Real Time help with Land Cruiser Front Axle/retaining ring/Drive Flange/Wheel bearing

[Mouse221]

I am somewhat stranded (at a rental house 8 hours away from home) and could use some real time help.

Last night I went over a small bumo and heard a terrible sound coming from my driver's side front wheel. At first I thought it was the transfer case or differential, but thanks to this excellent website I learned it was something else.

I pulled off the center cap and grease cap, and sure enough my axle retaining clip was off. Problem was that I couldn't "pull" the axle out enough to clip it back on, which made me worried the splines were stripped.

This morning I pulled off the drive flange and this is what I see. There isn't even a ridge to clip the retaining clip to. Is this normal or is this extremely stripped and worn?

So with the drive flange removed, looking into the wheel I see the following. Does this look normal or do I also need a new wheel bearing?

I am not sure if you can see it but it looks like there is "metal" around the large nut.

So at this point I think I need a new axle. My question is do I need a new drive flange and wheel bearing?

Thanks for everyone's help. I spent all night reading these forums and wouldn't have got to this point without the great information on this site.

 

[abuck99]

Is the retaining groove filled with grease?

There is a locking tab washer that is formed over the locking nut.

 

[saucebox]

That metal is a washer that goes behind the large nut, with tabs that fold over the nut in order to keep from spinning. It's supposed to be there, no worries.

Wheel bearing is likely fine. If there's an auto parts place nearby you can rent a puller to get the axle pulled out.

 

[Mouse221]

Good question. I just went out there and double checked and there really is no groove at all present. Could it be that it was completely worn off?

 

[Mouse221]

I actually rented a puller and the nut broke off in the end of the axle. Regardless, it appears there is no groove left at all for the retaining ring and in addition it will NOT line up to the drive flange. It appears that the end of the axle is stripped a bit but the drive flange looks good to my eyes.

 

[abuck99]

Wowzer- never seen that completely worn off.

To get home, you’ll need to remove completely the front propeller shaft (14mm wrenches) and remove the flange-(already done) and lock the CDL

There is a write up in the FAQ

Then you can replace the CV axle at home in the comfort of your garage.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Post pics of the opposing splines in the flange if you get a chance. Yeah, never seen one completed shaved off like that. But, new CV (go OEM, not aftermarket), maybe new flange, and you'll be good to go.

 

[2001LC]

"Likely" do to improper service of wheel bearings. The snap ring gap was not set to spec. Over time, snap ring, pounded away on hub flange face and axle teeth.

You need new OEM front drive shaft (FDS), snap ring of proper thickness to have less than .20mm gap, hub flange. It would also be a good idea to replace cone washers and side oil seal of differential with new FDS

Wheel Hub should be pulled and wheel bearings along with hub cleaned. Then inspect for damage to races and bearing. You want to inspect axle bushing and needle bearing then grease also.

 

[Mouse221]

I appreciate everyone's help. It appears that the drive flange is slightly deformed too so that will need replacement. I'll post more pics later. After I get this sorted out I think it's time to make sure all of the above items are properly serviced.

 

[Mouse221]

Thanks again for the help.

For anyone who is curious, the job is now done. I ended up getting a new CV axle and drive flange. While I was in there I found a torn upper ball joint boot, so I replaced the boot as well. The ball joint itself was in good condition without any contamination.

Getting the control arms out was the hardest part. I rented a few different Pittman Pullers before finding one that worked. I had to use a different one on the top and bottom. Getting the new flange on was difficult as well - it was TIGHT.

This OEM tools puller was the only one I could get to work on the lower control arm. Highly recommended!

Getting closer. Look at how worn the end of this axle was..

Axle finally out

 

[Mouse221]

Torn ball joint boot

New axle with new retaining clip and proper gap. I bought all sizes (six I believe) and used the one with the proper fit/gap.

New boot... in place. Everything bolted down and finished!!

I checked the axle and retaining clip on the opposite side just to be sure. They look good!!


Thanks again for the help. I hope these photos and this thread helps someone else in the future.

 

[nakman]

great job on the repair!!! just think how good you'll be out on the trail now.

I'd have to say though there's gotta be a "root cause" for those splines wearing off like that... was the drive flange loose? missing cone washers? Hard to wrap my head around how it could have got so wallered out like that, and those parts are generally tougher than CV's generally if you're really sending it you'll pop a CV, not strip a drive flange/outer axle.

did you check the other side?

 

[aging fleet]

did you check the other side?

Was thinking the exact same thing.

 

[Mouse221]

The last picture shows the end of the axle and retaining clip on the opposite side. It appears to be in good condition.

My only thought on the failure relates to the retaining clip. I wonder if it was undersized with too much of a gap, causing the axle to move around and slowly wear off. Of course there is no way to verify this since the groove was worn away.