radiator failure??? (1 Viewer)

[dustbowl]

Doesn't look like its got a trans cooler built in, it doesn't have tabs for the fan shroud to rest on. And you really can't tell if its a "drop in" fit. I wouldn't risk it. Stick with Toyota OEM or for a little less $$ a Denso replacement designed to "drop in" and cool to the engineering specifications established by Toyota.

how much trouble would it be to omit the transmission line in the bottom of the radiator? is this line for cooling or warm up?

 

[abuck99]

I havent seen anyone do it but You could bypass into the line running to the external cooler. Yeah I think the internal cooler aids trans warm up. I wouldnt avert the factory set up but It probably wouldnt be an issue if you did.

 

[dustbowl]

Thanks. i ordered the aluminum radiator from Taiwan just to see if it will work. in the description it says it is a direct replacement for the 99 through 2002 cruiser. we shall see

 

[phippsj]

Mine completely let go at 240k. Had the brown top. Was 200 miles from home....not a cheap dealer trip. Do the Denso for $200 in your driveway.

Ok, you guys have scared the crap outta me. My ‘05 at 230k miles is getting a new OEM radiator and hoses as preventative maintenance before I head out to HIH next week.

I had a dead battery and a/c die the last two years driving out there. The radiator and hoses won’t be the problem this year!

 

[Spike555]

Ok, you guys have scared the crap outta me. My ‘05 at 230k miles is getting a new OEM radiator and hoses as preventative maintenance before I head out to HIH next week.

I had a dead battery and a/c die the last two years driving out there. The radiator and hoses won’t be the problem this year!

That's not preventative maintence, that is premature repair.
Preventative maintence is fluid and filter changes and the like.
Premature repair is replacing parts before they are worn out or broken.
You have no idea how long a part will actually last. You can speculate all you want, but you have no actual clue.
I am all for carrying spares, but not for replacing things before they fail.

 

[Spike555]

ALL of the engines I have replaced in 100 series were 100% due to radiator failure... PERIOD once the coolant is gone it never reads HOT because there is no coolant around the sending unit... so you have little if any warning before it looses power and dies on the side of the road... I have purchased $200 radiators and $99 radiators and sometimes they were EXACTLY the same... I'd order 4 row and receive 2 row... I have 50k miles on a 2 row now... I OFTEN leave it running all day on 100 degree days because my dog is in the truck... it never goes past 1/2 on the temp gauge.... I pull an enclosed trailer 75mph for 2hrs and it never even gets warm... this is a VERY small V8 and the 2 row must be adequate for the job... In race cars (depending on track) we wanted as little drag as possible with as much heat exchange... the 3rd and 4th row added a ton of drag and if the first row was efficient then the rows after were getting heated air so anything after was not doing alot.... and the 4row is HEAVY which might be one reason they fail... I would almost suggest going with the $99 china 2 row radiator... I know it goes against everything most believe... but I do have a stack of failed 4rows in my shop... JMHO

That's why you pay attention to the temp gauge, if it drops all of a sudden you know you have sudden coolant loss, so you pop it into neutral and shut the engine off and coast to the shoulder. Check the coolant level and go from there.
It's the people who don't pay attention that blow up engines.

 

[dustbowl]

That's why you pay attention to the temp gauge, if it drops all of a sudden you know you have sudden coolant loss, so you pop it into neutral and shut the engine off and coast to the shoulder. Check the coolant level and go from there.
It's the people who don't pay attention that blow up engines.

I hope that theory works out for you.

 

[abuck99]

That's not preventative maintence, that is premature repair.
Preventative maintence is fluid and filter changes and the like.
Premature repair is replacing parts before they are worn out or broken.
You have no idea how long a part will actually last. You can speculate all you want, but you have no actual clue.
I am all for carrying spares, but not for replacing things before they fail.

You are welcome to my prematurely replaced radiator, its sitting in a box.

 

[phippsj]

That's not preventative maintence, that is premature repair.
Preventative maintence is fluid and filter changes and the like.
Premature repair is replacing parts before they are worn out or broken.
You have no idea how long a part will actually last. You can speculate all you want, but you have no actual clue.
I am all for carrying spares, but not for replacing things before they fail.

When you’re hundreds of miles from home, in the middle of nowhere west Texas, with your loved ones with you, it’s preventative maintenance. You are welcome to your opinion.

 

[planomateo]

By definition, it's preventative maintenance.

 

[Spike555]

The last time I broke down in a personal vehicle was over 10yrs ago. And that was because I ignored the warning signs.

Replacing parts are repairs.
Maintence and repairs are not the same thing.

 

[Spike555]

I hope that theory works out for you.

Works perfect each and every time. Put the damn phone down and pay attention to the road and gauges. Scan your gauges once every 3-5 seconds, same with mirrors. Know your surroundings and whats going on. It will save you money and possibly your life

Check your under hood fluids once a week, just a quick visual inspection once a week and you'll know if anything is off, then you take care of it right away and don't have break downs.

 

[Xetabur]

This is what radiator failure looks like in an 80 Series. Skip to 7:52.

 

[dustbowl]

Works perfect each and every time. Put the damn phone down and pay attention to the road and gauges. Scan your gauges once every 3-5 seconds, same with mirrors. Know your surroundings and whats going on. It will save you money and possibly your life

Check your under hood fluids once a week, just a quick visual inspection once a week and you'll know if anything is off, then you take care of it right away and don't have break downs.

you are taking a lot of liberties with that statement. lets get this thread back on it's original direction. if somebody wants to change out a perfectly good part that is their business not mine. but i do appreciate good information including yours.

 

[ponytl]

That's why you pay attention to the temp gauge, if it drops all of a sudden you know you have sudden coolant loss, so you pop it into neutral and shut the engine off and coast to the shoulder. Check the coolant level and go from there.
It's the people who don't pay attention that blow up engines.

That sounds good.. but in a sudden catastrophic radiator failure You have all but no warning... it takes coolant in contact with the sending unit that is HOT to give you a warning... with a split radiator the coolant never gets too hot... it's circulating OUT of the system not through it... your only option would be a coolant pressure gauge with a low pressure warning light or buzzer... loss of pressure and you get a warning... I built and sold 1000's for the HVAC industry that tied into the alarm systems to prevent AC unit theft ...

 

[dustbowl]

56MM ALUMINUM RADIATOR Toyota Land Cruiser; Lexus LX470 UZJ100 V8 AUTO 1998-2007 | eBay

correction this is the one for an automatic transmission. it has the cooler ports

 

[Spike555]

That sounds good.. but in a sudden catastrophic radiator failure You have all but no warning... it takes coolant in contact with the sending unit that is HOT to give you a warning... with a split radiator the coolant never gets too hot... it's circulating OUT of the system not through it... your only option would be a coolant pressure gauge with a low pressure warning light or buzzer... loss of pressure and you get a warning... I built and sold 1000's for the HVAC industry that tied into the alarm systems to prevent AC unit theft ...

Sudden coolant loss not only creates a huge cloud of steam behind you (which you would see because you're checking your mirrors every 3-5 sec) and you notice your temp gauge drop to cold, which also means no coolant, and again you notice this sudden drop in the temp gauge because you are checking your gauges every 3-5 sec.
All you need is a quick glance, your eyes will be trained to know where the gauges are supposed to be. Anything out of the norm will be noticed straight away, IF you're paying attention.

So yes, sudden coolant loss causes the temp gauge to drop because there is no coolant touching the temp sensor, so as the sensor cools it lowers the needle on the gauge.

So to anyone out there, if you do not want to blow up your engine or get in a accident put your damn phone down and pay attention to your surroundings while driving.

 

[ponytl]

Sudden coolant loss not only creates a huge cloud of steam behind you (which you would see because you're checking your mirrors every 3-5 sec) and you notice your temp gauge drop to cold, which also means no coolant, and again you notice this sudden drop in the temp gauge because you are checking your gauges every 3-5 sec.
All you need is a quick glance, your eyes will be trained to know where the gauges are supposed to be. Anything out of the norm will be noticed straight away, IF you're paying attention.

So yes, sudden coolant loss causes the temp gauge to drop because there is no coolant touching the temp sensor, so as the sensor cools it lowers the needle on the gauge.

So to anyone out there, if you do not want to blow up your engine or get in a accident put your damn phone down and pay attention to your surroundings while driving.

I guess I'll reply just so others don't think you are informed or in the slightest way correct... otherwise I'd just let you believe as you wish... the water exiting the radiator is maybe 230 degrees no steam to notice in your rear view... chances are the sensor is going to continue to pick up the heat from the engine it's not going to rapidly cool... the factory gauge is not all that accurate anyway... I doubt that if you did nothing but stare at your temp gauge and never look at the road you would not see anything that would allow you to react in time to prevent damage.. these aluminum heads on iron blocks warp very quick... your first clue will be a loss of power which you will think is throttle related, your temp gauge will tell you nothing.. and you will coast to a dead powerless stop... all the while scanning your mirrors, gauges, and the road ahead every 3-5 seconds... i hope you have your phone to call for help... then... while waiting fo help you can visit this forum and you can read my previous post on engine replacement

 

[abuck99]

@ponytl

Good points on coolant flow , which evolves the thread a little but I think its relevant to the thread title.... so I’ll bring up the idea of adding coolant pressure switch.

One could add a pressure sensor to a brass heater T, and run a warning light inside to the dash. Ive seen some kits for $25 -75. But one could be fabbed easy enough. Downside is risk for leak if not engineered well.

What makes more sense to me (theoretically) would be a overflow/reservoir tank low level sensor if it can throw a warning light ahead of rapid coolant loss.

In a catastrophic or rapid coolant loss- would the overflow bottle be sucked dry quickly- fast enough to to trip a low level warning light to avert damage?

Im confident that an in-line pressure sensor at the heater T would prob work more effectively but curious about the effectivness of a level sensor.

 

[atnolan94]

This is what radiator failure looks like in an 80 Series. Skip to 7:52.

Can confirm it looked EXACTLY like this on my 100....at highway speed. It splashed all over my windshield and the cars behind me. Very obvious.