Real time break down diag. (5 Viewers)

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May 16, 2016
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Vancouver BC
Hi everyone. The 80 won’t start. I’m in a parking lot in a small town. Close to a parts store that will be open tomorrow luckily but not sure how many Toyota parts they will have. My issue is a crank, no start and I’ve narrowed it down to a fuel issue. No pressure at the rail or coming out of the tank while cranking. the engine sputtered a little while banging on the tank so I’m pretty sure the pump has failed. I don’t have a multimeter on hand so can’t do much electrical testing at the moment. Does anyone know of any alternative pumps that will fit an 80? I have some tools so pulling the pump won’t be an issue but parts availability might be.
 
I know nothing about fuel injection engines…but on a carbed engine you could buy an electric fuel pump at any auto parts store for less than $50 which would get you home.

Those familiar with fuel injection engines can chime in to see if this could work for you.

If so…elec fuel pumps are better pushers than pullers so get the electric pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it can push the fuel.
 
What year 80 is this? If it’s the fuel relay you can bypass it with the diagnostic port by using a paper clip or strand of wire jump the B+ and FP together this will run the fuel pump full bore. You could also pull the horn relay I believe and swap it into the EFI fuse slot which runs your fuel pump.
 
It’s a 93. I tried jumping the pump but didn’t get any pressure. That will be useful for testing. I’ll buy a multimeter tomorrow to check voltage at the pump.
 
 
What model 80 Series are you working on?
Do you see the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition key to ON?
 
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Update. Fuel pump seems to be ok. I got a meter and had no voltage at the pump. I also found that there’s no voltage at the B+ terminal in the datalink connector. This explains why, assuming the fuel pump is ok, the paper clip method didn’t work. I jumped the Fuel pump pin directly and the engine started but stalled and wouldn’t stay running. After looking at the diagram, I realized that B+ from the data link connector comes from the main EFI relay. I jumped the B+ and viola! It starts and runs. I figured at this point the the relay is bad but I tried bypassing the relay and it won’t run. Diagnosis ongoing.
 
I should also mention that the rear defrost relay which is in the drivers kick panel is the same as the EFI relay. I swapped them but it didn’t work.
 
IMG_3755.webp
 
93. Not sure about the CEL. Didn’t look for it.

Check for the CEL. No CEL indicates the EFI relay, or related wiring, is bad and that will keep the engine from running..
 
Have you tested your fusible link? COR circuit opening relay? Checks the wires goimg
Into the ECM make Sure none are rubbing. Also check any grounds in the fuel system.
 
This has been asked several times.
DOES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATE WITH THE KEY IN THE ON/RUN POSITION BEFORE CRANKING THE STARTER?????
Until you provide an answer we cannot continue with diagnosis.
NO CEL=NO START
 

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