Quick Alignment Question

S4Cruiser

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This may seem trivial to most but I've searched and haven't been able to locate an answer for my question (see below).

I recently installed an OME 2.5 medium lift but have yet to install castor correction bushings. I had a castor sweep done earlier this week and here are the results -

Camber Left (0.0) Right (0.3)
Castor Left (-1.0) Right (-0.9)
Toe Left (1.18) Right (-0.9)

I want to get it aligned sooner than later so I can drive it around town without screwing my tires. If I have it aligned (Toe correction) before correcting for castor, will the Toe likely be out again after castor correction (haven't and probably won't have time to install the correction bushings for a few weeks)? i.e. will I waste money and need two alignments?

Also, I'm thinking that Slee blues would be more appropriate than the OME yellow bushings to get me back as close to spec for castor - correct?

Thoughts?

Cheers - Jon
 

landtank

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slee's bushings should put you at about the minimum of the factory spec. Caster plates would put you at the maximum of factory spec. So look at the truck and if you like the stance as it is then go with Slee's bushings. If you have a little stink bug you could install plates and have some room for a 1" spacer up front to level it out.

The toe will change once you've corrected for caster. If you don't drive too much I'd wait for the alignment until after you have corrected for caster.
 

landtank

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when you rotate the axle it effects all the alignment numbers, caster, camber and toe. They are all tied together with that single move.

I don't know by how much but if you have a choice I'd do the alignment afterwards. I personally tape measure align my truck and as well as others without problems. But it depends on how picky you want to be.
 

landtank

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one thing that is funny is that toe is not independent of each side but the numbers show one side off more than the other. His total toe is .28 which is within specs and doesn't need to be adjusted anayway.
 

S4Cruiser

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Thanks Rick -

So my camber number for the right side might improve (a good thing) with the castor correction? I was under the impression that camber wasn't adjustable on our trucks but was more a function of wheel bearing pre-load, etc, etc...however I am a newb and constantly learning.

I wish I had pre lift alignment numbers to compare but like in golf hindsight is a b!tch...

-Jon
 

landtank

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Thanks Rick -

So my camber number for the right side might improve (a good thing) with the castor correction? I was under the impression that camber wasn't adjustable on our trucks but was more a function of wheel bearing pre-load, etc, etc...however I am a newb and constantly learning.

I wish I had pre lift alignment numbers to compare but like in golf hindsight is a b!tch...

-Jon

camber isn't adjustable as far as the factory is concerned but it is influenced by the axle's position. Camber is the relationship of the top and bottom king pins on a vertical plane parallel to the axle. So positive camber means the top pin is further out or away from the center of the axle than the bottom one.

As you rotate the axle the pins move away from a vertical position to move horizontal and it measures lower.

I wouldn't worry about having pre alignment numbers. You know where you are now and just decide what method you want to use to fix caster and the rest will fall into place.
 

S4Cruiser

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one thing that is funny is that toe is not independent of each side but the numbers show one side off more than the other. His total toe is .28 which is within specs and doesn't need to be adjusted anayway.
Ok - I'm starting to get it/understand.

One more thing - the truck seems to pull to the right more than it did prelift but not excessive. Would this be more a function of larger tires wanted to follow the slope of the road (to the right) or could my toe numbers create a slight pull even though they are in spec when considered together?
 

landtank

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Ok - I'm starting to get it/understand.

One more thing - the truck seems to pull to the right more than it did prelift but not excessive. Would this be more a function of larger tires wanted to follow the slope of the road (to the right) or could my toe numbers create a slight pull even though they are in spec when considered together?

this is do to the fact that your caster is low. When the caster is low the truck tracks terribly and wonders the road being influenced by ruts, puddles and cross winds.

Fix the caster and all will be OK, I'm sure.
 
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one thing that is funny is that toe is not independent of each side but the numbers show one side off more than the other. His total toe is .28 which is within specs and doesn't need to be adjusted anayway.

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, but questions still arise. I just had an alignment check done and they went ahead and "fixed" the alignment. In dealing with toe, my total is 0.04in, LF 0.03, and RF 0.02. The specs the shop gave are 0.05-0.15 (total), 0.03-0.08 (LF/RF).

1. Should I worry more about the total or the independent numbers?

2. After a shop "fixes" the alignment, shouldn't the numbers be within spec?

3. They stated my toe bar is frozen and therefore my steering wheel maybe off center and may push right. What exactly would be frozen, if they "fixed" my alignment? How can I get my steering wheel back straight? Why would it push right?

Sorry about all of the questions. Overwhelmed with reading threads and feeling like I might have just got out of prison. Patience my dear friends.

Eric
 

landtank

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"frozen" usually means that they can't adjust the rod. Tie Rod Ends thread into the rods like a bolt. Adjustment is done by rotating the rod as one end is right hand thread and the other is left hand thread. Over time they can rust into place and can't easily be adjusted so they are then frozen.

There are various ways to get them free, generally you get a torch and heat the crap out of the rod. Depending on how aggressive you get you could break something before being able to adjust it. Because of this a lot of shops won't get to aggressive as customers would expect a free repair not understanding that it is do to age and just because it wasn't broke when it was brought in doesn't mean the shop is responsible.
 
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"frozen" usually means that they can't adjust the rod. Tie Rod Ends thread into the rods like a bolt. Adjustment is done by rotating the rod as one end is right hand thread and the other is left hand thread. Over time they can rust into place and can't easily be adjusted so they are then frozen.

There are various ways to get them free, generally you get a torch and heat the crap out of the rod. Depending on how aggressive you get you could break something before being able to adjust it. Because of this a lot of shops won't get to aggressive as customers would expect a free repair not understanding that it is do to age and just because it wasn't broke when it was brought in doesn't mean the shop is responsible.

So what would they have been able to adjust, to "fix" the toe and alter the angle of my steering wheel?
 

landtank

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Dunno. probably just throwing something out there so they can justify getting paid.

Around here the tire shops who find frozen or bad components will explain the issues and when you bring back the vehicle with the problems resolved they give you a free alignment.


Not sure what full service shops do as I don't use them.
 

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