Real Time Help Removing Transfer Case Cover

[Von Hayek]

Hey Guys,

I have the transfer case cover unbolted and loose, but cannot get the darn thing to drop. The gears combined with the body refuse passage. What gives?

 

[KonTiki]

I used a rubber hammer on mine. There is a small tab on the bottom left you can wack. I may have had to pry a bit-just don't mess up your seal surface. Careful with the aluminum case. And as you get it to open up make sure your idler shaft isn't coming out with the rear cover- you can tap the idler shaft out of the rear cover as you remove the case

 

[fred]

You've got ALL the bolts out, and the shift linkages disconnected?
And you've removed the plug, spring, ball beariing detents that keep the hi-lo and 4wd/2wd shift yokes in place?

Propeller Flanges are off?

I needed VERY little to slide the T-case back cover off.
I may have used a long screwdriver, levering between some solid piece of the intermediate plate and some protrusion on the cover, just to break a little of the adhesion of the gasket.

I am assuming that you are trying to remove the back cover, not the entire T-case. You HAVE to "Split" the split T-case. There are several hidden bolts whose heads are inside the T-case, holding the intermediate plate to the tranny.

 

[fred]

Listen to Kno-Tiki!
When i droppd mine, both the rear output shaft AND the idler shaft and the massive idler gear both decided to come out with the rear case. The idler gear/bearings/shaft assembly is VERY heavy, and the rear output shaft is not much lighter...

 

[Von Hayek]

Does the front propeller shaft need to be off?

 

[eightydeuce]

I literally just did mine yesterday. Take out all the bolts around the entire radius of the transfer case 14mm and 12mm I believe and once they are all out any oil that is still in the bottom of the case will start leaking out a little from the looseness you have created with the blots missing. It needs some love (a hammer and small pry bar in my case) and it will come off no problem. Make sure you take it out slowly and try to make sure that the gears stay in the case and lean them back towards the rear of the rig so they stay on the shaft and not in your face! Good luck!


Not really a proper right up but some useful pictures for you!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/418223-my-first-60-a-2.html

 

[KonTiki]

You need to look at the FSM- do a search for it on mud if you don't have a copy. There is a PDF version online (with a link to it on mud). The fsm has step by step directions and exploded diagrams for everything.

What are you taking the case apart for?

 

[fred]

VON HAYEK,
I don't believe that the front propeller shaft needs to be off to remove the rear case.

however, if the process you're involved in is going to later require that you do anything with the front shaft, or you plan on removing the intermediate plate, it is easiest to unbolt the propeller shaft now, when you can pop it into 4wd lo to hold the shaft in place, when unbolting.

if I remember correctly (a whole month...) I ended up leaving the front output shaft in place until I pulled the intermediate plate.
Mostly because unstaking the nut buried behind the tranny support bracket is way no fun!

Later.
A

 

[Von Hayek]

You guys seem to have had a much easier time getting your case off than me, which makes me think something is amiss.

I must stress that I already have the rear case separated from the front. I.e., the bolts are off, I nailed it with a plastic hammer, oil (transmission fluid in my case) poured down, and it is now about an inch off of the rest of the case.

I have been following the FSM the whole way, however I did skip removing the sensors on the passenger side. I didn't see this to be necessary. But everything else has been removed -- both rear staked nuts, rear flange, idler shaft lock plate, shift plug with innards, power take off cover, speedometer drive gear, transfer no. 2 case cover, and the power take-off cover, and the shift linkage.

The cover moves freely, it just runs out of room to come off. The top of the cover hits the body before it even remotely clears the gears.

 

[Von Hayek]

Oh, and by the way

 

[orangefj45]

is nthe x-member still in there? if so, you have to remove it and slightly lower the t-case/trans.....

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

 

[fred]

Huh... on my '82 fj60, slid it right off, no clearance issues at all.

I have the stock 4 speed and stock 2F engine.

No cross member needed to be removed, just the skidplate.

 

[orangefj45]

Has the shift linkage been removed?!

 

[orangefj45]

Huh... on my '82 fj60, slid it right off, no clearance issues at all.

I have the stock 4 speed and stock 2F engine.

No cross member needed to be removed, just the skidplate.

this is an fj62. the auto trans is quite a b it longer than the early standard and even the later standard.

georg

 

[nordic-nature]

in my opinion you should also remove the sensors on the transfer body. They are actuated with small balls and springs via grooves in the H/L lever shaft. Maybe they will lock the shaft and cover in some way, pressing the H/L gear "fork" against a gear ...
You pulled out the tachometer gear?
I did it the last week without problems.

 

[Von Hayek]

in my opinion you should also remove the sensors on the transfer body. They are actuated with small balls and springs via grooves in the H/L lever shaft. Maybe they will lock the shaft and cover in some way, pressing the H/L gear "fork" against a gear ...
You pulled out the tachometer gear?
I did it the last week without problems.

This seems to make more sense. I don't have a wrench big enough to get these sensors off so I'll have to figure out what I can come up with. Anyone know what size they are off the top of their head?

 

[orangefj45]

iirc they're 24 and 27mm

 

[Von Hayek]

OK, turns out that I just didn't have the idler shaft out all the way. It was stuck in there tightly. Hit it out and the whole idler gear cluster kind of fell to pieces, but I got the case out. Thanks for the help gents.

Turns out the nuts for the driveshafts ar e 32 mm and the transmission output shaft is 36mm.

Progressed fairly well, but the bearing puller set I ordered (Bearing Separator and Puller Set) would not get in behind the bearing to pull. I'm up the creek with the rear driveshaft cluster until I can get a bearing puller with hooks.

This is a bit of a job, but I have a pretty thorough understanding of the transfer case now. Nifty how it is fairly simple yet brilliant.

 

[KonTiki]

.. as you get it to open up make sure your idler shaft isn't coming out with the rear cover- you can tap the idler shaft out of the rear cover as you remove the case

 

[orangefj45]

I don't have a wrench big enough to get these sensors off so I'll have to figure out what I can come up with. Anyone know what size they are off the top of their head?

iirc they're 24 and 27mm

OK, turns out that I just didn't have the idler shaft out all the way. It was stuck in there tightly. Hit it out and the whole idler gear cluster kind of fell to pieces, but I got the case out. Thanks for the help gents.

Turns out the nuts for the driveshafts ar e 32 mm and the transmission output shaft is 36mm.



This is a bit of a job, but I have a pretty thorough understanding of the transfer case now. Nifty how it is fairly simple yet brilliant.

i thought we were talking about the pressure switches?!

it's pretty common for the cases to be a little stubborn when trying to split them. even the smallest rust build-up on the rear portion of the idler shaft ( where it sticks out of the rear case half ) can cause it to bind in the rear half. i usually use a brass drift and hammer to knock it thru the case as i'm removing the rear half.

these cases really are a great design; they're easy to remove and to rebuild. just takes a little time and patience as well as some specialized tools. fwiw, you do not need a bearing seperator. i remove them in a press and it work very well and i can have both main shaft bearings off in less than 3 minutes.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids