Question ?

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Dec 22, 2009
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hello all
I have a 2002 land cruiser v8 4.7 efi 120 milge from middle east and i want to ask can i install an afe 51-12262 Intake the one can fit 2000-2004 tundra 4.7 engine and the jbl headrs also for tha same tundra or any suggestions ? Thank you all​
 
Not sure on the intake, but its been my experience that the 4.7 tundra parts do not always translate to the 4.7 LC motor. For the headers, I am not positive, but I don't think they will fit, otherwise I think there would been a lot more threads on them. There really wasn't much header threads until Doug Thorley came out with his in the last couple years.
 
No on the headers, others have tried it and they don't fit. You need LC specific headers and there's only one out at the moment. Search for the intakes, I've seen pics of other trucks that have the K&N one, not sure about other brands.
 
LHD headers will not fit RHD vehicles IIRC. Trunk monkey is correct, the tundra headers will not fit. The firewall is a different design.

If you are located in the Middle East and your vehicle sees sand, I would not install the K&N, it will allow debris into the engine and cause a lot of troubles. I would stick with the OEM Toyota air box as the K&N doesn't give you any extra power.
 
Don't know why one would change the intake manifold. If I found necessary, I'd check by looking up part number for & from specific application along with any parts attached like TB, ECT sensor & gauge.....
1 2UZ-FE Intake Manifold.webp

BTW, I have the K&N filter with at least 100K miles on it, installed by PO. I've always wonder if should replace and would if I drove in very dusty conditions. But admittedly I like not having to buy new filter all the time and really not sure which one I would replace with.

I do look at air box with fine dust discoloration, but don't find same down stream around MAF Meter. I recently tested down stream with Q-tip and happy with lack of dust or grim.
Sea Foam T-Body 050.webp

Sea Foam T-Body 050.webp


1 2UZ-FE Intake Manifold.webp
 
But admittedly I like not having to buy new filter all the time and really not sure which one I would replace with.

I replace mine every 25,000. It costs me $25 or so, and I know my engine is breathing very clean air. K&N filters let more grit into the engine, and if it's oiled it can wreck havoc on the MAF sensor. To each his own, but OEM for me. Cheap and high quality. I put my truck in very harsh conditions, so having clean air is my main priority for the engine. If you don't wheel, and all highway, you will be fine. Long term, I can't speak for K&N on the 100. They are a huge company, you can't make terrible products and sell thousands a day. A lot of members freak out over the K&N debate, I prefer not to get into it, but I do admit they do not have the filtering capability of OEM.

I also think the OP was referring to a intake system, not the intake manifold.
 
Didn't look at what afe 51-12262 is.

You like the OEM filter good to know, thanks.

I've read some interesting info on K&N and do find it concerning for the oil issue and dust issues. That is why I check down stream with Q-tip and clean MAF meter, once I've burn through a couple tanks of gas after oiling filter. I really do need to get that K&N out one of these days, just based on what I've read outside of mud.
 
I wouldn't lose sleep over it. I'm sure your engine is fine. I was referring to harsh conditions and lots of dust/dirt. If the K&N was as bad as MUD made it out to be, K&N would of been bankrupt a long time ago. There is no scientific data showing that K&N filters are bad for your engine. At least not that I know of. They do have less surface area and less filtering capacity, but I don't think enough to destroy a 2UZ.
 
If you're curious, run an analysis from Blackstone with K&N and then switch to paper at the next oil change and run again after the same miles on the oil. In theory you'll see a decrease in wear with paper air filter as the fine particles are kept from abraiding the cylinder walls. Not to mention the benefit of keeping oil mist off your throttle plate and MAF sensor.
 
I was going to do just that some years ago and order the test kit from Blackstone. Shamefully the kit is on my shelf, I just lost interest. In part because my Q-tip's test looks so good. It was a study in; see: bob as the oil guy that first concerned me on this issue.

I tend to oil the filter heavy, and as i said; then clean MAF after some time/miles has past air through filter. Before cleaning I get out a Q-tip and retest, I've not ever seen red oil or grim on cotton tip.

Let me ask will MAF spray cleaner thoroughly clean MAF Meter and do this without leaving oil residue or damaging it?

Maybe my vibration in "D" is in part from over oiling, I'll pick-up a paper filter to see.

A Note: I was also wondering about TB getting oily from K&N filter. But again my Q-tip indicates this is not the case. Inspect intake air ducting I've surmised; by 10 times more grim at down-stream-end (near TB) than near MAF side. That grim in TB throat & on throttle valve mostly from DS PCV vacuum line which is attached down stream of MAF.
 
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Let me ask will MAF spray cleaner thoroughly clean MAF Meter and do this without leaving oil residue or damaging it?

MAF cleaner is a high VOC solvent that does its job of rinsing off and then evaporates without appreciable residue. You've got to douse the thing thoroughly and let the cleaner completely flow through the device to have it do it's job.

Back to the foam filter. How often are you at WOT?
 
MAF cleaner is a high VOC solvent that does its job of rinsing off and then evaporates without appreciable residue. You've got to douse the thing thoroughly and let the cleaner completely flow through the device to have it do it's job.

Back to the foam filter. How often are you at WOT?
If your asking me how often am I washing the cotton K&N filter, right at 20,000 miles.
 
How often are you at wide open throttle (WOT)?
Typically not often, but over last two tank of gas very often. In-fact daily currently, once warmed up while getting on HWY.
 
I ask because anything on the intake side provides zero value until other restrictions (like a partially open throttle body valve!) are removed. Doesn't do much good to have a high flow filter that's doing a subpar job of removing particulates only to restrict it back down through other means. Only at WOT will other restrictions start to benefit the system. It would be like bringing a 4" water line to your house but restrict it down to a 5/8" meter. It might get to the meter faster, but at a given pressure, that little 5/8" meter has a fixed cV and will only flow a certain amount regardless of the size of feed. K&N does a great job of marketing but I just don't see the point in general and in our trucks in particular, especially in a particulate-generating environment such as dusty trails.

Exhaust improvements, OTOH, (usually) bring improvement (power and efficiency) across the power range.
 
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