Ran into problem while upgrading caliper...ARGH (1 Viewer)

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RBA

Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Threads
16
Messages
106
Location
Morgan Hill, California
Hi,

I'm in the process of trying to upgrade my brakes including new rotors, calipers and pads.

The nut for the hard line into the caliper is on tight and I'm beginning to strip the nut. A 9mm wrench doesn't work, a 10mm fits but slips off with pressure. I tried a flare wrench but that slipped off also. I'm concerned any more gorilla tactics will strip it further. I sprayed it PB blaster yesterday and today (taking care not to get it on to the brake components).

Any advice on what to do? I don't have a torch but I do have a heat gun, not sure how hot I can get it.


 
Vise grips are my go-to in your case. Then you may or may not have to replace the line afterwards. You can always cut and reflare it too with one of those tools you rent from Napa. But a good pair of Vise grips with big teeth that are super tight on the nut won't strip it any further and should remove it. You can always apply a little heat too if you only wanna use the wrench.
 
Vise grips are my go-to in your case. Then you may or may not have to replace the line afterwards. You can always cut and reflare it too with one of those tools you rent from Napa. But a good pair of Vise grips with big teeth that are super tight on the nut won't strip it any further and should remove it. You can always apply a little heat too if you only wanna use the wrench.

Please don't start out with this technique. Take your time, let it soak and just stop if you feel it start to go. it will come out eventually. Make sure you apply anti-sieze when you put it back together.
 
jamister is probably right about reaching for the vise grips at this point.

Luckily those short pieces of brake tube are still available (I think).

Snap-On makes a specialty 10mm offset flare wrench with a much thicker head. It will never strip a hex. It can be used for all the brake compression fittings. It's the wrench I use.

LINK

image.jpeg
 
Yup, get a more expensive flare wrench, and buy a torch- both are relatively cheap.
I've got two sets of flare wrenches and it's amazing how differently they fit- one is cheap and the other is less cheap :)

If you think about going the vise grip route, you may as well just get a new brake line first, cut the old brake line and use a socket to get the flare nut off. If you put the vise grip tight enough to not slip off the nut, it is likely crushing and deforming it, with a resulting leak if you reuse it.
 
Yeah, don't start with the Vise grips but if you're in a desperate situation they do work. Once those brake nuts start rounding I've rarely had success with anything else. Making a new brake line is super easy to do too and usually costs less than $10.
 
Thanks Guys!

I ordered the Snap-on flare wrench...if it works it will be worth it...The most expensive wrench I've ever purchased. :)
 
Thanks Guys!

I ordered the Snap-on flare wrench...if it works it will be worth it...The most expensive wrench I've ever purchased. :)
O'Reilly's sells the wrench you need for $6.

PowerTorque Tools GM0040 - Flare Nut Wrench | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Bernzomatic TS3000KC Self Igniting Torch Kit-336626 - The Home Depot


Also get a small blow torch and gently heat the threads for about 30 seconds, then copiously spray in some WD40. Then Heat again.

As a method to remove the caliper brake line fitting I like to gently tap the end of the wrench a few times with a small hammer instead of trying to muscle it out of there. This is how I keep from destroying 30+ year old brake fittings.
 
I ran into this same issue while rebuilding my front axle a few weeks ago. The Snap-on flare wrench sounds like the best way to go. What I have had good luck with is using vise grips to clamp the end of my cheapo 10mm flare wrench so that it doesn't "flare" open. This method has served me well, but I should splurge for the nice wrench. Anti-seize upon reassembly is helpful, only a small amount is needed.
 
Thanks for the tip. I might try that.

While we're on the topic of tools, what's the correct/best snap ring pliers when doing an axle rebuild? I have a generic/cheapo c-clip pliers and they are worthless in getting the snap ring out.
 
This is the profile you are looking for. My pliers are a cheaper version of this and they work well.
716hbYpJ-CL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I probably have a spare stock hard line sitting in my garage that I can ship you. pm me if you need it. I went custom SS lines after my SOA lift and stock brake parts are useless to me.
 
You should buy the snapon wrench for sure, it's awesome, and you'll need it again sometime. But for now I'd use vise grips and don't worry about trashing that nut. As part of your upgrade you should ditch the hardline and replace it with a longer softline that goes right to the axle. Then going forward pad changes/knuckle repairs/etc will be way easier.
 
I will add this to the mix because it's worked every time for me.

HexForce « Product Categories « AGS Company

HF-10-420x395.png


It pivots open, around the tube, then closes for a 360* fit around the flare nut and torque with a 3/8" ratchet or breaker.

That being said, I'm gonna buy one of those wrenches Output linked to 'cuz they're so damn good looking ! :smokin:
 
Ok, that thing is COOL.

I have also manged to re- use brake lines after vice- gripping them off- but I don't like it, not one little bit.

And the cheap flare wrench with vice- grips does work, too- I even ground the flare wrench down a bit, to help
it flex.

t
 
I have good quality vise grip type pliers and cheap flare nut wrenches. I've had good luck using the vise grip pliers over the flare nut wrench to keep it from spreading. Vise grips I use all the time and spend the money. Flare nut wrenches not nearly as much and spend less.:meh:
 
craftsman and many others sell sets of line wrenches...although on cruisers you only need two or three sizes of them.
good versions will twist the line off before they round the nut off.
 

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