Good point. I remember being told the same thing when I was looking at the BFG A/Ts for my old 100.
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Good point. I remember being told the same thing when I was looking at the BFG A/Ts for my old 100.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Dunno. There's some discrepancies. Both places the E's were cheaper than the D's, Discount said they were being phased out, but Costco had them available. BFG's website still shows them listed too. The D's get the snowflake for being factory siped.
I wish the GY Duratracs weren't so much more, I would have liked to tried them.
I wish the GY Duratracs weren't so much more, I would have liked to tried them.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Question about the CDL!
So I can engage my cdl with no issues, the problem is disengaging it. I have to put the truck in reverse for it to disengage! On the other hand, my dad's 03 engages and disengages with the push of the button! I know my dad's hundy is newer but is there some kind of way to fix my faulty CDL?
So I can engage my cdl with no issues, the problem is disengaging it. I have to put the truck in reverse for it to disengage! On the other hand, my dad's 03 engages and disengages with the push of the button! I know my dad's hundy is newer but is there some kind of way to fix my faulty CDL?
Don't know if anyone is interested but Discount Tire has a $60 BFG rebate deal going on right now on any set of BFG's. Also found DT has 285/75/16's in load range D selling for $852 shipped on ebay, so you should be able to get a set for about $800 out the door with the rebate. Best deal I've seen lately, thought I would mention it, I think I'm going to go ahead and buy a set although I had planned to wait a bit.
(One item of note, their website says it's a $50 rebate, but the form says it's a $60 rebate, so I don't know which is correct).
(One item of note, their website says it's a $50 rebate, but the form says it's a $60 rebate, so I don't know which is correct).
Actually I noticed they are cheaper on Discount Tire's website by about $25 vs. Ebay. Bought mine for $824 shipped, $774 after the rebate. I don't know what kind of deals the rest of you have gotten, but this was about $100 less than my last set. With the price of oil driving up costs on tire manufacturing and shipping this seemed like a good time to buy.
Anyone have a good photo of the undercarriage of a 100 series LC, preferably a 1999 or something close?
Speaking as a new LC owner that is mechanically challenged, it sure would be nice to have a visual reference for all the shop talk here on the forums.
Speaking as a new LC owner that is mechanically challenged, it sure would be nice to have a visual reference for all the shop talk here on the forums.
Most of us try to take pictures. But, in the middle of projects we always forget. A good idea if you haven't done so already is to pick up the fsm for your rig. Or at least download the off. Lots of diagrams in it for you.
I grew up always reversing when switching in any truck I drove. I was always told it was good for the gears to reverse after I switch from 4 Low or after I disengage a locker. In my dad's old truck when you put it in 4 Low you had to first switch to 4 High, back up, then put it in 2 and back up again just to get it out of four wheel drive. Growing up doing this, I just carried the habit over to my Land Cruiser. After you disengage the CDL or switch out of 4 Low, I would personally reverse if I was you. I wouldn't consider it a bad thing and just continue to do so.
Couldn't really find a place to put this.... I have my BOIR rear bumper installed (still working on the install write up). However, due to issues with my frame (not Mikes Bumper) mounting the driver's side wing support is not going to happen as intended by Mike. One of the welded nuts inside the frame broke loose when removing my factory bumper and the other welded nut inside the frame is bent up and away from the hole. To get the wing support installed, I am thinking I need to do one of two things:
(a) weld the wing support directly to the frame
(b) Drill new holes in the wing support and frame and source new longer bolts that go through the entire frame and secure it with nuts and washers....
Thoughts? My initial is having it welded onto the frame is probably the best idea.
Also, anyone local to San Francisco able to help? or can you recommend a place to get it welded on?
(a) weld the wing support directly to the frame
(b) Drill new holes in the wing support and frame and source new longer bolts that go through the entire frame and secure it with nuts and washers....
Thoughts? My initial is having it welded onto the frame is probably the best idea.
Also, anyone local to San Francisco able to help? or can you recommend a place to get it welded on?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! So, is is there no way to reach thru the frame from a nearly hole to hold a nut and lockwasher on the back of the frame where the nut is now missing? If you fingers aren't long enough, you can put some tape over the back of a box end wrench to hold the nut on while you dangle it way back inside the frame. John
Is the welded nut you're referring to the same ones that are used for the tow hooks? Couldn't you just have new nuts welded on? Or are you talking about nuts deeper in the frame tube that are not accessible?
Sorry, not familiar with the install points of the bumper, however I have a similar problem where I stripped the threads in the nut that's welded to the frame and I was planning to remove the stripped one and weld a new nut on instead. I assumed it's not a big deal to repair...?
Are these the nuts you're referring to (got this pic from post #2, pic #2 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/294772-penny-getting-luked-4x4labs-rear-bumper.html):
Sorry, not familiar with the install points of the bumper, however I have a similar problem where I stripped the threads in the nut that's welded to the frame and I was planning to remove the stripped one and weld a new nut on instead. I assumed it's not a big deal to repair...?
Are these the nuts you're referring to (got this pic from post #2, pic #2 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/294772-penny-getting-luked-4x4labs-rear-bumper.html):
hovers around 35-40*F, silent, lightweight and very simple. Cheap at 80 bucks even. Can't complain. Can use in inside or in the rig. Fits perfectly in the 100. Doesn't block the view and will come in handy. Now it's dual bat time. The 3rd row handle pushes the top down and pinches it. Doesn't budge. Still going to drill the sides and anchor it. When I go camping I can plop some dry ice in the bottom to help assist the 100*F+ GA days. I have 90 days to see if it's up to the task. It's light enough to carry inside and use it in there too, than throw it in the back.
The only way to reach through the bumper is to completely remove the rear bumper or to cut new holes in the frame. That would make it easy to get one of the nuts back on. But the bumper needs to be installed before installing the wing supports. I thought about trying that. But, if you look at the picture Agaisin posted, that little plate that is welded to the frame and then the two nuts are welded to... well there is another one of those deeper inside. One of the nuts broke loose. The other side of the plate that hold the other nut appears to be bent up and away from the hole. I will attempt to post a picture of what it looks like.
Is the welded nut you're referring to the same ones that are used for the tow hooks? Couldn't you just have new nuts welded on? Or are you talking about nuts deeper in the frame tube that are not accessible?
Sorry, not familiar with the install points of the bumper, however I have a similar problem where I stripped the threads in the nut that's welded to the frame and I was planning to remove the stripped one and weld a new nut on instead. I assumed it's not a big deal to repair...?
Are these the nuts you're referring to (got this pic from post #2, pic #2 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/294772-penny-getting-luked-4x4labs-rear-bumper.html):
The two nuts further inside. The two in your picture were perfect on both sides. Those are used to hold the main portion of the bumper on.
Let me try to link this photo:
As you can see the one welded nut is gone and the other is completely out of alignment. You cant tell from the pic but it is also bent up and away.
EDIT: [STRIKE]That didnt work... I was trying to link Picasa... am uploading to tiny pic now... will relink in a bit... dinner time.[/STRIKE]
Pics up.... and a teaser pic.... more will be in the build thread I am writing...
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Ahh - I think I know the ones you're talking about. Would still like to see a picture for curiosity's sake. PITA, not sure how one would go about fixing it other than what you already suggested.
Wish I knew more about pros cons ... just thinking out loud here - if you drilled new holes through the tube would that risk collapsing or compromising the structural integrity of the tube frame?
In other words, if you are using a long thru bolts to pass through the box tube frame, I think it's possible you could crush/collapse the rectangular frame tube when tightening the bolts, and perhaps it could compromise the integrity of the frame or create a vulnerability if you had a fender bender down the line to cause more frame damage than otherwise would occur? If you're going that route I think some people would use a spacer tube in the frame rail to prevent that from happening. I could be overthinking it and way off base, just something that came to mind..
Wish I knew more about pros cons ... just thinking out loud here - if you drilled new holes through the tube would that risk collapsing or compromising the structural integrity of the tube frame?
In other words, if you are using a long thru bolts to pass through the box tube frame, I think it's possible you could crush/collapse the rectangular frame tube when tightening the bolts, and perhaps it could compromise the integrity of the frame or create a vulnerability if you had a fender bender down the line to cause more frame damage than otherwise would occur? If you're going that route I think some people would use a spacer tube in the frame rail to prevent that from happening. I could be overthinking it and way off base, just something that came to mind..
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inkpot
SILVER Star
OK, so if they are deeper inside the frame, could you just tack a nut onto a piece of scrap, maybe angle iron, that is long enough to hold onto and reach down to the right position? I've had to do a lot of blind fab like that. It is a royal pain. I would not want to run a bolt thru both sides of the frame and draw it down without an internal spacer. You could pinch/tweek the frame. John
Updated the pics above.
Thanks for the thoughts about running bolts all the way through. That was the same concerns I had. Looks like getting it welded is the best route. Problem with trying to hold something in there while I tighten it up is I have to have the bumper off or cut holes in the frame. Tightening the wings up is the last thing you do after tightening up the rest of the bumper... so That doesnt work.
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- #419
yea it is
Is it me or is your side wall bubbling? Just looking out for you, but that is rather dangerous. On the bolt solution, can't you just open that hole up with a drill and call it a day?
Otherwise looks awesome!
Interesting idea... I would still need to get the welded nut out of the way.... any cons to drilling two holes in the frame??
Educate me on bubbling..... I hadn't noticed and have never heard of the dangers...
