Quick question on new radiator for FJ40 350 V8 conversion

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Seems like people have had a good experience with the CC180 Champion 3 Row Aluminum Radiator in the past, but wanted to check to see if that is still a good option.

I got the new FJ to fire up this morning so need to address this since the current radiator looks to be of marginal condition.

Thanks!

 
Yes, there are a lot of good comments and the price is right. Some have also gone Ron Davis or Griffin, but it's a lot more expensive and it's not clear it's worth it.
 
I swear that you guys have organized super helpful people to answer newbie questions within minutes of them being asked.

Super helpful - thanks!
 
I put one in last summer. After several flushes of the system and a proper overflow tank, everything has been good!
 
Thanks for the first hand experience.

Just ordered one.

Now on to the, approximate calculation here, 399,999 other items that I need to address.
 
@Vandal FJ - what overflow did you settle on. I'm looking for one.
 
I've got one of these in my 40 (with an SBC), and one on the shelf that will go in the 45 (1F). Fairly compact and heavy plastic. Amazon product ASIN B002RLCP9Y
I went through two of the champion radiators in the 40 with an SBC a few years back, wasn't looking at getting better cooling performance but rather price. Unfortunately they both started to leak at the bottom after a short period (few months each). Best I could figure was the aluminum didn't handle the flex inherent in the radiator mounts. So I went back to OEM.
 
Thanks.

Do you do mostly street use or off-road? Anyway to better brace the assembly so it doesn't flex as much?
 
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Mostly dirt roads and off road (but not rock crawling or purposely flexing) in the sage brush hills around us. Isolating the flex from the radiator is the best, meaning some sort of rubber bushings at the 4 mount locations and also under the support to the frame connection. I added an additional radiator support arm - mine go from the support to the firewall on the '65 FJ40. Other than that I was baffled on how to prevent this from happening.

Here's a thread from 2011 on my situation, FWIW. Radiator Support & Flex Question
 
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Thanks for the follow-up, will take a good hard look at that before install the new radiator (which actually just arrived).
 
Just to add.. I've been running that CC180 for about a year now and its worked very well for me so far. Wasn't to confident with the cap though so upgraded that to an ACDelco.
 
Thanks Brian.

Did you add any rubber blocks or similar to help isolated the radiator from vibration?
 
eng.webp
I put an aluminum Champion in my 40 a few years ago and so far it has been doing the job keeping the 350 at acceptable temps.
Temp gauge has gotten up to 200 on 90 degree days pulling a long hill but drops down after leveling off.
I am using the marginal cap that came with the radiator but think an upgrade might help keep the temp down better.

I have an electric fan and shroud that pulls air through the fins.

I read up a little on brass Vs. aluminum before buying and the trade offs seemed to balance out so decided on the aluminum partly for price and partly for bling.

I am not unhappy with the aluminum but my memory says the original four row radiator was better.
The original radiator was about 15 years old when it started leaking.
Had it rebuilt and went another five years before leaking problems and kept patching it for a while until it just wouldn't hold together any period of time so found a new three row and ran it for a couple of years.

It worked ok in winter but heated up just pulling out of the garage on a warm summer day.
I still have it boxed up on a shelf in case I need an emergency rad in the event the aluminum one takes a crap.
I would consider another aluminum when the time comes but then again my memory says the brass was better.

As usual reading these posts I am happy with the way something is set up and then someone suggest a problem and I start to worry.

Now flex on the radiator in mentioned.

The radiator on my 1970 is bolted into a U shaped piece of metal that is bolted to the front cross member and a quarter inch rod runs from the upper right hand corner to the firewall.

The mounting bracket more or less floats there.

I can't see how it can be made any less stressful.

Rubber bushings alone will not help. You will need to use a grommet type setup where the bolts holding the radiator are cushioned by the rubber. Just a thought.
 
I too switched to Champion about a year ago works great with Taurus e-fan and Amazon purchased overflow. I used some rubber bushings to isolate it a bit as well as a radiator cap with a cathode. I heard about flex and electrolysis causing some havoc with these. Mine was a bit tricky due to motor position after the NV4500 addition. I have some photos of all fab work and parts used if you would like.
Bottom line, best cooling I’ve had so far.
 
I've been running a stk 4 row rad in my 40 for over 30 yrs. The problems I've had was when I didn't run a good fan shroud or no shroud. 1st sbc was a 450hp and the cooling capacity was at its limit with no shroud. I also found it was maginal with a BBC, and additional cooling was required. I run an aggressive steel fan properly positioned in the fan shroud. No fan clutch. Currently temps are easily kept in check with my good running stk 350. Anymore, Its manly a trail rig, but I have no problem driving it on the street for hours if the fuel mileage was better. I used to drive a lot of street and trail in the past.
 

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