Quality Double Flaring Tool (1 Viewer)

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bmorefj40

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Does anyone know where to get a quality double flaring tool for doing brake lines? I fooled around with the HF junk, but was less than impressed with the output- (ie- wouldn't want to trust it when braking at high speed).

Does Grainger carry something reputable? If the tool is more than >$100, I might be better off buying the lines prebent and flared from cruiser solutions. I'm not getting into the business of doing brake lines, just want to finish my front disc swap.

Thanks,
Nick
 
I bought a Kal-Tool or something like that from NAPA...POS retuned it. I use these fancy little gismos.
S-300-6.jpeg
 
If all you are doing is getting two hardlines for the front, you are gonna be better off just buying prebent ones for around $70.

I went with Mastercool Universal Flaring Tool that was a bit over your $100 mark. But it does double flare, single flare, bubble flare, and the new GM fuel line flare:eek:



Just a bit over your 100.00us mark.... :lol:


2x on the Mastercool. Slick product.




It works VERY WELL.



Mastercool <---- this is a link



:beer:
 
so I guess this one probably won't cut it? it's hydraulic or nothing?
Mastercool 70092 - Flaring, Double Flaring and Cutting Tool Set $60.30
Mastercool 70092 - Flaring, Double Flaring - Cutting Tool Set

Coolerman- is this what you referring to? looks the same as the HF one and about the same price, but it doesn't let the tube push out of the jig on the initial flare, then it's worth it.
Eastwood Co. - Tubing Flaring Kit Double Single

Sears had one for about $60, but not sure if anyone has had any luck with that.

If I'm looking at $375 for the right tool to do the job, then I might as well pay the professionals.
 
bmorefj40,
I wouldn't say it was hydro or nothing. If there was a mechanical version of it, I would have bought it;) While I used it only one rig, I had planned on using it for another.

The largest issue with the style you show is getting a good clamp. I can't recall the number of times I used that style only to have the tube slip out.




I agree, and I think that it is the design of that tube holder.

Specifically, as the smaller tube holes are in the center of it, opposed to other styles available, where the smaller tube holes are at the open end of the holder, permitting you to tighten the holder on the tube side first, and then the pivot end, and getting you enough leverage on the tube to prevent it from slipping out of the holder.

Also, a screwdriver works well as a lever on those wing nuts to get them tight, since you cannot remove the lever of the screw press on that style.




I own multiple brake-flaring kits and ended up purchasing another one while on the road in Indiana last February. I got off the Interstate with the pull truck and trailer, and the brake pedal went to the floor. :eek:



I stopped the truck and trailer with the electric trailer brakes, and was able to drive to an O’Reillys auto parts store, where, I rented a brake-flaring tool, purchased some brake line and fluid, and proceeded to repair the rusted and ruptured brake line in their well-lit parking lot in less than an hour. Bled the brake circuit, and away we go.



I liked the kit that I rented so much that when I returned it, I purchased it from them, and now, I have another one. :lol:




:meh:
 
The only way i could get my double flaring tool to clamp on to the tube tight enough was to put it in a vice then yarn down on the wing nuts.
 

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