Radiator Problem?

[LandyAndy]

Popped the hood to do an oil change and was greeted with a pink surprise...

I’m a YouTube mechanic at best. What do y’all think? Leaking radiator or maybe just the cap? It’s a 2011 LX with 122k.

 

[KLF]

I think you need to clean your engine bay. Then install a new radiator.

 

[Sandroad]

And another one blows it top..........

2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

Edited by Moderator to change date range in title Curious who else has had a failure of their radiator on their 200 of the 08-10 model years by a crack on the top next to the molded in platform. I got lucky and found mine before it was catastrophic. I notified @TexAZ because I know his truck...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[RET2]

Looks like a Pepto Bismal convention

 

[tincan45]

122K....you drove 2K too far! Welcome to the club...yours was a little more dramatic than most.

Should prob change the water pump while you are at it.

 

[bloc]

Someone should condense the pertinent info in that thread down and any new users in the 200-section should get notified to read it. Basically every 200 in the US market is going to have this issue.

 

[LandyAndy]

Someone should condense the pertinent info in that thread down and any new users in the 200-section should get notified to read it. Basically every 200 in the US market is going to have this issue.

Couldn't agreee more. That thread is too long and old at the beginning to be much help without a lot of time combing through it...it just so happens I have a lot of spare time at the moment (see: quarantine )and after reading through an uncomfortably long amount of it I propose the following synoposis:

-if you have a '08 thru at least '13 LC or LX your radiator is a ticking time bomb.
-Look for a raised part# stamp to the left of the radiator cap. A crack is seemingly inevitable to start at the bottom of that stamp.
-Radiator failure seems to happen more commonly after 8 or so years or 100k-130k mileage.
-Some have tried repairing or reinforcing the trouble area with varying degrees of success. I wasn't interested in this since mine already failed.
-If you're going to replace the radiator you may as well do the water pump, thermostat and heater T's while you're at it.
-no one has posted a video yet of the procedures but it seems the best method is the leave the radiator mount in place when replacing. I will attempt to take pics when I do mine this coming weekend (no promises ).

OEM parts list for an '11 LX (should be similiar for everyone):
-16400-50384 Radiator (upgraded with a new stamp-hopefully more robust than the original design. This part number has been updated several times through the years. Be sure to get the most recent model thats ends in -4)
-16571-38080 Upper radiator hose
-16572-38130 Lower radiator hose
-87209-60C01 Heater hose T with hoses
-87209-60C12 Other heater hose T with hoses
-Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (full coolant flush calls for 16.7L, get 5 gallons)

Not sure about the water pump or thermostat-my rig had this done not long before the radiator failed.

Hope this helps!

-Andy

 

[bloc]

Couldn't agreee more. That thread is too long and old at the beginning to be much help without a lot of time combing through it...it just so happens I have a lot of spare time at the moment (see: quarantine )and after reading through an uncomfortably long amount of it I propose the following synoposis:

-if you have a '08 thru at least '13 LC or LX your radiator is a ticking time bomb.
-Look for a raised part# stamp to the left of the radiator cap. A crack is seemingly inevitable to start at the bottom of that stamp.
-Radiator failure seems to happen more commonly after 8 or so years or 100k-130k mileage.
-Some have tried repairing or reinforcing the trouble area with varying degrees of success. I wasn't interested in this since mine already failed.
-If you're going to replace the radiator you may as well do the water pump, thermostat and heater T's while you're at it.
-no one has posted a video yet of the procedures but it seems the best method is the leave the radiator mount in place when replacing. I will attempt to take pics when I do mine this coming weekend (no promises ).

OEM parts list for an '11 LX (should be similiar for everyone):
-16400-50384 Radiator (upgraded with a new stamp-hopefully more robust than the original design. This part number has been updated several times through the years. Be sure to get the most recent model thats ends in -4)
-16571-38080 Upper radiator hose
-16572-38130 Lower radiator hose
-87209-60C01 Heater hose T with hoses
-87209-60C12 Other heater hose T with hoses
-Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (full coolant flush calls for 16.7L, get 5 gallons)

Not sure about the water pump or thermostat-my rig had this done not long before the radiator failed.

Hope this helps!

-Andy

Thanks for putting this together! However I disagree on a couple points.

Most people inspecting their Ts find them in perfect factory condition. I see no reason to include them in the list of stuff to be replaced. Completely agree on water pump/thermostat though.

I don't think leaving the radiator mounts in place is worth while. I pulled my whole radiator including brackets and had zero issues with this method. All bolts are easily accessible, the toughest part is backing up the large washers on the lower mounts, and a 12mm open end wrench worked great for this, with it being a little tight on the battery side. By changing the brackets too the whole unit is factory new, factory torque for the important strap bolts on top and bottom, etc.

I'm currently on a roadtrip, but if someone gets a condensed thread together I'd be happy to take some pics of my method when I get home and contribute. Pictures of cracks forming, new vs old tank design, etc would be great in that thread.

Beyond that.. people with 15s are getting cracks too. I'd bet anyone with the original sharp-edged design is at risk. The new design didn't come out until some time in 2019 IIRC.

 

[Banshee365]

It's a girl!!!

LOL

 

[The Crowbar]

Does anyone make an OEM drop in that's all aluminum?

 

[bloc]

Does anyone make an OEM drop in that's all aluminum?

OEM = toyota. Toyota doesn’t make all aluminum radiators for good reasons.
So no.

 

[Rigger]

Someone should condense the pertinent info in that thread down and any new users in the 200-section should get notified to read it. Basically every 200 in the US market is going to have this issue.

So someone should edit the thread, shorten it for easier reading, and then notify new folks that own a 200 of this issue? What is this? The tech section? Or a nursery school? I nominate you for this set of tasks, sir.

That thread has good info in it. Many people gave their opinions and experiences. So you have to do a bit of reading to get it. Is that really too big of a job?

 

[Rigger]

Couldn't agreee more. That thread is too long and old at the beginning to be much help without a lot of time combing through it...it just so happens I have a lot of spare time at the moment (see: quarantine )and after reading through an uncomfortably long amount of it I propose the following synoposis:

-if you have a '08 thru at least '13 LC or LX your radiator is a ticking time bomb.
-Look for a raised part# stamp to the left of the radiator cap. A crack is seemingly inevitable to start at the bottom of that stamp.
-Radiator failure seems to happen more commonly after 8 or so years or 100k-130k mileage.
-Some have tried repairing or reinforcing the trouble area with varying degrees of success. I wasn't interested in this since mine already failed.
-If you're going to replace the radiator you may as well do the water pump, thermostat and heater T's while you're at it.
-no one has posted a video yet of the procedures but it seems the best method is the leave the radiator mount in place when replacing. I will attempt to take pics when I do mine this coming weekend (no promises ).

OEM parts list for an '11 LX (should be similiar for everyone):
-16400-50384 Radiator (upgraded with a new stamp-hopefully more robust than the original design. This part number has been updated several times through the years. Be sure to get the most recent model thats ends in -4)
-16571-38080 Upper radiator hose
-16572-38130 Lower radiator hose
-87209-60C01 Heater hose T with hoses
-87209-60C12 Other heater hose T with hoses
-Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (full coolant flush calls for 16.7L, get 5 gallons)

Not sure about the water pump or thermostat-my rig had this done not long before the radiator failed.

Hope this helps!

-Andy

That is very helpful. Thanks. Now we have another radiator thread!

 

[afgman786]

@Rigger fair point on no need to baby people. Couldn't a line be added to the FAQ thread and link threads to that like other info on repairs is?

 

[bloc]

So someone should edit the thread, shorten it for easier reading, and then notify new folks that own a 200 of this issue? What is this? The tech section? Or a nursery school? I nominate you for this set of tasks, sir.

That thread has good info in it. Many people gave their opinions and experiences. So you have to do a bit of reading to get it. Is that really too big of a job?

Apparently it is too big of a job for new people.

They see a 50+ page thread that still has an incorrect title (08-10 only leading 11+ to think it doesn’t apply to them) and doesn’t start out with the info they need so they won’t slog through it to get the good stuff. If it were shorter and more visible many people shopping for 200s would notice the crack right there on the lot and use it to negotiate. But that isn’t happening, clearly.

 

[Rigger]

@Rigger fair point on no need to baby people. Couldn't a line be added to the FAQ thread and link threads to that like other info on repairs is?

Common Failures and Repairs - FAQ

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator is the first item.

 

[afgman786]

Common Failures and Repairs - FAQ

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator is the first item.

I was looking thru this sticky thread and didn't see it. Guess that thread might need to make it to a sticky as well then.

FAQ - 200-series FAQ for Modifications, Repairs and Build Threads. Great place for new users to start

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the 200/LX570 series tech section continues to be a work in progress. The goal is to have links in the below to other threads and tech articles. By having these linked, instead of pasting the text, the threads will remain live. The live threads can...

forum.ih8mud.com

edit: I am a firm believer in using the search function instead of people just posting same thread over and over again, but doesn't seem to happen.. or use SQOD

 

[Rigger]

Apparently it is too big of a job for new people.

They see a 50+ page thread that still has an incorrect title (08-10 only leading 11+ to think it doesn’t apply to them) and doesn’t start out with the info they need so they won’t slog through it to get the good stuff. If it were shorter and more visible many people shopping for 200s would notice the crack right there on the lot and use it to negotiate. But that isn’t happening, clearly.

Hmmmm. It’d be good to revise the title of that thread.

 

[bloc]

Hmmmm. It’d be good to revise the title of that thread.

I’ll try to work on something much more concise if you are gonna make it a sticky. I agree completely on searching, but this doesn’t seem to be happening and I’m pretty sure the length and progression of that thread is a big part of why, when everything people need to know could be put into a single post at the top.

 

[The Crowbar]

OEM = toyota. Toyota doesn’t make all aluminum radiators for good reasons.
So no.

What's the good reason for not having an all aluminum radiator?