R-N-D Clunk w/video (1 Viewer)

[shadynwa]

Front differential looks to have excessive slack correct? This is going from R to N to D a few times, with the most notable clunk going from N to D. I can place my hand on bottom of diff and feel it catch with the clunk sound. Most all threads I read comment on cv and bushing wear, but not as much mentioned on Dr his much diff play.

I took videos of both cv axle and two differential bushings. I can share if needed. When looking at them first, you might think noise is coming from them as well. But visually, the differential input seemed to be main concern.

What next? Thanks

First post-Not sure if video posts or sig line shows- 2002 LC stock 175k

 

[2001LC]

If hub flange (HF) to FDS (AKA: CV) axle splines have play, it will clunk. You'll chase clunk endlessly, until it corrected. What point did you look at/video, this one:

 

[2001LC]

If no play at HF to FDS. Then yes, looks like excessive play in front diff. I'd expect to see, excessive metal on diff drain plug magnet.

 

[Patassa]

Front differential looks to have excessive slack correct? This is going from R to N to D a few times, with the most notable clunk going from N to D. I can place my hand on bottom of diff and feel it catch with the clunk sound. Most all threads I read comment on cv and bushing wear, but not as much mentioned on Dr his much diff play.

I took videos of both cv axle and two differential bushings. I can share if needed. When looking at them first, you might think noise is coming from them as well. But visually, the differential input seemed to be main concern.

What next? Thanks

First post-Not sure if video posts or sig line shows- 2002 LC stock 175k

I chased this for a while too, once you're taken care of new CVs, new drive flanges, maybe new drive shafts, new bushings everywhere in the drive line and suspension there will still be some play in the diff. I shipped my diff off to install front locker, new bearings were installed, locker was installed, lash was set, everything was within tolerance, there is still some "slop" when shifting. But even brand new trucks have this after driving a few of my buddies pick ups.

 

[Land Shark]

Not saying this is the issue but this diff mount was from my truck with +/- 180k

 

[shadynwa]

My fear is the issue is going to be a combination of several wear items. I will post videos of these areas in coming days to get opinions before making a plan for repairs. Thanks for thoughts so far.

 

[shadynwa]

Just wanted to follow up, because I hate when we can’t determine in the thread if problems were or were not resolved.

Replaced diff bushings, front drive shafts, outer drive flanges, upper/lower ball joints, and repacked all wheel bearings. Clunk or slop in front end is all but gone. Unfortunately, I cannot say if one item had a larger effect than others due to wanting to replace most items from front differential on out. Have not put many miles on repair, so slight play may reappear, and could be considered normal.

All repairs done with the help of MUD resources. What a valuable community to refer to for all things LC. Thank you.

 

[excessive]

I bet that thing feels like new now. I am dreading doing the front diff bushings, but i know that's next on my list

 

[shadynwa]

The bushings were installed a few months ago and had a very minimal effect. Was probably a small piece of the solution. If trying to solve with least amount of parts, I would start at drive flanges, then drive shafts, then bushings. As many others have experienced, the problem seems to be a combination of these parts wearing due to age or infrequent service.

 

[baltistyle]

In terms of ease of repair, and costs, if you see worn out diff bushings, they should be first on the list, imo. They are quick and easy to replace. Of course if you see other driveline slack, that can also be addressed. Always make sure your drive shaft is fully greased, and not just with a pump or two as this removes some driveline shock as well.

 

[shadynwa]

In terms of ease of repair, and costs, if you see worn out diff bushings, they should be first on the list, imo. They are quick and easy to replace. Of course if you see other driveline slack, that can also be addressed. Always make sure your drive shaft is fully greased, and not just with a pump or two as this removes some driveline shock as well.

You are correct. I was just warning anyone hoping for big improvements that diff bushings will play a very small role.

Keeping driveline greased is important, as you mentioned.

I was really convinced my issue was on the front differential input side before repairs, I was wrong.

 

[baltistyle]

But if your only issue would have been diff bushings, they would have played the only role…like in my case. Start with the simplest solution, in general

 

[diesel22]

Picking this thread back up - Could anyone direct me to a way to check if my differential bushings are bad before I order the parts? Want to address my clunk and was recommended to this as a good first step.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Zuberg]

Find someone you REALLY trust and isn't a beneficiary of your life insurance coverage and lay under the truck and watch the diff move while someone shifts.

Honestly though I'd skip that, it's a very safe assumption to say they're shot if you're over 200k miles and still on the original bushings.

 

[diesel22]

Find someone you REALLY trust and isn't a beneficiary of your life insurance coverage and lay under the truck and watch the diff move while someone shifts.

Honestly though I'd skip that, it's a very safe assumption to say they're shot if you're over 200k miles and still on the original bushings.

I will dig through the records again to see if they have been done and if not order the parts. as provided by @willyroo. @Zuberg thank you. Any idea how long of a job this is?

 

[Zuberg]

Couple hour job with hammer and cold chisel. Could probably knock it out in an hour with air hammer though.

 

[Land Shark]

Very easy actually. Even the hammering the front one out was not that bad and I used a regular hammer and chisel. Dont forget to support the diff when dropping these out

 

[AlpineAccess]

Find someone you REALLY trust and isn't a beneficiary of your life insurance coverage and lay under the truck and watch the diff move while someone shifts.

Honestly though I'd skip that, it's a very safe assumption to say they're shot if you're over 200k miles and still on the original bushings.

I ordered all of mine through Partsouq as I didn't want to deal with pressing in and out. The only one you have to mess with pulling is the one in the diff housing itself and it comes out easy enough. I'd swap the two assemblies first as they take ten minutes and go for a drive before deciding to pull the in-housing bushing. I have done that one several times on different 100's and they generally look fine. In most cases the warn out bushing is the support arm, which allows the diff to "wrap" a bit.

 

[TahoeZ]

The play in the diff doesn't look excessive in your video but you don't show all three bushing locations. My experience reflects what was stated above: The front DS arm bushing wears much faster than the other two locations. I bought an entire arm assembly and swapped the whole thing out. If you do that, you can replace just the bushing in the arm you take off at your leisure and keep it as a backup. Takes 10-15 minutes after you have the skids off.

Most of the "thunk" noise in mine was CV axles and hub flanges.

 

[diesel22]

Couple hour job with hammer and cold chisel. Could probably knock it out in an hour with air hammer though.

Thanks all for feedback on here. I’ve got my cruiser at the dealer and they are estimating about $750 for both bushings saying the differential has to come out for one of them. This is just labor as I supplied all these parts.

Way off base? I was under impression it was a simpler job but it is a dealer. For what it’s worth the main tech is pretty legit as I understand it and does have experience with 100 series