Ready for paint need advice

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Feb 15, 2006
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Okay, maybe the paint and body section is a better place, but all of those guys are redoing their 40's and I wanted some 60 series opinion. I have spent countless hours sanding and filling and pounding to get my rig as straight as I can in my driveway. I have access to a spray booth and really want to do a 'decent' paint job.

So my question is. Do I use the paint and clearcoat method, or just the single stage paint. I understand taht the clearcoat helps it hold up better longer. But is it worth almost 3x's the price when all is said and done for my hobby vehicle?
 
no question that paint and clear is a far better final product, but like you say its a hobby rig. 99.9 percent of the people cant tell the difference between the two. as far as protection keep it waxed and you will be fine. it sounds to me that you would probably be happy with single stage. its cheaper, looks good, and gets you on the road faster and with gas$$. just my .02
 
I've done both. Is it a 69 Camaro? - Nope.... Single stage with post sanding work and it will looks awesome... Plus youre probably gana wana wheel it, so don't paint it too nice or it will never hit the woods.
 
single stage
sand buff walk away


or at least thats what i did


attachment.php
 
Next question. I have previously herculined the lower rockers and up over the wheels (as is the fashion) This is going to be a PIA to tape around. I have had one suggestion to just paint over it, but the texture will make it look like I did a really crappy job and got a lot of orange peel. any other thoughts or suggestions. I'll try to find a before pic here somewhere.
 
i would say do a cheap base then do a couple of coats of clear. that way after you wheel it for a while you can just do a light wet sand and buff and it will look new again.
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/182574-herculiner-weekend.html?highlight=herculiner

This is the link from when I herculined the lower portion and over the wheels. I liked it, but not the way it looked in black and blue and white, so it is going solid blue, with the black herculiner....(I think). I wanted to go with a different color but did not wnat to mess with door jambs and such. In the end laziness ran out, and will go back to blue. Does anyone know the exact paint code? I have it narrowed down to two.
 
So 3 to 1 so far for the single stage....anybody else?
 
X2 on Rock guard, I've used it on all the 60's I've restoe'd. Works/looks great, and painting over is no problem. 3M product
 
I already used herculiner, the question is, does anyone know a creative way to tape around it, it has an uneven line due to the texture, see the above link for pics
 
well your other option is to get the herculiner quart can and touch up everything after you paint it.
 
I already used herculiner, the question is, does anyone know a creative way to tape around it, it has an uneven line due to the texture, see the above link for pics

Well, if you cut a clean line when you sprayed it, shouldn't be that big of a deal. Use the 3M fine line tape, avaialble at auto body paint stores, to separate the color from the liner. Take your time. Lots of your time!
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. Should be going to the booth right after Christmas or the new year (depending on availability) I'll post pics when done.
 
As far as single stage paints go, check out urethane enamel , rather than acrylic enamel. Flows out nicely and it very hard once cured. The only problem we've had is fish eyes, so make sure you wipe it down well with wax and grease remover.


"i would say do a cheap base then do a couple of coats of clear. that way after you wheel it for a while you can just do a light wet sand and buff and it will look new again. "

That is not really an option. It is not as simple as applying a clearcoat over any old paint. You have to use compatible products. That being said, you could use a less expensive base/clear system such as DuPont's "Nason" products.
 
"i would say do a cheap base then do a couple of coats of clear. that way after you wheel it for a while you can just do a light wet sand and buff and it will look new again. "

That is not really an option. It is not as simple as applying a clearcoat over any old paint. You have to use compatible products. That being said, you could use a less expensive base/clear system such as DuPont's "Nason" products.

why is that not a option? You say the exact same thing I said. Only difference is I said use a couple coats of clear because some shops will only put down once coat of clear. One color sand and your clear is almost gone.
 
The key to a good paint job is preparation. It sounds like you've spent hours and hours doing that. Why would you skimp on materials after all that work, especially since you have access to a spray booth?
 
The key to a good paint job is preparation. It sounds like you've spent hours and hours doing that. Why would you skimp on materials after all that work, especially since you have access to a spray booth?

I agree here. I have fixed up a few 4x4 trucks although I'm on my first Cruiser. I always had to pay someone else to paint for me. Everytime I never skimped and had them go all out including clear coat. It seems to me if your going to do all this work well you should finish the project the same way.
 
paint

Paint color and prep go hand in hand, if you’re going to paint a darker color you’re going to need to do a lot more prep due to the fact that every imperfection will show with darker colors. And If you take the time to prep for a darker color you’re going to have so much time in to it you’re not going to take it into places you want to. I would fix the big stuff and paint single stage white… masks the little stuff and you can still use it.
 

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