Random 100 Semi-Tech Chat Thread (1 Viewer)

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Interesting idea... I would still need to get the welded nut out of the way.... any cons to drilling two holes in the frame??

Educate me on bubbling..... I hadn't noticed and have never heard of the dangers...

Tire Tech Information - Sidewall Separations/Bubbles


Past experience indicates that a sidewall separation/bubble caused by component contamination or incomplete bonding during manufacturing will appear within the first six months of service. Fortunately these separations/bubbles typically appear when they are small in size and before the tire's strength is substantially reduced. However since typical tires roll about 800 times every mile and the air pressure inside the tire is greater than outside, tire separations/bubbles that are unseen or ignored will continue to grow in size, further reduce strength, often generate noise and vibration, and ultimately lead to tire failure as the tire stretches under load (similar to the way that continuously bending a paperclip back and forth will cause it to weaken and break). However there is one last thing to remember; while a separation/bubble early in a tire's life is usually associated with a manufacturing condition, even a single, significant impact with a deep pothole or sharp curb can cause a new tire and wheel to be damaged.


If your spare is in good shape I would run that, throw the "bubbled" tire on the bumper and use it ONLY as a trail spare. I would not drive on that.
 
if it's not tire bubble, could just be curb rash/dirt on the tire.


Mxndrnks, I have the same problem with the nuts on the front end of my 100. I had FRBs installed and decided to take em off and in the process of undoing the bolts, a few of the nuts snapped off in the frame. So now when it comes time to install an ARB front, I'll have to grind off the capped ends and get them nuts and try to re-weld em back or something.
 
Always lube your nuts and bolts up with something like fluid film, pb blaster, etc... Let it sit and come back to it... Helps keep things from breaking, stripping, etc... I really like Fluid Film and am currently out but you can pickup PB Blaster almost anywhere, even Wally World...
 
Anyone know what a fair price is for an ARB locker install parts + labor ?
 
Agaisin, There are oval holes all over the frame like that... an existing hole might be near already.
 
Wow - creative and should do the trick (as long as you have/make the hole on the side to put the bracket through and a 3rd hole [b/w the two weld nut holes] on the bottom for the wire that goes inb/w the weld nuts that is used to keep the bracket in place).
That looks like a good method. I was thinking of going in through a large hole cut into the side of the frame, which would then need to be properly patched when the nuts are in place.

Using the wire method I would drill a couple more holes though, one between each bolt hole and the centre wire hole, then put the bracket in, tighten the bolts down, and weld the small bracket to the frame through my two extra holes.

The bracket and nuts will then stay in place if I ever needed to undo those bolts again.

Interesting. The problem is the fact that the current frame nut bracket is bent. I wonder if it's tack-welded on the bottom where the center wire is fed through? Hmmm.. I'll have to take another look and see if I might be able to drill out the weld - if there is one.
Bamachem, put a cold chisel on an extension bar of some sort, and you could knock the old bracket off the frame, then drag it out with some wire, a magnet, or whatever. Drilling could be a bit hit and miss.

Of course, if there is some residual weld in the way of the new nut bracket, the side of the frame will have to be opened up enough to grind off the dags, in which case a new nut bracket can be welded in through this large hole, which would then need to be patched.

Just thinking aloud here. :)
 
I need input.... I changed out my driver side CV/drive shaft this past weekend. I have put in a few miles on it and everything feels great! No leaks, etc... was parking yesterday facing downhill. I curb mile wheels downhill and to the left. I notice a significant drop in the front end (3-6") when curbing the wheel. I have never noticed this before. Does this seem normal? If not... what should I be looking at? Thanks!
 
you mean, like...come apart after putting in the oven like you're about to do to your headlights? Maybe, doubt it.
 
you mean, like...come apart after putting in the oven like you're about to do to your headlights? Maybe, doubt it.

Yes, I already opened up the extra headlights that I had. I am scared to retrofit them because it has wierd shapes inside! So I thought I should practice on the fog lamps. Scared to put the fog lights in the oven because the lens is plastic...
 
Speaking of fog lights. I seem to have a bit of condensation in one them. Is there a quick and dirty way to get out the moisture and seal them back up to prevent further leakage?
 
Montana Sig said:
Speaking of fog lights. I seem to have a bit of condensation in one them. Is there a quick and dirty way to get out the moisture and seal them back up to prevent further leakage?

There is a condensation/water drain on the back. I filled mine with water and shook it up, got *most* of the dirt out. Let sit in sun and then plug the drain on the back. There is a little rubber hose tha faces downwards, both mine fell off and they would fill up with water coming from the wheel
 
RTV silicone where the lens and black plastic meet!
It's always the easiest answer, isn't it? :D
Thank you!
There is a condensation/water drain on the back. I filled mine with water and shook it up, got *most* of the dirt out. Let sit in sun and then plug the drain on the back. There is a little rubber hose tha faces downwards, both mine fell off and they would fill up with water coming from the wheel

And once again, reaffirming why MUD is such an invaluable piece of teh intarwebz. Thanks for the help!
 
I am wondering if there is another place I should be checking besides the T connectors by the firewall for antifreeze leaks. I had my coolant flushed about a month and half ago, and I am still smelling burnt fluid. At first I just let it go since I figured some might have spilled on the engine during the change. But now after this long it is making me wonder.

I never find any puddles or drips under the car, but it still smell like fresh burning / hot radiator fluid. I did check those "T" connectors I read about in another thread. Also my reservoir only seems to be losing fluid at a very small rate, like maybe its barely lost a centimeter or two. I can only tell this because it was just barely over the fill line when they were done, and now its just barely under.

Any thoughts, or can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks for your time.
 
Sooooooo, got some minor scars from Moab last week, wonder if it is time to join the black wheel club... :hmm: :flipoff2:
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