Radiator Upgrades (1 Viewer)

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Brian,

Didn't mean to come off as saying you are incorrect on the IC situation, if I did, sorry. You are definitely right, I would much rather have a proper IC set-up than water injection. Just that for this application, I don't know that the delta T on an air/air IC would be worth the pressure drop. I could most certainly be wrong as I have not tried on a LC (if I had a quarter for everytime one of my *theories* didn't work in practice). :D I've yet to see a good a/a IC that didn't cost you 1-2psi in the extra piping and flow across the heat exchanger. I'm sure there's one out there, just I have not come accross it yet. The a/a I have on my turbo car is a pretty well designed one (designed by Corky Bell himself) and still hits me for a little under 2psi. &nbsp:Does not matter there though as I run about 12psi and the turbo I have is pretty efficient up to about 18psi.

The a/w IC's are really attractive. Very little to no pressure drop can be achieved and a/w's are very popular with SC's. Just the only one I'm aware of would run me close to $1,000 if I built it. It's a Spearco unit and I'd be happy to run through how the basic design works if anyone is interested. There's surely other ones out there that we could make work though......Laminova makes a great one.....I just don't know where to get it/cost. ???

As far as CON's for water injection. Sure there are some. First, it's a pain re-filling the water tank all the time. You'd likely be surprised how little water it takes, but if you're like Bill (who sounds like he's under boost all the time), it will likely become an irritation. Second, where do you put the water tank?? That's a really good question that I don't have an answer for yet. I've seen them under the hood, in fender wells, & in the trunk. Probably pros and cons to all these locations. The smaller the water tank, the easier it is to locate, the larger the tank, the less times you have to refill it. Hmmm..... I will likely try to put mine under the hood, after working on a Miata for a while the LC has got TONS of room under there! :D See if you think you can fit anything else under my Miata's hood:
http://miata.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=213822&page=4

The first 2 pictures are my current turbo set-up with an a/a IC and the bottom picture is my old supercharger set-up with an a/w IC. Finally, the last con I can think of for water injection is I have heard that the system could *burp*, expell too much water at one time and hydrolock the motor. :eek: I've not seen an actual case of this myself, but it could happen. To combat this possibility, I plan on getting a quality WI unit, using distilled water to keep it clean and likely bypassing the unit when its not really warm outside or I'm not towing.

Bill - funny you mention your wife had a Miata. They are commonly referred to as "girlie" cars! :D My car has a whopping 1.6L 4 banger that put out 116hp stock. Mine now puts out 250+hp on stock internals. It's funny to me that little 2200 lb car puts out more hp than my cruiser currently does! :dunno: To answer your question as to why I would choose that particular water injection unit for the 4.5 LC, its just one that I know works well. It's a solid basic unit. It's made my aquamist www.aquamist.com. Aquamist units can be purchased from multiple vendors. Jackson Racing (the company that makes Eaton supercharger systems for Miatas, Hondas & Acuras) sells a unit too:http://www.jacksonracing.com/pages/partsmiata.html
It's all the way over to thr right of the screen. It's the same Aquamist unit though just in a pretty red color. I'd bet places like JCWhitney or Summitt Racing sell similar units. I'll likely buy from the original link I posted only because I trust those people and they have great product knowledge.

Dan - yes, it's a knock preventer. If fact that's really the whole point is to lower the charge temp and prevent detonation so that you can run more timing and get more power (can you say run-on sentence??). In fact, alcohol mixed in with the water should have a very wide mis-fire range and could produce a little more power while reducing knock. In *theory* of course.

Dan - As to how often to re-fill. That depends on how often you are in boost and how big of a tank you get. If you are in boost a lot or get a small tank, you *could* have to refill as often as you fill up for gas....you could go a month.

Now for the qualifiers. Guys, I in no way hold myself out to be an expert on this stuff. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just stupid enough to have wasted a ton of time and money playing with this crap over the years. As a result of racing my car I have been exposed to a lot of different type forced induction systems. I belong to a small car racing club and our current group has 5 aftermarket turbo systems and 3 aftermarket SC systems. All of which are a little different, all of which our group installed and push to and past their limits.

As of today, there is no SC system on my truck. It's in transit from www.toyotaguys.com. This thread was started as an information sharing deal on what my plans are. &nbsp:Dan & Bill, I would hate for you to run out and purchase something because of me, that I have not tried yet myself. Hopefully within the next month I will have the SC and water injection installed and will be able to answer questions with real data and not just my theories.

Damn.....that was a long post.....Woody will probably kick me off this board for taking up too much room!! :D

Mike

PS - Don't you think I should get credit for more than one post for this one?
 
Mike,
Thanks a ton. When you live in the dark so long any spark will seem like the sun.
Bill
 
Mike,

Bill's already got his welding hood on...... :bow:

I'm right behind him, waiting my turn........ :bow:
 
Dan and Bill,

One other thing I forgot to mention. Those WI systems generally don't come with a water supply tank. I'll likley be heading to the salvage yard and getting a windsheild washer fluid tank from *junkyard jewel* to use for mine. I'm sure if I wander around long enough I can find one that will suit me. If not, I may use a go-cart fuel tank or the like......you just have to be creative here.

Once I get the whole thing set-up, I'll make sure I post pictures, details, etc. If for some reason you guys decide to beat me too it, please do likewise. :D

Mike

PS - Here's a link with some more good reading on water injection along with info, etc of how several people have set them up with Eaton blowers: http://www.sebringmiata.com/page20.html
 
Hey Mike,

Not an issue... this is how good things happen!

Your Miaita looks sweet under there, good job.

The real key to a good IC that won't blow bank is to find a good oem unit in a salvage yard. They also come up on ebay all the time. I snagged a Celica air/water unit for my 4-Runner, $100. Looks stock, and it is, sort of.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! Try the oil cooler. I had my VR6 Corrado running 10psi on pistons that were probably 11 to 1 comp. Supercharged, intercooled via air/air... no high temps, NO KNOCK (even when 90+ outside), 93 octane pump gas.

Spraying cool oil on the piston bottoms will pull all that heat right out of your engine. It is F1 tech from the late 70's early 80's - it works!
 
Brian,

I have an oil cooler on my car, I agree, works great. Cools the oil, plus an added benefit is the total engine oil capacity goes up which helps with the cooling. The only thing is, the one I have is kind of cheap and does not have a thermostat in it. It's fine for the car as it's never driven in non-ideal situations. Where's a good place to look for a high capacity oil cooler with a thermostat? I bet some place like Summitt would have something, I've just never looked.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Setrab/Mocal are one of the best coolers... BAT inc will have those and the t-stat adapter plates. I like Aeroquip lines, Earls are good.... you'll probably want at least #10 fittings and line, #12 may be better. Expect $250 - $300 total, worth every .01.

bakerprecision.com batinc.com are just a few dealers. Shop around.
 
Dan and Bill,

Just checked tracking, with any luck, both the water injection and blower should be in my hands by Friday of next week. :bow: I've got kind of a crappy schedule for a couple weeks, but hopefully I'll have everything running and some details/pictures for you by the end of the month.

Mike
 
Mike,

I wrote myself a bunch of cribs when I did my blower. PM me if you are interested in a copy........

Regards....Dan :beer: :beer: (2 pints low)
 
I have been reading this thread and am pretty interested in what you guys are Talking about. Keep me posted. I put a TRD sc in my 80 in december, and have only run it in cool air temps, so I don't know how it will perform in the summer. We only get a couple of weeks of  90+, if that every year but I will be towing a 18' I/O with a small block chev over the mountains. Water injection sounds interesting. By the way when I click on the aquamist link, I get a hydroponics web site. mts whatcha smokin? :D Ahh, I think this is the site we want, http://www.aquamist,co.uk/ .
Regards,
Sean
 
Ooops, yep I listed the wrong address.......need to lay off the crack. :D CrusinGa listed it correctly. Lot's of good info on that site. Here's another one that lists the different kits available http://www.interex.co.uk/aquamist.html

I got the 1s kit and will run a 3.5psi boost trigger. It's the most basic kit, but should be more than adequate for what I need.

Install info and pics coming soon.

Mike
 
Mike,
What size jets did you decide on and how many? How did you make the decision? Where did you decide to place the jets - close to the SC or close to the manifold? How much money do you have in the bank? What is the size of ....................? :D
Bill
 
......................the water tank? :slap:
 
Mike,
What size jets did you decide on and how many? How did you make the decision? Where did you decide to place the jets - close to the SC or close to the manifold? How much money do you have in the bank? What is the size of ....................?  :D
Bill

Bill,

Well, this is still in the planning stages. I am going to use 1 jet, .5mm. I am planning on placing the jet closer the SC. My bank account is minus $2900 for the SC and another $500 for the WI. :D The #6 fund is suffering. :'(

As for the water tank...well... :dunno: Got a couple ideas, but as it stands right now I am heading to the junkyard, looking for a wiper bottle off a junker, hoping for inspiration. ??? Well, that and I am walking through a big local lawn mower parts place, looking for lawnmower gas tanks. I'm just going to try to find something as big as possible that will fit. The most likely place is right next to the current wiper fluid bottle under the hood. But, I'd love to find something I could sneak under the front bumber and still get fairly easy access to.

As for why I chose the .5mm nossel.....well, trial and error. They are available down to .1mm and also much larger. The .5mm is "standard" and is a pretty small. It's the same set-up a couple friends have with 6-8psi eaton blowers and works well. As for why close to the SC, I'd like to hit the charge coming out of the blower at its warmest and give maximum time for the moisture to dissapate before the manifold. At least that's the plan, I could also see an argument for closer to the manifold. Again it will be trail and error, but basing most of this off other systems I have seen work well.

I'd like to use as little water as possible to ensure no detonation and cool the charge a little. Westach makes a dual air temp gauge I'd like to get and place probes before and after the nozzel to watch the delta T on different set-ups(that gauge is generally used before/after an intercooler). However, the gauge is about $100 so I may wait a little while on it.

Based on my schedule right now, most likely install date(s) for all this crap is either 4/19 or 4/26.

Mike :beer:
 
Funny, I'm on another email list and some guy just installed water injection on his high boost turbo(in addition to an intercooler) and won't shut up about how much he likes it. He got a question from someone about decreasing EGT's with it and he indicated he's seeing 100-125 degree drops in EGT's. He also posted the following links for information purposes....I thought I'd share:

http://www.volvospeed.com/Reviews/aquamist.htm

http://www.performanceinnovations.nl/products/aquamist-faq-a.html

http://www.activeautowerke.com/Water-Alcohol_Injection/cust_testimonial.asp

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/coollinks3/index/street/smdex/syclone/syclone3.html

Mike
 
Mike,
Thanks for the links. Did you go with that Miata system or the Aquamist 1s, or are they one in the same?
Here is another claim I got from a site. He said passing the water through a tube and did'nt say if the tube was part of his plumbing or not. Anyway, this was why I wondered about the size and multiple nozzles. From this it appears the more water the cooler she gets.
Bill

Lets see how good water is as a coolant, by passing air at 248F through a tube at a rate of 5kg per minute. At the center of that tube, we sprayed 50gms per minute of water at 77F. and found the final air temperature was 203F. a large reduction. For l00g of water per minute, the final air temperature was 158F, a reduction of 43% in temperature, while 200g reduced air temperature to 77F an 80% reduction. In other words, a flow of 200g of water per minute injected into the air stream, totally absorbed all of the heat in the air. Obviously modified engines will benefit most due to their higher pre-combustion pressures and temperatures (usually caused by higher compression ratios)
 
Bill,

The Miata system is the Aquamist 1s. The company "aquamist" of the United Kingdom, is the only company I know of that makes these systems. There are just multiple distributors of the same stuff. It's quite possible you can find the 1s cheaper than the $495 I paid from the Miata vendor. I just know that vendor and have ordered thousands of go fast stuff from them before with good results and support. It's always nice to order stuff from a company that has actually installed it and used it on their own vehicles. :D In fact they've got a race car running in the open track challenge this week and my understanding is that it has an aquamist system on it.

Mike
 
'YES, CRUISERDAN _can_ quote Toyota part #'s off the top of his head!! If I had that kinda mind I'd be President-
'twere not for whiskey, us Irish'd rule the world!
 
OK, with all the knowledge I now have about radiators what would be the best solutions for a stock 96 engine? I have problems with the engine running a bit too hot while climbing mtn. passes in the summer. Stock radiator has been flushed and is clean. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. ???
 

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