real time header question (1 Viewer)

[samibattlemaiden]

So the depression the bolt and washer sit in on the intake manifold is 3/16" lower then on the header.

so i have limited tools and i wanna get this thing in like 2 weeks ago. would there be a dremel bit i could use? do they make drmeel bits that are that tough?

any thoughst.

also any exhaust experts is it pissible to re use my old exhaust? im trying not to have to spend any more money than i absolutely have to.

thanks

 

[grant5127]

Where did you get that header? Brand?

 

[samibattlemaiden]

its a used one i got from mudrak not sure of the brand

 

[Trapper50cal]

cut a some washers in half and slide them on the shallow side just before torquing then all the way down and double gasket for the farm fix or have them milled

 

[samibattlemaiden]

should i use anything to glue the gaskets together

 

[Trapper50cal]

If you're gonna go that route...which some swear by and others scawf at....I read that copper RTV is the way to go, I would let it set up first so it doesn't act as a lubricant to flaring the extra material away from the port.

 

[grant5127]

Milling the header to the correct thickness would be better than jacking around with split washers.....

 

[lehiguy]

I have set up a few of these cheapo headers with washer bits and pieces and they had worked flawlessly, running for years and years without ever needing anything from me. The trick is to use the right gasket. That white colored thing that typically comes with the headers is junk. The Toyota 2F gasket doesn't separate the siamesed exhaust ports and that becomes a problem getting it to seal with a header. (Hold the gasket against the header and you will see what I mean) The F gasket worked very well, but I am hearing that Toyota has dropped that. As I recall, somebody had said the Napa still offers a good gasket with the exhaust ports separated. Don't be scared of the Redneck method, it works if you're patient in setting it up.

 

[samibattlemaiden]

one more question for all you experts then i swear im gunna put my truck back together so i can start driving it.


my boss is my best bet as far as some one i can talk to live aboyt car stuff and he is all but demanding that i replace all the studs and other hardwear involved is this necessary or a presonal preferance. i understand that there 25 years old and have heated/cooled more times then i know but is it unsafe/bad/stupid to re use the old stuff?



now that i think about it im not sure how old they are as the po rebuilt the engine but, im not sure if he reused the original stuff or replaced em?

 

[Trapper50cal]

If the threads look okay, I can't see why you should replace them

 

[samibattlemaiden]

that was my thought but, im not the most knowledgable mechanic

 

[jonzen1977]

I recently installed one of the cheap headers on mine. I used a gasket from Napa. My dumb a$$ threw away the part number. But we (the lady and Napa and myself) started with a 70 I believe, and started looking at the pics of the gaskets. Just find the one that has the exhaust ports separated, instead of one big hole.
My washers were the same way. I just used some extra big washers that were a little thinner, so they’d bend a little, BUT I also managed to get two bolts/washers into two of the other threaded holes on the head. The bolts will actually be above the header, it’s a tight fit, but the washer will then hang over the header and clamp it down in two more spots. You might want to just file a little notch out of the two areas so the bolt has room to go in straight. Hope I explained that well enough…. If not let me know, and I’ll take a pic of it as soon as I get home (5:00 central).

Good luck!

 

[samibattlemaiden]

im pretty sure i understand what your sayen but im deffinately a visual person so pics would be aswome

 

[jonzen1977]

im pretty sure i understand what your sayen but im deffinately a visual person so pics would be aswome

Well my camera battery is dead, so I had to take it with my phone and a flashlight..... But I think you can see it well enough to get the jist.

 

[samibattlemaiden]

ok cause I'm able to make a weekend project take a lifetime. I have a clearance issue the front pipe on the header and the pass side pipe on the back of the air pump stop the header from seating properly.

I thought I found an easy fix tell I tried to put the other pipe (the shorter drivers side) and found out they are not interchangable .......

So can I by a straight piece (the propped size) and have it bent to fit or better yet have the one I have regent?

 

[4x4Rugger]

header

i understand your problem as i was putting my header on in the middle of a snow storm, well decided to say fu** it and heated and bent and banged it into size with a torch so that it would fit, also ended up having to do some grinding to get the header to seat properly,

dont worry about using washers, they work fine if you take the time to get them set up correctly and dont want to spend any money, also the seal is a must, take your time, seat the header correctly and then when you fire it up there wont be any leaks or pops and you ownt ahve to take it apart or mess with it.

i know the frustration of a weekend project going over time but trust me when its worth doing right the first time, good luck man and you can call me if you need anything just cuz i just put a header on a couple months ago,

808-347-0956

cory

 

[iron_giant]

If you don't want to take any chances on sealing the header, I have some Remflex gaskets and I am in Davis. We could get it there in a day. Feel free to call or PM me if you have any questions about the install.

831-359-0909

David

 

[lehiguy]

Get an extra set of hands to help hold the manifolds up against the head. Then you can focus on getting it properly tightened down with the appropriate pieces of washer or whatever. It is not uncommon for there to be some interferance between the intake manifold and the headers pipes coming off cylinders four and/or five. I had to smack mine with a hammer in order to clear my fluid heat riser.

 

[samibattlemaiden]

its actually at the front (cul 1 pipe) that runs. I checked around a bit and it looks like I'll be taking the culpret piece to an exhaust shop to have em put a bend in there that will work for me

 

[samibattlemaiden]

Tell me I didn't strip my threads

I'm finally putting my truck back together and 2 of the bolts don't fit. Either I mixed them up some how with 2 smaller bolts or managed to strip the threads out of the block.

So #'s 5&6 in the torqueing pattern both won't bite. I was finally able to find a factory 2f manual sense the full Fsm seems to be extinct but, IDE rather not wait tell it gets here to fix this.

So for any one that knows what size are those bolts supposed to be?

And if my fears are correct can I or someone more experienced then me tap that out without removing everything again?


Also if it is the ladder would it be a horrible idea to run the engine as it is? The carb is still not on but assuming I do need someone to fix it it would be easier to drive it then have it towed