Why?
Is there something about the 1KD that makes it not work with standard vacuum boosted brakes? Or are you just going hydroboost for other reasons?
Dan
RBx 88 4Runner D4D repower
- Thread starter RBxxx
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Why?
Is there something about the 1KD that makes it not work with standard vacuum boosted brakes? Or are you just going hydroboost for other reasons?
Dan
- Thread starter
- #42
Why?...Because i am sick of mediocre brake performance. The 1KD has a vacuum pump, and I assume runs the brake diaphragm just fine, but after installing hydroboost on my buddies 1968 C20 I'm sold. We upgraded his truck with disc up front and left the old drum anchors out back. With the hydroboost installed the old heap stops like a racecar, brakes are tight, effortless and controllable. I joke that if you hit the brakes too hard you will go through the wind screen. That is what I want!
My current brake setup is 98 Tacoma rotors and calipers in the front, and 81' Supra caliper on 83 Pickup rotors in the rear. The rear ebrake Supra calipers won't hold the truck on any sort of hill, so I have plans to upgrade to the newer style drum/rotor with caliper Toyota now runs on the FJ Cruiser 4Runner and LandCruiser to resolve the e-brake issue. i also have a master cylinder from a first gen tundra, yet my brakes lack confidence. I have had the larger master cylinder for year, and started with 4cyl calipers, then v6 calipers, and finally Tacomas. I have a dual diaphragm booster also. Each time I upgraded there was barely a noticeable difference, very disappointing. After we installed the hydroboost on the 68' I started researching the system, and saw some very impressive youtube videos of full size trucks running 38"s with the ability to lock up all four tires on hot sticky asphalt, and that is what I want.
My current brake setup is 98 Tacoma rotors and calipers in the front, and 81' Supra caliper on 83 Pickup rotors in the rear. The rear ebrake Supra calipers won't hold the truck on any sort of hill, so I have plans to upgrade to the newer style drum/rotor with caliper Toyota now runs on the FJ Cruiser 4Runner and LandCruiser to resolve the e-brake issue. i also have a master cylinder from a first gen tundra, yet my brakes lack confidence. I have had the larger master cylinder for year, and started with 4cyl calipers, then v6 calipers, and finally Tacomas. I have a dual diaphragm booster also. Each time I upgraded there was barely a noticeable difference, very disappointing. After we installed the hydroboost on the 68' I started researching the system, and saw some very impressive youtube videos of full size trucks running 38"s with the ability to lock up all four tires on hot sticky asphalt, and that is what I want.
Gotcha. Not that the 1KD has a problem with it's vacuum, but that you want to swap from vacuum to hyrdouboost. Got it.
I say skip all that and go gain brakes! The brakes on my dump truck will shove you into the windshield even loaded with 12+ tons of dirt!
Plus, you get that awesome hiss when you apply the parking brakes (which REALLY hold).
(joking, obviously--the hydroboost plans make sense to me now)
Dan
- Thread starter
- #44
the hiss would go well with the diesel sound...hahaha.
Just put in a free flow 3" exhaust. That will hiss plenty 
- Thread starter
- #46
^^^^ YES!! That is the plan.
- Thread starter
- #47
I need to order my main and connecting rod bearings soon before I install the engine. I have the part numbers for the bearings, but do i need to order OEM, or are there reputable companies I could get the same bearing from without the Toyota tariff?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
there are ways of buying OEM stuff that doesnt come in toyota boxes. a good reputable spares wholesaler could probably help you out
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks
I usually try to use OEM supplier parts for my vehicles instead of the restamped & tariffed parts from the manufacturer. I just don't know who makes the bearings. Maybe someone from the other side of the globe can chime in.
I usually try to use OEM supplier parts for my vehicles instead of the restamped & tariffed parts from the manufacturer. I just don't know who makes the bearings. Maybe someone from the other side of the globe can chime in.
- Thread starter
- #50
Been a while and now time to get crackin!
Some updates...
ECU was sent to Diesel Toys in TX for an ECU tune. Deleted the EGR and Immobilizer as well as added their mild tune to give more power and more MPG. After running the engine using TechStream I determined injector two would be failing soon, so sent the Injectors off to Baileys Diesel Group in Australia. After speaking with Simon, he told me that the main bearings are not a concern (as I was going to replace the mains) in these engines, but to switch out the hard fuel lines due to the mileage. So, new injectors (Stage 1 15% more flow), valve cover gaskets kit, fuel hard lines and suction control valve for the injection pump.
Valve cover off, the black gets on everything, its worse then anti-seize.
Injectors getting sent out to Baileys Diesel Group, going Stage 1 which has a 15% higher flow for a future mild tune.
Intake manifold nastiness. There is a butterfly valve on the circular cylinders, with about an 1/8" of soot and oil tacked onto it.
To deal with the black death...
Made a parts washer out of some bits we had laying around UnHoly Motorsports.
First pass with the parts cleaner, that is soot in the sink, about an 1/8" thick. This is all due to the EGR, cancer to diesel engines.
Engine back on engine stand for cleaning and maintenance. Will be rotating the engine to clean the intake ports on the head.
More to follow
Some updates...
ECU was sent to Diesel Toys in TX for an ECU tune. Deleted the EGR and Immobilizer as well as added their mild tune to give more power and more MPG. After running the engine using TechStream I determined injector two would be failing soon, so sent the Injectors off to Baileys Diesel Group in Australia. After speaking with Simon, he told me that the main bearings are not a concern (as I was going to replace the mains) in these engines, but to switch out the hard fuel lines due to the mileage. So, new injectors (Stage 1 15% more flow), valve cover gaskets kit, fuel hard lines and suction control valve for the injection pump.
Valve cover off, the black gets on everything, its worse then anti-seize.
Injectors getting sent out to Baileys Diesel Group, going Stage 1 which has a 15% higher flow for a future mild tune.
Intake manifold nastiness. There is a butterfly valve on the circular cylinders, with about an 1/8" of soot and oil tacked onto it.
To deal with the black death...
Made a parts washer out of some bits we had laying around UnHoly Motorsports.
First pass with the parts cleaner, that is soot in the sink, about an 1/8" thick. This is all due to the EGR, cancer to diesel engines.
Engine back on engine stand for cleaning and maintenance. Will be rotating the engine to clean the intake ports on the head.
More to follow
- Thread starter
- #51
This is a little old, but did mount the Hydroboost MC, although when I do the engine swap I am going to reposition the MC on the firewall since the arm that connects to the brake pedal is at a hard angle in order to clear my small shock towers, haha.
AN fitting adapter on the factory power steering pump
I am very excited to take the engine out and clean up the engine bay, brake lines and electricals. I will be using AN fittings for the entire hydroboost systemand a fdew cooling hoses on the engine swap.
more to come.
AN fitting adapter on the factory power steering pump
I am very excited to take the engine out and clean up the engine bay, brake lines and electricals. I will be using AN fittings for the entire hydroboost systemand a fdew cooling hoses on the engine swap.
more to come.
- Thread starter
- #52
Been a while and now time to get crackin!
Some updates...
ECU was sent to Diesel Toys in TX for an ECU tune. Deleted the EGR and Immobilizer as well as added their mild tune to give more power and more MPG. After running the engine using TechStream I determined injector two would be failing soon, so sent the Injectors off to Baileys Diesel Group in Australia. After speaking with Simon, he told me that the main bearings are not a concern (as I was going to replace the mains) in these engines, but to switch out the hard fuel lines due to the mileage. So, new injectors (Stage 1 15% more flow), valve cover gaskets kit, fuel hard lines and suction control valve for the injection pump.
Valve cover off, the black gets on everything, its worse then anti-seize.
Injectors getting sent out to Baileys Diesel Group, going Stage 1 which has a 15% higher flow for a future mild tune.
Intake manifold nastiness. There is a butterfly valve on the circular cylinders, with about an 1/8" of soot and oil tacked onto it.
To deal with the black death...
Made a parts washer out of some bits we had laying around UnHoly Motorsports.
First pass with the parts cleaner, that is soot in the sink, about an 1/8" thick. This is all due to the EGR, cancer to diesel engines.
Engine back on engine stand for cleaning and maintenance. Will be rotating the engine to clean the intake ports on the head.
More to follow
Some updates...
ECU was sent to Diesel Toys in TX for an ECU tune. Deleted the EGR and Immobilizer as well as added their mild tune to give more power and more MPG. After running the engine using TechStream I determined injector two would be failing soon, so sent the Injectors off to Baileys Diesel Group in Australia. After speaking with Simon, he told me that the main bearings are not a concern (as I was going to replace the mains) in these engines, but to switch out the hard fuel lines due to the mileage. So, new injectors (Stage 1 15% more flow), valve cover gaskets kit, fuel hard lines and suction control valve for the injection pump.
Valve cover off, the black gets on everything, its worse then anti-seize.
Injectors getting sent out to Baileys Diesel Group, going Stage 1 which has a 15% higher flow for a future mild tune.
Intake manifold nastiness. There is a butterfly valve on the circular cylinders, with about an 1/8" of soot and oil tacked onto it.
To deal with the black death...
Made a parts washer out of some bits we had laying around UnHoly Motorsports.
First pass with the parts cleaner, that is soot in the sink, about an 1/8" thick. This is all due to the EGR, cancer to diesel engines.
Engine back on engine stand for cleaning and maintenance. Will be rotating the engine to clean the intake ports on the head.
More to follow
- Thread starter
- #53
Did some cleaning on the head intake runners and welding the EGT bung into the exhaust manifold.
Welding on the cast manifold for the EGT bung
Welding on the cast manifold for the EGT bung
- Thread starter
- #55
I used a Gallon of Seafoam. Set valves to close, fill intake runners and let soak 24hrs. Comeback and used some wire brushes to agitate/scrape, rinse and repeat. It worked pretty well but still required some elbow grease. I also use a 1ltr pressurized Spray bottle. Just pump it up and good spray pressure for some stubborn parts.
- Thread starter
- #56
Did some cleaning....
Then did more cleaning...
then I decided to torture myself with just seeing where this lump needs to sit....
took some measurements (going to install an electric fan)...
The engine is not sitting in its permanent location, as I have discovered a few issues:
Then did more cleaning...
then I decided to torture myself with just seeing where this lump needs to sit....
took some measurements (going to install an electric fan)...
The engine is not sitting in its permanent location, as I have discovered a few issues:
- Oil pan hits the front diff at full stuff, i knew I would need to modify the oil pan and sump
- Engine mounts seem to be spaced wider and at a slightly different angle on the frame when compared to the mount angle and spacing on the engine
- Fab up new mounts to shove engine back about 1", and up another 1.5'.....sooooo.....
- While I'm at it may as well do a drive-train lift, so time to hack into the horse collar
- Vacuum pump in the front of the engine will be very close to the fan shroud, may have to clearance a shroud
- Thread starter
- #57
today we clean the/organize the operating room before surgery. Then I'll remove the trans and get after the 5th gear OD mod since I'll need to order the gears. After the trans removal I'll remove the wheels and drop the whole truck on 6x6s and rmove the coil overs. This will be easier to work on.
Did some cleaning....
Then did more cleaning...
then I decided to torture myself with just seeing where this lump needs to sit....
took some measurements (going to install an electric fan)...
The engine is not sitting in its permanent location, as I have discovered a few issues:
- Oil pan hits the front diff at full stuff, i knew I would need to modify the oil pan and sump
- Engine mounts seem to be spaced wider and at a slightly different angle on the frame when compared to the mount angle and spacing on the engine
- Fab up new mounts to shove engine back about 1", and up another 1.5'.....sooooo.....
- While I'm at it may as well do a drive-train lift, so time to hack into the horse collar
- Vacuum pump in the front of the engine will be very close to the fan shroud, may have to clearance a shroud
- Thread starter
- #58
Made some motor mounts...1.5" drive-train lift, and back .75". Next will be modifying the horse collar.
Cool project - even stock that’d be a major upgrade let alone bigger injectors and a remap!
Just a thought on your vacuum pump though - why are you keeping it? If you don’t need it for brakes why doing you just remove it and blank the hole? That’s what I did with my 1HD-FTE as it was only used for powering the egr valve. I made a blank plate and block the oil line. Now there’s one less component to potentially fail and destroy the front gear train (have seen photos of exactly this happening)
Just a thought on your vacuum pump though - why are you keeping it? If you don’t need it for brakes why doing you just remove it and blank the hole? That’s what I did with my 1HD-FTE as it was only used for powering the egr valve. I made a blank plate and block the oil line. Now there’s one less component to potentially fail and destroy the front gear train (have seen photos of exactly this happening)
here's someone who hasn't had to adjust the e-brake on a landcruiser. Get em working, then first trip off-road, the ebrake becomes allergic to dust or something and stop being usefulCool project though.
A work mate let me go for spin in his chipped and tuned hilux with D4D engine and it was surprisingly powerful.