Quick alternator question; 2F onto 1F?

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Will a 2F alternator fit onto my 1F motor in my '71 as long as they are both externally regulated?

I'm asking since all the wreckers around here have a crapload of 2F stuff but no decent (not hacked) 1F parts. They look to be similar apart from the length of the adjuster arm mount from what the parts guy showed me.

Also, anyone have a list off the top of their head as to which 2F parts may fit onto a 1F motor? I'm trying to compile a list of compatible stuff just in case; all I know so far is the later gear reduction starters can bolt straight on.

Thanks guys

:cheers:
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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Don't know about the alternator, but the first thing I'd take off a 2F for an F engine is the nice aluminium valve cover. And the big-head distributer (with matching side plate). Intake manifold could be made to fit. Waterpump would probably fit.
Heck, just get the whole 2F and put it in....
 
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Here's my 1F with a 2F era alternator. It's seriously rigged but holds up weel, at least until a find a better bracket.

DSC00411.jpg
 

Coolerman

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If you get the alternator, also get the alternator mounting bracket. It will bolt right up to your F block and will move the alternator higher. An added benifit is you now have a place to put a power steering pump!

If you want to keep the F alternator (so you don't have to upgrade your Amp gauge to the 2F version) then just swap the front alternator case from the 2F onto your F alternator. That's what I did as you can see in the pic.
Waterpumppulley.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info guys, looks like it should bolt straight up with relative ease.

If you want to keep the F alternator (so you don't have to upgrade your Amp gauge to the 2F version) then just swap the front alternator case from the 2F onto your F alternator. That's what I did as you can see in the pic.

What's this about swapping the Amp gauge for hte 2F model? Is the 2F alt's output that much higher that a 'beefier' Amp gauge is needed?
 

Coolerman

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F engined amp gauges are 30 amps. the later 2F amp gauges are 50 amp.

If you put a 2F 40-50 amp output alternator, into a truck with a 30 amp gauge, then actually put a load of more than 30 amps, (like a totally discharged battery and driving at night with headlights and a heater for example), or maybe running a winch, you will exceed the amp gauge rating burning it up.

Ideally you should find a 2F gauge and swap it in AND upgrade your wiring from the alternator to the battery with the next larger size (8ga)

OR just bypass your 30 amp gauge and call it good! :hillbilly:
 
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Hey Coolerman, tell me if this is right.
It's my understanding that all 2F alternators have the mounting tabs (holes) directly accross from each other (12 and 6 O'Clock, where as the 1F alt has the mounting holes at 12 and 8 O'Clock. Also, the 1F alt goes on the drivers side, and the 2F alt goes on the passenger side.
So now I'm on the look out for an old 1F alt case to put my current alt (2F) in. I ran headlights, foglights and amplifier but didn't come close to maxxing out the amp-meter. Please correct me if Im missinformed.


F-alts.gif
 

FJ40Jim

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I'm not coolerman, but...
In the USA, the 2F air pump replaces the F low mount alternator.

In most of the rest of the world, the alt stayed down on the left side on F & 2F.

For a USA truck, it is possible to disassemble the two alternators and build a hybrid w/ the 2F electrics and the F front housing.
IIRC, you can even go with a 79-later alternator to get a one wire, internal regulated alt.
 
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So if I now have an alt with mounting holes at 12 and 6 O'Clock, it's a 2F then?
 

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