Q: Best engine upgrade for HJ60 (1 Viewer)

[watrob]

Thanks watrob, but I know, the 2H is IDI, the 12HT is DI, the 12HT also has oilspray piston cooling.
The thing is, I have a 2H, new bearings and all 10K km ago, all painted and nice, with a turbo on the side, just no head.
I bought the engine about 5 years ago, payed 1.800 for it, after I had been told it had just been renovated, and it had, no doubt about it! Byt the guy i bought it from had his rig stolen, and a couple of kids flipped it. This was apparantly not good on the engine, when I opened it I found two bend pushrods and cracks in the head

So the hunt is on for a good cylinderhead...

It's a pity your so far away from Australia, the 2h are very common here. I would keep an eye on Ebay Australia, I reckon you could buy a head there and they would ship it internationally. Propably cost your a couple hundred dollars for frieght but I reackon you would buy the head for a couple hundred as well.

 

[watrob]

Hi Christian,

Here's a head for $150.00 on Austrlain Ebay, send him an email and he would probably arrange international frieght.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/landcruiser-...ryZ10428QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Robert

 

[Christian]

Thanks alot Robert, I have sent him a mail, I'll keep you posted!

 

[Christian]

Update on the engine. I bought a Garrett VNT turbo over Ebay. It comes from a 2006 Merc 320CDI V6. 300€! Which is 437$
I think VNT system is a great system, and can't wait to fiddle with it.

I intend to build a new manifold for it, I have searched everywhere, including the entire web (been sick for week or so, had nothing better to do...) and I haven't found ANY examples of diy 2H turbo manifold projects?

Pic of the TURBO!

(I know it looks weird with the split on the exhaust intake, but it bolts of...)

 

[Tapage]

In my Tencha thread ( ROTW ) 60 Section you can see my factory 12H-T turbo adapter replica .. could be a solution or at least a option for you ..

 

[Christian]

Thanks alot Tencha, but I plan on making a stainless steel manifold with the runners in Ø42 x 3,2mm thickness.

 

[Tapage]

Thanks alot Tencha, but I plan on making a stainless steel manifold with the runners in Ø42 x 3,2mm thickness.

.... big league ..

 

[Dougal]

Update on the engine. I bought a Garrett VNT turbo over Ebay. It comes from a 2006 Merc 320CDI V6. 300€! Which is 437$
I think VNT system is a great system, and can't wait to fiddle with it.

I intend to build a new manifold for it, I have searched everywhere, including the entire web (been sick for week or so, had nothing better to do...) and I haven't found ANY examples of diy 2H turbo manifold projects?

Pic of the TURBO!

(I know it looks weird with the split on the exhaust intake, but it bolts of...)

Is that a GT2359V?
If so, excellent score, but it'll take some work to fit. I have a GT2256V which I hope to fit to an Isuzu engine shortly.

 

[Christian]

Im pretty sure the parts number is GTA2052GVK, but it really difficult to be sure, maybe I'll know more when it gets here.

 

[Dougal]

Im pretty sure the parts number is GTA2052GVK, but it really difficult to be sure, maybe I'll know more when it gets here.

2052's are usually fitted to engines under 3 litres, it might still have enough puff to run low boost figures to your engine revlimit.
Pulling off the compressor cover will let you confirm it, the wheel size in millimetres is the last two digits (i.e. 52) in the model number.

 

[Christian]

2052's are usually fitted to engines under 3 litres, it might still have enough puff to run low boost figures to your engine revlimit.
Pulling off the compressor cover will let you confirm it, the wheel size in millimetres is the last two digits (i.e. 52) in the model number.

It comes from the new V6 3L engine designated OM642, and as far as my research goes it must be the 2052. Merc diesels rev pretty high, compaired to the 2H, so I think it will do the job. Where does your 2256 come from? And I know the last digits tells the size of the compressorwheel, but what about the first two? Whats the difference between 20, 22 and 23 series?

 

[Dougal]

It comes from the new V6 3L engine designated OM642, and as far as my research goes it must be the 2052. Merc diesels rev pretty high, compaired to the 2H, so I think it will do the job. Where does your 2256 come from? And I know the last digits tells the size of the compressorwheel, but what about the first two? Whats the difference between 20, 22 and 23 series?

I often use this site to match up turbos to their original application.
TurboMaster - Passenger Cars
It does list GTA2052gvk for the OM642.

My GT2256V is from a 2.7L V6, the ML270CDI with the OM612 engine. It's in the same list as that one.
The C320CDI has around 50hp more than the ML270 so there's gotta be something in the turbo sizing that isn't immediately apparent. Should be heaps for your 2H.

The first two digits in the turbo code are for turbine size, the numbers don't relate to anything specific other than a size range. You can compare it to others in the garrett catalogues.
Here's a fixed geometry GT2052, your turbo will push at least 10lb/min more than this one and produce much higher boost too.
TurboByGarrett.com - Catalog

 

[Christian]

I often use this site to match up turbos to their original application.
TurboMaster - Passenger Cars
It does list GTA2052gvk for the OM642.

It also lists a GT23VK, GT2056V and GT2056VK besides the GTA2052GVK. The seller listed the original parts number as: A 642 090 47 80, which doesn't show up on the list.
But all in all it should fit sizewise, thats what matters, I hope to make definite ID when it gets here!

 

[Christian]

I finally got the turbo!!!
It is in great shape, and I can't wait to see how it will fit.
I will take of the Y-shaped connector and the original Mercedes controller (the black box on the side) and add a vacuum/pressure thingy like the ones who controls wastegates will be fitted, (sorry can't remember what they are called. You all know what I mean)

 

[Christian]

A last shot of it:

 

[Dougal]

That sure is interesting, I haven't seen up close photos of a new one. They're usually on cars buried under hoses and heat shields.

I wasn't expecting that electric/mechanical controller to work on the exact same actuator that the pressure/vacuum ones use. That definitely makes things easier.

I'm currently trying to clock my one around to the position required (getting the oil inlet at the top, drain at the bottom) and it looks like I have some machining to do, I have to shift one of the vane support rollers internally to miss where the actuating arm will be.

 

[Christian]

[I wasn't expecting that electric/mechanical controller to work on the exact same actuator that the pressure/vacuum ones use. That definitely makes things easier.]
It should, but there will be some dialling in. I haven't been able to find anybody who has done this before, so it will be interesting! I have taken a pic of the actuator arm, I tried taking of the elecrical controller, it sits with a little C-clip, and the vanes moves so easy I thought that there was something broken inside, but I could just barelt see them moving through the turbine blades.

[I'm currently trying to clock my one around to the position required (getting the oil inlet at the top, drain at the bottom)]
As you can see in the second photo, my oil inlet and outlet sits on the same side, I will make a stainless oil manifold that will fit like original, since the metal around the holes are much too thin to tap.

 

[Christian]

Hey Guys!

Weel, it's time for a little update and a unexpected turn of events!

I have stumbled upon a VX100 wreck with 1HD-FTE engine and A442 auto-box in it. The rest has already been ripped, but drivetrain and harness is still there. Since some of it has already been dismantled I have no overview of what's missing...

But I got it for free!!!

*A lot of the electronis boxes where laying around in the remains of the interior, so there's a lot of sorting to do, and a lot of information seeking before this engine runs again.
Thats my biggest worry, I'm no electronics expert, so it seems like a mammoth task...

But - then again - I got it for free!!!

So I might need some advice, some pontyers and maybe some parts.
(What I don't need is somebody saying "drop it, it'll never work")

First of all I need to get it out of the wreck. I think that the more harness I can get with me, the better, but if any of you know about this stuff please let me know! I found the 4 relay pre-heat on the 2H complicated

 

[Dougal]

I think you'll need the whole dash, including the ignition barrell and key to get the imobiliser in the computer to work.

 

[Christian]

I think you'll need the whole dash, including the ignition barrell and key to get the imobiliser in the computer to work.

I think you're right. As of now I do not know if it's there though...