Q: Best engine upgrade for HJ60
- Thread starter Christian
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2H & 12HT in Australia from the wreckers in good running order and you can get one out of a wrecked HJ75 up to a early 1989 model for around $2,600 AUD. Whether a 60 series or 75 series the engine mounts etc are all the same up to early1989, after that they went to OHC & computer.
Saw a 12HT at the wreckers the other week and it looked like brand new. Hear is my 2H that I bought after I painted it etc.
Saw a 12HT at the wreckers the other week and it looked like brand new. Hear is my 2H that I bought after I painted it etc.
at the boost meter inside my car
mostly i use in 1.9 bar last in stock engine with non intercooler, just change the turbo with external wastegate. boost 2.1bar be4 nothing special just till the best is 1.9bar. until now my car running still ok, and the turbo also still ok, but i change to bigger turbo, and it cause worst of power be4 the size not accurate hahahaha
at the boost meter inside my car
mostly i use in 1.9 bar last in stock engine with non intercooler, just change the turbo with external wastegate. boost 2.1bar be4 nothing special just till the best is 1.9bar. until now my car running still ok, and the turbo also still ok, but i change to bigger turbo, and it cause worst of power be4 the size not accurate hahahaha
It means you are getting around 7 - 8 PSI .. and how much temp you get with your configuration ?
bro tapage:
i mean i read the boost meter at 1.9bar at meter, not mean 7-9psi i think about 28psi i think was too up high compare 7-9 psi, which is standard
i mean i read the boost meter at 1.9bar at meter, not mean 7-9psi i think about 28psi
i think was too up high compare 7-9 psi, which is standard
bro tapage:
i mean i read the boost meter at 1.9bar at meter, not mean 7-9psi i think about 28psi
again
Let's see .
1BAR = 14.7 PSI right ..
I remember when I had my 951 Porsche you can see in the gauge 2 BAR ( with a chip ) but that's teh absolute press on the intake manifold .. it means my ATM press here ( I'm at sea level ) + turbo press ..
But really it means you are boosting 14.7 PSI by turbo ..
The other situation in my Cruisers ( both Turbo diesels ) in my aftermarket Gauges you can read 14 PSI .. but this it's trully the boost press at the intake manifild .. not including the ATM press ..
comments ..
again
Let's see .
1BAR = 14.7 PSI right ..
I remember when I had my 951 Porsche you can see in the gauge 2 BAR ( with a chip ) but that's teh absolute press on the intake manifold .. it means my ATM press here ( I'm at sea level ) + turbo press ..
But really it means you are boosting 14.7 PSI by turbo ..
The other situation in my Cruisers ( both Turbo diesels ) in my aftermarket Gauges you can read 14 PSI .. but this it's trully the boost press at the intake manifild .. not including the ATM press ..
comments ..
i try to put my boost meter after turbo, be4 intercooler. now shown 1.6bar.. which last time is 1.9bar i tested be4, just last time without intercooler, so how to say? 1bar = 14.7psi like that, 1.6bar around 23.52psi now changed turbo, be4 at ct26 i used on 1.9bar =28psi, and i try be4 2.1bar = 31psi, there nothing different between 1.9 and 2.1 bar so last time on stock engine stock turbo, i raised to 1.9bar to normal use.. but be4 i boost up, in standard is around 10psi something, after my mechanic discover how to adjust the fuel pump, he help me open some fuel, and boost to 22psi like that, the power not amazing.. so the actual boost is how? i not so sure then,?
your gauge is either 0 at atmospheric pressure or reads the atmospheric pressure.
Example; my boost gauge reads in PSI, and it says 0 when the truck is sitting with the engine off. When I run it I can get 7 psi on the gauge. So if the atmoshpheric pressure is 14.7 on a standard day, I am really 21.7 psi in the manifold above 0 psi.
But normally the boost you read is what you make above atmospheric. You don't count atmospheric in the equation. I am having a hard time thinking you are really at 31 psi. Anything is possible. But that isn't great to boost your engine that high.
Example; my boost gauge reads in PSI, and it says 0 when the truck is sitting with the engine off. When I run it I can get 7 psi on the gauge. So if the atmoshpheric pressure is 14.7 on a standard day, I am really 21.7 psi in the manifold above 0 psi.
But normally the boost you read is what you make above atmospheric. You don't count atmospheric in the equation. I am having a hard time thinking you are really at 31 psi. Anything is possible. But that isn't great to boost your engine that high.
yes, when start engine is 0 psi, off also 0psi, these is exact 31psi, but it doesnot good, i think around 1.6bar 1.7bar was best in 12H-T and just to more fuel. this engine no problem, problem is the transmission, i got 4 auto . thats why need rolling start, if start 0-100, i think the gear box very fast mess up
intresting numbers, do you have any pics of your rig?
...thread officially hijacked ;p
on topic.
my 2 cents would be go for the 12H if you can get one for good money.
I love my motor, the grunt in these things when offroading is amazing, had a 3L hilux on 38" before and always had to be playing with the gears to keep going, the 12H just keeps on chugging even at 1000rpms in 3rd (high drive), well, if that´s what you are looking for on the down side the damn throttle can be a pain in the 
.
I haven´t driven a 1HZ myself so I really can´t comment on that motor and the 1HD is just so f-ing expensive I don´t see that it´s worth it over the 12H.
...thread officially hijacked ;p
on topic.
my 2 cents would be go for the 12H if you can get one for good money.
I love my motor, the grunt in these things when offroading is amazing, had a 3L hilux on 38" before and always had to be playing with the gears to keep going, the 12H just keeps on chugging even at 1000rpms in 3rd (high drive), well, if that´s what you are looking for
on the down side the damn throttle can be a pain in the .I haven´t driven a 1HZ myself so I really can´t comment on that motor and the 1HD is just so f-ing expensive I don´t see that it´s worth it over the 12H.
intresting numbers, do you have any pics of your rig?
...thread officially hijacked ;p
on topic.
my 2 cents would be go for the 12H if you can get one for good money.
I love my motor, the grunt in these things when offroading is amazing, had a 3L hilux on 38" before and always had to be playing with the gears to keep going, the 12H just keeps on chugging even at 1000rpms in 3rd (high drive), well, if that´s what you are looking for
I haven´t driven a 1HZ myself so I really can´t comment on that motor and the 1HD is just so f-ing expensive I don´t see that it´s worth it over the 12H.
Yes, 12H-T torque is amazing, even though i Testing car with many diesal / petrol engine car, my Starting is still in top, almost 1 car space or more even if their got power to chase up, i test with 13B-T , with same car body, landcruiser series 60 with high roof too, and the power i throwing to him, endless be at back smell smoke, and example 0-400, he end up with 50m behind.
But what i set on 1HD-T and change to garrett turbo, the power is more crazy, but if u have the budget, and for off roading, i think 12H-T would be better, because 12H-T is more TOUGH
- Thread starter
- #53
A depressing update on the engineswap.
After writing back and forth with Toyota denmark, they have declined any help.
Since I live in a somewhat overregulated country, it is impossible to go from a 2H to a 1HD-FTE (your only allowed a 20% increase in HP blablabla...)
I would never be able get licenseplates for it.
I reffered to the FJ62 with 3FE and 155 HP on the same brakes, axles ect.
While they were impressed that I had done all the research I have, laws, regulations ect., they were still as helpfull as dandruff!!!!
The funny thing is that Nissan helps the Patrol-owners?
After writing back and forth with Toyota denmark, they have declined any help.
Since I live in a somewhat overregulated country, it is impossible to go from a 2H to a 1HD-FTE (your only allowed a 20% increase in HP blablabla...)
I would never be able get licenseplates for it.
I reffered to the FJ62 with 3FE and 155 HP on the same brakes, axles ect.
While they were impressed that I had done all the research I have, laws, regulations ect., they were still as helpfull as dandruff!!!!
The funny thing is that Nissan helps the Patrol-owners?
quite the opposite over here, the Toyota dealership is the best I´ve ever had contact with, they´ve on more than occasion provided spare parts for guys with broken axles on the middle of a glacier on a Sunday. That and giving good info and schematics of this and that for the cars..... don´t know if it´s a cause or effect but 30% of all cars over here are Toyotas
maybe you could get the Toyota dealer in Iceland to vouch for this swap?
- Thread starter
- #57
Talos!
Great to hear that Toyota does support some fans of their cars! And not a bad idea, the thing is though that the law says that it has to be the importer...
For now I'm gonnas stick with what I have and worry about it later... I have never driven it with the turbo on, so I might be pleasantly surprised ( I hope)
Great to hear that Toyota does support some fans of their cars! And not a bad idea, the thing is though that the law says that it has to be the importer...
For now I'm gonnas stick with what I have and worry about it later... I have never driven it with the turbo on, so I might be pleasantly surprised ( I hope)
Hi all, Just remember that a 12HT turbo motor has compression ratio of 18:1.
A 2H has 20:1, so be carefull when you turbo the 2H. The 12HT has a different head and I think different pistons as well.
A 2H has 20:1, so be carefull when you turbo the 2H. The 12HT has a different head and I think different pistons as well.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks watrob, but I know, the 2H is IDI, the 12HT is DI, the 12HT also has oilspray piston cooling.
The thing is, I have a 2H, new bearings and all 10K km ago, all painted and nice, with a turbo on the side, just no head.
I bought the engine about 5 years ago, payed 1.800 for it, after I had been told it had just been renovated, and it had, no doubt about it! Byt the guy i bought it from had his rig stolen, and a couple of kids flipped it. This was apparantly not good on the engine, when I opened it I found two bend pushrods and cracks in the head
So the hunt is on for a good cylinderhead...
The thing is, I have a 2H, new bearings and all 10K km ago, all painted and nice, with a turbo on the side, just no head.
I bought the engine about 5 years ago, payed 1.800 for it, after I had been told it had just been renovated, and it had, no doubt about it! Byt the guy i bought it from had his rig stolen, and a couple of kids flipped it. This was apparantly not good on the engine, when I opened it I found two bend pushrods and cracks in the head
So the hunt is on for a good cylinderhead...
Totally diferent head and pistons .. but th 2H can handle the power until one limit .. ( I didn't found it yet
) Hey Tapage
Now we know that is true for Panamá and Denmark...
Lets get a pole for the rest of the world!
I'm gonna go your route now, turboed 2H
Here Toyota it's the king ! .. number 1 in all car sale sections .. from sports to suvs .. still useless when you need a part for a old model ( old I mean more than 5 years .. )