within 30 seconds and starts dripping again.
I have added pictures to point to where the leak is coming from.

Anyone have this issue? And more importantly, how to fix it?

Thank you all

IMG_0074.jpeg
 
Normal place for a leak on the pump. There is a seal inside in that area.
 
Try the AT-205 product for that leak. It fixed mine with a leak in the same area/seal. Puddle of fluid to nothing after adding. Its a liquid polymer to restore rubber elasticity and work well for me. 20-25 for a bottle with no downsides if it doesn't work.
 
Ditto for the ATP AT-205 Sealer product until you find time to rebuild the pump. You can order it from Autozone, NAPA stores, or Summit Racing in the US.

I had put a couple ounces of the AT-205 in the reservoir maybe 5-7 years ago with the plan to rebuild the pump when I had the time, but the leak/seep stopped (99% at least). So I put off the rebuild as I'd only have to add maybe one ounce of hydraulic fluid a year to top it off.

Then recently decided it was time to replace the fluid with fresh Mobil DTE-24 Hydraulic fluid, after that the leak/seep got much worse (maybe an ounce per week), so added 1-2 of ounces of the AT-205 and the leak/seep stopped, again.

Someday I'll rebuild the pump.
 
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Isn't that the over-pressure blow-out plug?
Hard to tell in pic how big it is.
 
Anyone replace the seal without taking the pump out? Seems like there is room.
My leak has gotten to the point it will empty the reservoir in a couple of days.
 
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My OCD won't let me do it, but, yes, it can be done. If you want to do it that way, make sure you clean everything on that side of the engine compartment really well. Any trash in there and the vanes will be toast. And then you will have a leak.
 
Isn't that the over-pressure blow-out plug?
Hard to tell in pic how big it is.
That's what it looks like to me. I had it happen to my black 96 and the only fix I could find was a replacement pump.
 
Anyone replace the seal without taking the pump out? Seems like there is room.
My leak has gotten to the point it will empty the reservoir in a couple of days.
The pump takes about 15 min to pull
 
"My leak has gotten to the point it will empty the reservoir in a couple of days."

IME, the larger leaks tend to be from hoses, or the short side pipe and the high pressure hose union.
If the pressed in plug blows out you'll loose all the fluid in seconds.

Might be worth the effort to check the source of the leaks (hoses, high pressure union, side pipe, rear of pump).

There's a small O-ring for the short pipe bolted to the side of the pump which can leak quite a bit (the pipe is at the other end of the larger hose coming off
the bottom of the reservoir). Any Toyota dealer can order the O-ring or you can find something to match. Also, if the high pressure hose has ever been taken off and put back on without replacing the double crush washer, that can cause a good leak.

To replace the O-ring on the side pipe you just need a 10mm socket to remove the short bolt then wiggle the pipe out. The reservoir will of course drain out so have something ready to catch the fluid.

Remove the old O-ring using a pick if it's still intact, replace with the new O-ring, push the pipe back into the pump, replace the bolt. I use a new OEM bolt as it's the type with a captured lock washer and after many years that lock washer gets flattened IME.

FWIW
 
That is a common failure point for the pump.

The pump is pretty easy to pull.

Seal conditioners for PS pumps are one of the very very... VERY few miracles in a can that can actually do something. Not always, but they can often help. Sounds like yours nay be beyond solving this way though.

Mark...
 
That's what it looks like to me. I had it happen to my black 96 and the only fix I could find was a replacement pump.
Well if that's what that is, there is a product to resolve it though the plug would need to fully leave the chat first. I used the product for over 18 mos even though it was marketed as just a 'temporary fix'.
And even still I'd have to PM OP the source of the product as they will remain nameless in order not to offend some who may be reading.
All in all, perhaps one of the mentioned canned miracles would work...for a time.
Really, as you say, a new pump is the proper fix.
 
Quick update.

You all are amazing! I got a bottle of AT-205, and it stopped leaking! Ive been driving my beloved 80 again!

thank you all for the help!

Kent
 
@livelarg : How much of the AT-205 did you add to the PS system?
 
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I changed my pump out about two weeks ago as mine was leaking pretty bad, not difficult to pull but getting the gear and bolt back onto new pump and torqued to spec was a challenge without damaging the gear.

Seal kits are available for about 18 bucks for a duralast kits and about $50 OEM as I recall.
 
Any idea what that miracle mystery oil is doing to the gearbox? It'd be one thing if the pump was separate from the steering gearbox but it's not; wahtever goes into the pump goes in there, too.
 
I had this same thought before using the AT-205 Re-sealer so checked the SDS (MSDS) before using it. It appears to be very similar to brake fluid (90% Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether), just a higher concentration so I assumed it will swell all rubber components it comes in contact with.

So 1-3 ounces may be OK but a full bottle might be too much for a PS system?? IDK. IME (added Re-Seal to two 80's) leaving a couple ounces of this product in the PS system over the last few years hasn't appeared to harm things.

Agree however, better to rebuild the PS pump if/when you have the time.
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FWIW

Note: Valvoline DOT 3-4 brake fluid is ~ 20% combination of different Diethylene glycols (remainder not disclosed):

DOT 3 4 brake fluid Valvoline.PNG



For the ATP Re-Seal the major component is Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (90%):

AT-205 Resealer SDS.PNG
 
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