Real time help! P1125 code - SOLVED (1 Viewer)

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bwell

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I have a 2000 100 series. Roughly 195k, just replaced water pump and timing belt.

Truck started right up and idles smoother than ever. Noticed idle was kind of high.

Pulled a p1125 code. I have looked through the TPS/APPS FAQ. But not sure if that is the correct area. Disconnected battery for about 30 minutes and code comes back up after being cleared and battery disconnected.
Screenshot_20171224-134421.png

Any help would be appreciated!
 
Check all your connections and throttle cable.

Also, anytime you have your battery disconnected...the ECM/ECU will need to 're-learn' the idle, so it might only be a matter of driving it some (engine on/off cycles).
 
The high idle is a re-learning thing and it will calm down, but the P1125 is most likely a bad connection or a plug you forgot to re-connect. As @flintknapper suggested, go back through the electrical connectors on the air intake and re-do them. Follow each wire connected to the throttle control system and make sure all is well. I bet you'll find a missed plug or one not fully seated.
 
Hmm, I will give it another go. It just goes into limp mode after doing relearn and sets it again.
 
What they are saying is stop unhooking the battery.
Double check your connections and drive it for a week.
The idle should settle after driving for a few days, then worry about the trouble code.
IF the idle does not settle after driving for a week, then look into the trouble code.
If it is undriveable, i.e. always goes into limp mode, then you'll have to look into the trouble code, but you need to stop unhooking the battery and stop resetting the trouble code.
The ECU can't learn anything if you keep resetting it.
Just drive it.
 
Code: P1125
Fault Location: Throttle actuator control (TAC) motor- circuit malfunction
Likely Cause: Wiring, TAC motor, ECM

I have a 2006 drive by wire so setup with apps and control motor is different (since 2004). As mentioned above, likely loose / overlooked connector.

Good luck with locating the issue.

dj
 
Thank you for the replies everyone, I will give it a look again tomorrow hopefully.
 
Thank you for the replies everyone, I will give it a look again tomorrow hopefully.


Yes, check those connections real well. I like to use a little dielectric grease on them. IF you still have the problem, let us know. We can walk you through adjusting/testing the TPS and APPS to eliminate them as a possibility. You can also pull your intake box/hose and note IF the throttle body 'blade' is fully seated (engine off). If not, there's your trouble.
 
I did go through most of them and even added a little dielectric grease before i posted anything on this earlier today. But I will check them all again hopefully tomorrow, but we'll see.
 
I did go through most of them and even added a little dielectric grease before i posted anything on this earlier today. But I will check them all again hopefully tomorrow, but we'll see.

I'd check to be sure the pins in the connections are clean, then trace the wiring (especially to the control motor) to see that there are no visible breaks, etc....
 
Thanks gents. One connector was just barely not snapped all the way. But all seems resolved and running well.

Thank you again, and merry Christmas
 
Thanks gents. One connector was just barely not snapped all the way. But all seems resolved and running well.

Thank you again, and merry Christmas

Glad to hear it is resolved. And thanks for the follow up.
 
Sweet, which connector?
Oh you know the easiest one to get too! Facing the engine just to the right of the throttle body.
I went through all of them with electrical connection cleaner I had laying around also.
20171226_150125.jpg
 
^^^^^^^^ Good job Sir!
 

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