RBx 88 4Runner D4D repower

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No Start Weekend
Just didn't have enough time to get her cranked since I still need to ground the harness to the cradle and retrace the harness to make sure everything is plugged in correctly. Also need to rig up a fuel tank, but that is just some hose and a container since no in-tank pump. A few pictures of the spaghetti.

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Not much progress, couldn't get it started, didn't have a strong enough battery or jumpers. But I did build a ghetto fab stand for the laptop and cleaned the fuel sock. The sludge that was inside almost felt granular.

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this is a great idea. and one im sure many of us have had... 1KD in a 45 is my personal one ;) but seeing someone actually pull the trigger... nice :popcorn:
 
Thanks guys. it was an amazing sound to hear it fire. truth be told it took quite a few cranks to get it to fire the first time and heaps of smokey exhaust. Im going to get it up to operating temp and watch the vitals this sunday. Then its time to tear into it for a freshen up, egr mod and wiring.
 
nice sounding engine. man, i can hear a 1KD start up from a mile away, so distinctive
 
Wel, pouring over wiring schematics to see what I can delete and what needs to stay brought me to the deletion of the SRS(airbag) system.
Since I have no need for the SRS ECU all the unnecessary junk needs to go with it. However, the pesky airbag light will stay lit on the cluster. Most forums say to remove the bulb, however, Toyota used an LED and i am not sure exactly what that little diode may impact if deleted from the cluster. Luckily, Toyota was very nice and sold non-SRS models in some countries that used the same ECU I have (Connectors E5(A),E6(B),E7(C),E8(D)). Toyota simply left the pin#19 on the Combination Meter(gauge cluster) connector absent if the vehicle came equipped with SRS as mine did. I discovered the other day that if I just make pin19 ground on the cluster, SRS light turns off. This may also work on other Toyota models but I can only verify my Aussie MK6 2006 Hilux. Ill try to get a diagram up if needed, but it is very simple, infact you can jump pin 19(white/black stripe) to the ABS pin #38(Red/Green stripe) wire on the gauge cluster as it also goes to ground.
 
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Deleted the entire SRS system from the wire loom. To defeat the airbag light I just opened the cluster up and soldered pin 19 and 38 together, now no more annoying airbag light.
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whats the displacement?
 
Gauge Cluster Concept....
Going from KMs to MPH, I could buy a gauge cluster face, but what fun would that be....so I think I will make my own. Pretty confident I can get my buddy to cut up some vinyl for this project.
Stock DLX , no cruise light, no DRL, no Fog, and useless Auto Transmission lights.
Set it on my scanner for tracing...
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Hold it up to the light to capture all the idiot lights
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I want a simple easy to read cluster, I do not want a video game display like most modern cars, I could have made the face way more flashy and I did go through some variations, but I like this the best.
New concept, idiot lights 'OFF', adding cruise LED, and Lockers LED (not sure if splitting the icon for the lockers across two LEDs will work or not). Also deleted the SRS/Airbag light.
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New concept, idiot lights 'ON'
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And Adding cruise....
Not that I'm that organized in my thread posts anyhow, but this thread is about to go all over the place while I finish the wiring harness revamp. I'm bored so I am going forward with some other small projects that are mostly independent of the engine swap, except this one.....cruise control. Cruise is important for me because I don't trailer my rig, I've spent over 9hrs straight in the driver's seat, and cruise is a necessity.
My MK6 Hilux engine was a DLX, so no dimmer(rheostat), locker(s), fog lights or cruise control.
Cruise control on most ODB2 Toyotas use the same switch stalk for cruise set and reset, lucky for me throttle by wire Toyotas only require the switch stalk and an LED in the cluster....
Cruise stalk from a local yard...check! $18
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SMD 1206 LED in the mail....
 
So along with cruise, I want to install a high-idle knob/switch/attenuator/potentiometer for winching, warm-up or crawling.
Needs to be 2-pole switch and capture the VPA1 and VPA2 wires on the accelerator pedal.
Like this, but actually finished and only one potentiometer.


Wiring, and test data
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Want to buy Dual Case Adapter
I may end up buying a new dual case adapter for this build, but I'd entertain a used setup. I already have the cases but need an adapter to double them up. Currently both cases are 21-spline.
let me know what you have and where you are located.
 
No real update, working on some hydroboost brake conversion at the moment.
 
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