Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build

[Rednexus]

They'll do very well with the TX/Grand Highlander. It should fit the sizeable market of people who want a giant vehicle but don't want to drive a traditional body-on-frame SUV or minivan.

I will say, our normal-sized Highlander is plenty big for our family of 4. It's roomer inside and externally longer/wider than my GX. We personally have zero desire for a larger crossover.

 

[cgs2k2]

i like that big highlander. would probably be easier to drive around town for my wife than our yukon xl, but looks like the people hauling capacity is about the same

 

[r2m]

It's been a few weeks now without the resonator in all kinds of traffic. Not off roading yet.
Generally and in most road conditions I don't hear any added volume, drone, or anything else annoying.
Going up the hill to my office in the morning after I turn right from a dead stop, as I'm increasing speed with the engine under load, I hear a very little rumble. Not quite the sweet sound of a soft throaty V8, but I do hear it. Albeit, that's with no radio on and everything else around me is very quiet.
Any other type of driving, I never notice it.

So far, I'm pleased with removing it.
We'll see more when I take it off roading with the windows down and crawling how it sounds.
I'll report back.

 

[r2m]

It's amazing what the hold! All the little crap that use to end up on the floor.

Picking up the whole rear shelf topic again, I have an idea and see if I can make it happen.
Thinking about a drop-down shelf on the bottom of the Victroy 4x4 MOLLE shelf that I already have installed, that'll have all my tools, e.g. mechanic tools, wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, maybe some air tools, etc. But not recovery gear. I'm thinking a long gun (rifle) case about 50" x 15" x 4" rectangle. take out the bottom egg crate foam and replace with the two piece foam used to outline and fit tools for drawers. Then bolt the case to the bottom of the shelf, but with an easy release to be able to remove the entire case. I'd also have a thin short cable to limit the opening so if I just need to drop-open the bottom of the case while it's still hanging under the shelf, it'll open about 45° to 60° down without spilling all the tools out and I can just pick out the tool I need.
The benefits:

1. Get rid of my current tool bag which is taking up space on the shelf.
2. Every tool will have its place.
3. Since very tool will have its place it'll be easy to see if anything is ever missing/left on the trail.
4. Can drop (hinge) down the bottom of the case and pull out a tool without having to get out a tool bag. They'll all be organized with easy access.
5. Like a tool box, I have the option to remove the entire gun case and take it to where I'd need it, maybe another rig on the trail or?? and have everything accessible.
6. Don't have to rummage through the tool bag looking for that 13 mm box end wrench, or whatever.

My concerns are if the cheap gun case will be strong enough to hold the tools, and on that note, will the latches be strong enough to keep it shut with out breaking or coming unlatched? I have no worries about the Victory shelf, that's pretty bullet proof. They show one of their employees hanging from it.

I'm pricing things out now and looking for other options for a case/shelf drop down.

 

[Washingtontaco]

Picking up the whole rear shelf topic again, I have an idea and see if I can make it happen.
Thinking about a drop-down shelf on the bottom of the Victroy 4x4 MOLLE shelf that I already have installed, that'll have all my tools, e.g. mechanic tools, wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, maybe some air tools, etc. But not recovery gear. I'm thinking a long gun (rifle) case about 50" x 15" x 4" rectangle. take out the bottom egg crate foam and replace with the two piece foam used to outline and fit tools for drawers. Then bolt the case to the bottom of the shelf, but with an easy release to be able to remove the entire case. I'd also have a thin short cable to limit the opening so if I just need to drop-open the bottom of the case while it's still hanging under the shelf, it'll open about 45° to 60° down without spilling all the tools out and I can just pick out the tool I need.
The benefits:

1. Get rid of my current tool bag which is taking up space on the shelf.
2. Every tool will have its place.
3. Since very tool will have its place it'll be easy to see if anything is ever missing/left on the trail.
4. Can drop (hinge) down the bottom of the case and pull out a tool without having to get out a tool bag. They'll all be organized with easy access.
5. Like a tool box, I have the option to remove the entire gun case and take it to where I'd need it, maybe another rig on the trail or?? and have everything accessible.
6. Don't have to rummage through the tool bag looking for that 13 mm box end wrench, or whatever.

My concerns are if the cheap gun case will be strong enough to hold the tools, and on that note, will the latches be strong enough to keep it shut with out breaking or coming unlatched? I have no worries about the Victory shelf, that's pretty bullet proof. They show one of their employees hanging from it.

I'm pricing things out now and looking for other options for a case/shelf drop down.

Look at Zarge cases. We ship aircraft parts in them.

 

[orangerock]

Picking up the whole rear shelf topic again, I have an idea and see if I can make it happen.
Thinking about a drop-down shelf on the bottom of the Victroy 4x4 MOLLE shelf that I already have installed, that'll have all my tools, e.g. mechanic tools, wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, maybe some air tools, etc. But not recovery gear. I'm thinking a long gun (rifle) case about 50" x 15" x 4" rectangle. take out the bottom egg crate foam and replace with the two piece foam used to outline and fit tools for drawers. Then bolt the case to the bottom of the shelf, but with an easy release to be able to remove the entire case. I'd also have a thin short cable to limit the opening so if I just need to drop-open the bottom of the case while it's still hanging under the shelf, it'll open about 45° to 60° down without spilling all the tools out and I can just pick out the tool I need.
The benefits:

1. Get rid of my current tool bag which is taking up space on the shelf.
2. Every tool will have its place.
3. Since very tool will have its place it'll be easy to see if anything is ever missing/left on the trail.
4. Can drop (hinge) down the bottom of the case and pull out a tool without having to get out a tool bag. They'll all be organized with easy access.
5. Like a tool box, I have the option to remove the entire gun case and take it to where I'd need it, maybe another rig on the trail or?? and have everything accessible.
6. Don't have to rummage through the tool bag looking for that 13 mm box end wrench, or whatever.

My concerns are if the cheap gun case will be strong enough to hold the tools, and on that note, will the latches be strong enough to keep it shut with out breaking or coming unlatched? I have no worries about the Victory shelf, that's pretty bullet proof. They show one of their employees hanging from it.

I'm pricing things out now and looking for other options for a case/shelf drop down.

A while ago Victory had an Instagram post with a 3d rendering exactly this for their shelf. No clue if they are ever going to produce it tho.

 

[r2m]

A while ago Victory had an Instagram post with a 3d rendering exactly this for their shelf. No clue if they are ever going to produce it tho.

I called Victory 4x4 about the idea to see if they had something like you described and (at least the guy I spoke with) didn't know of anything in the pipeline about that.
I actually suggested it to them, but in the end it was kind of a, "Thanks, don't call us, we'll call you."

 

[offroad47]

I think a fold down tool box shelf is a very amazing & useful idea. I’m wondering what the weight is of those core tools? One school of thought would be to have them very accessible and another might be to keep that weight closer to the center of gravity of the vehicle. For those of us that don’t do very dramatic off-roading it would not make a lot of difference. There are a lot of manufacturers out there who are just like a lot of churches in the world . They are all about the people till they get addicted to the income and then it’s all business. Finding that balance is hard.
If I was the owner of any company expecting an economic victory in this very small eco system of GXORville I would tell everyone who answered my phones if R2M calls or sends an email to send his call or email directly to me.

 

[r2m]

Since I own my own license of SolidWorks and am an engineer, I told him I could design the entire product, including all the "flat" panels with proper bend radius for the box and pan work, etc., even the Victory "V" wing logo! But they said they don't use contractors.
Heck, I'd do it for free if they'd give me the first prototype!
But being in the R&D side of products, one has to always choose carefully what "basket" they want to put their eggs in when developing a new product to maximize sales. This is especially true with small companies/small budgets that have to carefully pick and choose what new products they come out with that they think will be a homerun.

 

[offroad47]

I think an injection molded foam lined box that would fit under the shelf that would slide out and them flop down would be good for tools, cameras, and other things we use a lot in Texas. If you draw something up I know a guy who has a injection mound source in China. I think a container of the properly designed boxes would sell in 90 days or less.
The proto types could be 3D printed in your area I’m sure.
My lovely wife and I are in Tehachapi CA this evening. Heading back to Dallas from Nor Cal. I have never seen California so wet. Between 1999 & 2007 my son was Riding on a factory BMX team so we were in Cali up to 10 weekends a year. I just can’t believe how green it is.

 

[r2m]

I think an injection molded foam lined box that would fit under the shelf that would slide out and them flop down would be good for tools, cameras, and other things we use a lot in Texas. If you draw something up I know a guy who has a injection mound source in China. I think a container of the properly designed boxes would sell in 90 days or less.
The proto types could be 3D printed in your area I’m sure.
My lovely wife and I are in Tehachapi CA this evening. Heading back to Dallas from Nor Cal. I have never seen California so wet. Between 1999 & 2007 my son was Riding on a factory BMX team so we were in Cali up to 10 weekends a year. I just can’t believe how green it is.

Too bad we're up in Tahoe right now. Wife and I would like to have hooked up with you guys. Girls talk about... well... whatever, while we dig into GX stuff!!!
Regarding your idea about a molded case and some of your points (note: I'm not trying to be a Debbie downer), this is observations from my carrier in R&D.

1. Yes I can design one. Albeit, it'll be the largest molded object I've designed.
2. A 3D printed prototype would be very expensive considering the size. Without going into special commercial size FDM printers, the largest generally is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm (approx: 15.75" cubed) And the design I'm thinking about, the build plate would have to closer to 40", or a little over a meter.
3. I know for small single cavity molds (think small medical devices like luers) can run about $5k - $15k, and I am talking about Chinese machining and manufacturing. For something as large as were talking, that may not work for injection molding, but may be better for rotomolding (rotational molding). That provides a thick and durable shell. Think kayaks, Pelican cases, plastic 50 gal drums, etc.
4. I've never designed for rotomolding so I'd have to familiarize myself with processing restrictions like wall thickness, drafts, etc.
5. Also since I've never designed for rotomolding, have no idea of costs involved.

But I may have an alternative. Stay posted,

 

[LWC]

Too bad we're up in Tahoe right now. Wife and I would like to have hooked up with you guys. Girls talk about... well... whatever, while we dig into GX stuff!!!
Regarding your idea about a molded case and some of your points (note: I'm not trying to be a Debbie downer), this is observations from my carrier in R&D.

1. Yes I can design one. Albeit, it'll be the largest molded object I've designed.
2. A 3D printed prototype would be very expensive considering the size. Without going into special commercial size FDM printers, the largest generally is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm (approx: 15.75" cubed) And the design I'm thinking about, the build plate would have to closer to 40", or a little over a meter.
3. I know for small single cavity molds (think small medical devices like luers) can run about $5k - $15k, and I am talking about Chinese machining and manufacturing. For something as large as were talking, that may not work for injection molding, but may be better for rotomolding (rotational molding). That provides a thick and durable shell. Think kayaks, Pelican cases, plastic 50 gal drums, etc.
4. I've never designed for rotomolding so I'd have to familiarize myself with processing restrictions like wall thickness, drafts, etc.
5. Also since I've never designed for rotomolding, have no idea of costs involved.

But I may have an alternative. Stay posted,

We've had great success using vacuum thermoforming (same way they make a lot of the plastic cases) for prototype parts, but most of our parts are small and relatively imprecise, so the positives can be printed on an SLS machine or machined with sloppy tolerances.

I personally don't have much experience with rotomolding, but I recall one of the senior design project teams tried to use it at my college and had no end to their troubles in trying to actually get the material to flow around the mold.

I think your plan of repurposing a pelican case or something similar is smart. I personally hate pick and pluck foam for anything other than basically single use since it falls apart so easily. There are also a ton of companies that will do laser cut custom foam if you send them a .DWG file. With that said, taking your time and using a hot wire will be sbout $500 cheaper .

 

[TheNomad]

Looking through rack designs, have you found much true utility with Gamiviti's downward basket? I can see they call it a handle but is it really that essential? Do you use the gussets as tie downs or does it give a much better awning attachment or other utility?
Other than aesthetics, I can see it strengthening the front section of the rack that has no feet under it, and I can see it protecting the light bar but the fairing seems to do that too.
I'm a fan of "as low profile as possible" and I see that many people seem to mount it at max height. Is your mounted as low as possible?

Just considering designs and admittedly lie the looks of a platform rack. I like flat, low profile, it could see lighter weight use, not heavy loads, other than hauling home lumber. Not a fan of baskets
thanks!

 

[r2m]

While I do really like the general style of the downward rail, probably the main reason I like it is because it hearkens back to the Camel Trophy truck racks.
And yes I do use it to attach the awning and protect the proximity lights (left and right), which right now are on the drivers side are covered by the awning and only one light on the right works. Gotta fix that...
But other than the reasons mentioned above for having it, by far the most important reason was the flat, low profile and a full opening for the sunroof if I don't have anything over it.

 

[TheNomad]

Thanks. It looks best when its mounted low, for sure.
I'm embarking on welding up a flat rack and I'll start it simple and work on adding anything I find a need for over time.

 

[r2m]

Forgot to mention that another reason for the low flat deck was to keep the overall height of the rig as low as possible for parking garages, overhangs, etc.
Although adding the RTT kind of killed that.

 

[r2m]

General question about AT temps since I'm looking at them all the time now with the OBDII app.

• What would be considered the average temperature range:
• What would be considered high range, under load (hot weather, up a grade or pulling something):
• What's the danger zone In other words, "pull over and shut down NOW!":

Mine has been running high 190's F to very low 200's F which I believe to be well within average.
Any thoughts?

 

[JDUB fab]

General question about AT temps since I'm looking at them all the time now with the OBDII app.

• What would be considered the average temperature range:
• What would be considered high range, under load (hot weather, up a grade or pulling something):
• What's the danger zone In other words, "pull over and shut down NOW!":

Mine has been running high 190's F to very low 200's F which I believe to be well within average.
Any thoughts?

I get high 190s and low 200s as well under normal conditions. I think the thermostatic valve opens at 200?
Up big grades I’ve seen it creep to 220-230. I have the Hayden cooler in hand and ready to install when I get the time.
Also on 35s like you.

 

[Rednexus]

220-230F is really too hot for anything but a short duration - see below. 190-200F is also kind of high and will probably reduce your transmission fluid lifespan.

TCI Auto Transmission Life Expectancy - TCI® Auto

There's More To Coolers Than You Think. It's no secret that heat kills automatic transmissions. And in high-performance street-strip applications, the problem is especially acute. Small diameter torque converters coupled with stop-and-go traffic greatly increase the heat level in an automatic...

www.tciauto.com

After installing a Hayden 678 I've only got up to 200F a couple of times when towing our camper up very steep grades. During the summer I usually run around 175F, which theoretically provides 100K plus of fluid life.

IMO - if you are always in that 190-205 range, I'd install the bigger cooler AND change your fluid. Both of those are very cheap relative to a $5K plus transmission replacement.

 

[Acrad]

I would never let mine get to these limits but this is how the AT in 460 handles excessive AT heat

IMO: Unless one decides to take coolant loop of AT lines out of the picture one is always going to get around that 190-205 range while on extended drives. You have coolant loop at the thermostatic switch off AT as well as the cooler built into radiator.

I am just trying to improve the reliability odds with drain and fills at 30k mile intervals. It’s a well debated topic with lots of opinions.