Real Time: Oil Pan Gasket Cleanup...

[Tezmac]

Few questions for you folks! Sorry the pics are a bit terrible; hard to manipulate a flashlight and iPad at the same time.

1. I still have some residual cork residue after scraping the gasket off (see pic below). It's fairly smooth, but I feel like i should complete remove everything. Best done with a really fine sandpaper on a block? Another better option?

2. Would it be worth removing the front and rear bearing caps to clean out the area where the "hoops" of the pan gasket sit (second pic)?

3. After getting everything cleaned up, would there be any harm in dousing a clean lint-free cloth in brake cleaner and wiping down the crankshaft and other internals where bits of cork and other dirt may have made its way in over the past week?

Thank you!!

 

[kruisinkid]

1. yes its best to start with a clean mating surface. always.
2. no need to remove the caps. i got a 3/8" wood chisel and scraped the entire gasket surface. 3/8" is the perfect size for the bearing caps. its a very time consuming process.
3. probably doesnt hurt but i would just use a dry cloth/towel. no solvents to leave behind and contaminate the brand new oil you put in. dont forget the ZDDP additive

 

[Tezmac]

Excellent, thank you!

I was going to remove the rear cap just because I'm doing the rear main seal anyway, but that'll be one less thing on the front end!

 

[1911]

What Kruisinkid said.

I use a good gasket scraper first, then a Scotchbrite pad with solvent or brake cleaner to get everything perfectly clean.

Remember the torque spec for the oil pan bolts is only 80-90 inch-pounds IIRC. Over-tightening will squish the new gasket out of the mating surfaces.

 

[Tezmac]

I didn't think of a scotchbrite pad, that'd definitely be less destructive than sandpaper. I'll give that a whirl first. Roger that on the inch-pounds; I had to go find my rarely used 3/8" torque wrench!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

When I cleaned off the old cork gasket from the surfaces of my differentials, I used an air-drill mounted scotch-brite pad. You go through them quickly, but they were also the quickest way I found to clean the surfaces. Something like this:

http://www.shop3m.com/scotch-brite-...disc-tn-quick-change-4-1-2-in-x-nh-a-vfn.html

 

[antFJ]

if there is some old adhesive try soaking in wd-40.. works great for getting labels/sticky residue off of bottles and parts

 

[joeuen]

About to do mine as well, should I put gasket marker (silicon) between the cork and pan and engine block? Or just clean the surfaces and line the cork gasket up?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

3M Roloc discs are designed for removing gasket material. Choose your grit:
maroon/medium, blue/fine, grey/xtra fine. brown is for welds, so too coarse.

I also have some tips in my write up that used to be in the old tech help section:

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/oilpan.php

 

[cruisermatt]

I had an oil pan hot tanked for 3 days at a machine shop for around $45, prices will definitely vary. Was worth it IMO, took the whole thing to bare metal.

 

[1911]

About to do mine as well, should I put gasket marker (silicon) between the cork and pan and engine block? Or just clean the surfaces and line the cork gasket up?

The factory service manual says to put gasket sealer on all four corners. Personally, I put as thin a coat of high-quality FIPG (Toyota Seal Packing 103 is my favorite) as I can, all over both sides of the cork gasket. Probably overkill, but my oil pans don't leak and they're easy to get off the next time.

 

[Tezmac]

Yeah, I sat the pan in my parts washer for couple days and it took care of the cork and loose paint pretty easily. Took the remaining down to metal, primed, and repainted it. Blue77FJ40, I actually used your write-up for this portion of the project's pre-plan, I'm glad it's still sitting around! Between that and what RWBeringer4x4 wrote, I'm definitely looking for a few of those discs after work today.

 

[Trollhole]

I use a real fine brush on a die grinder for the pan along with some heat. Engine I use a razor blade scraper. A sharp screw driver that is ground to fit in the bearing caps.

Always use high tack sealant to apply the gasket to the block then bolt the pan on. I do use grey adhesive for the bearing cap corners.

 

[Howard705]

Wire wheel on die grinder/roloc discs on flat areas-then blast off all the dusty stuff with brake cleaner.