I was talking to Tim over at Sackwear and he said this is one he had been looking at. This one gives me something to shoot for in the long term. I really like the way the TRD wheels look..............actually like the way the whole thing looks.
On the brakes, I went with Napa rotors and pads when I did my FZJ upgrade (91-92 had smaller front brakes) and I have been happy. I did slotted rotors on my T4R and I'm not sure I can tell alot of difference in them vs. the originals that were on it. I am sure there are those who will say that they are soo much better and all the usual stuff, but I can honestly say I am not sure they are that much better. I guess if you are going to be driving it a lot and braking hard alot, then they will help disipate the heat better, but if you are just going to be cruising on the weekends or just driving to the office and back, I'd just go with solid rotors. Plus, just remember if you are out wheeling in any mud those little slots and holes will just be another place to get stuff caked into, I am guessing as I have no experience with this, but it would make sense, at least in my head it does.
It will be a weekend driver only and maybe a to the office a day or 2 a week. Didn't even think about the mud and crap in the slots but I could see that.
Any recommendation of someone around east Tn that could do my axle job? The guy that was going to do it is behind at work and he can do them for a while. I'm tried of waiting and want to get this thing on the road.
Jynx, I really appreciate that. A buddy of mine called me this evening and I was asking him if he knew someone, he told me to bring it over to his garage and we would do the axles. He's one of these guys that can watch a video or read instructions and do any kind of repair. Hopefully we'll be able to knock it out this weekend so I can get this thing on the road. I'm more than ready
You guys can do it. It seems intimidating, but it isn't bad at all.
you just need a handful of actual tools, a good hammer and a brass punch for the cone washers. If you don't have the 54mm socket a 2 1/8" will do the job (check me on that) good set of jack stands. Make sure you have plenty of grease, might even go ahead a pack all the bearings ahead if you have some free time. Keep track of where the shims go on the knuckle caps. and make sure you have LOTS of shop towels, a couple catch pans for the axle ends and some of those latex type gloves for working with the Moly grease... that stuff is nasty if you get it on you.
Once you knock it out you will be glad you did it and will realize it really wasn't that bad, and you will be ready to knock out the next thing on the list.
Anyone know the exact size of the hub socket I'll need? I looked it up and saw a couple different sizes. Also, do you know if that's something I can find local or will I need to order it? Thanks for putting up with all my questions.............John
I will check in the morning for you. I got mine at sears, I do remember that much. 3/4" drive.
Prep for my axle job the night before.
I think this was after.... the rotors are the old ones and the chunk is the factory geared one because I had dropped in a 5.29 geared one during the rebuild.
It took me a day, mostly by myself. I spent the second day sorting the new brakes and topping off the new brakes.
I still haven't done my axles yet but I'm hoping things will slow down at work this week and I can do them this weekend. I did notice this morning a few drops of anti freeze on the garage floor under where the radiator sets. I either have a leak in it or maybe I'll get lucky and it will be a hose. I'm not driving so I'm betting it may be the radiator. If I have to get a new radiator, any advice of where and what kind I should buy? I just don't want to get something to save a few bucks and then it start giving me problems after a while. Thanks again for all the help, I truly appreciate it
Have you checked with @Sam Stewart if the local dealer wants $350, then I'm guessing they are selling it at list so you should be able to get one for $260-$270 plus the ride. I think @Kyle Toyota OEM handles most of his ordering these days. And I will guarantee that the local dealer will have to order it in, so time wise it might cost you a day or two, but it will come to you.
Besides that, check the parting out threads in MUD classifieds. There are several guys who part rigs for a living so I'm sure you can find an OE one new for much cheaper or a good used one for less than that ebay one.
Also, you scored a deal on that rig at that price. I'm a little jealous.
I know I'm becoming a bit of an OEM snob, but those parts are good stuff guaranteed.
I checked around and found one at Spector Off Road for $154. It's aftermarket but seems to be good quality, at least I hope it is. My radiator looked to be on it's last days so I ordered a new one last week. While I have the grill out I'm going to replace belts, hoses, front seal, distributor O ring, and oil pump cover O ring. I'm going to try and make this thing as road and trail worthy as possible. The PHH about got the best of us, wound up taking a good 2 hours. I'm glad that's over with.
Got a suspension question. I'm wanting to get my cruiser up enough to clear 315/75/16's and I plan on putting some heavy duty front and rear bumpers and a winch on, other than OME, is there another option out there for springs and shocks? I've been pricing some stuff I'm going to need and looks like I'll have close to a grand in an OME suspension set-up, just wondering if there's something out there that's comparable and priced better?
If I was buying something new I'd go with ironman. Heard tons of good things about them. Also if you want a good ride step up to the foam cell or foam cell pro shocks. The pros seem to be in line with some of the higher end units like fox or icon.
If you want to drop some serious coin you could go after a slee setup, but be prepared for some sticker shock.
I would start with a 2" setup and maybe a spacer if it stinkbugs on you. Ironman's caster bushings are adjustable to help dial it in. Once you get into the 4" plus realm then you will start getting into driveline issues and other expensive tail chases. To that end, that's why Slee's setup is $$$, it comes with pretty much everything you might need to go north of 4".
I'd call IPOR, trollhole, ACC, Slee, or metaltech and lay out your plan and see what they recommend. I'm sure any one of them would be happy to help
