Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!? (2 Viewers)

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I had the great pleasure of driving this HZJ79.



Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Took my Cruiser up to McCall today to look at a FJ40 I will be doing a bunch of work on.

I stopped along the river to put it in 4wd and take a few pictures.

New wheels and tires coming for the truck next week.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

My little PZJ70 ripping along at 120kms/hr.

New 33" rubber coming next week. That should drop the rpms a bit over the 31's fitted now.

If you notice the water temp, it is cool and it always is on this truck. Reason why? It is a tropical spec truck so came from Toyota with a direct drive fan, i.e. no fan clutch. Everything is new in the cooling system so I am more than confident it is all working correctly and the reason it runs on the cool side is due to the direct drive fan.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Of course the first reply to this picture on social media was....

OMG look at the oil pressure!!



People really should have all the info before commenting or making assumptions.

Here is the thing, oil pressure gauge from what I have seen is a common failure on 70-series. 1HZ, 1pz, 13BT, it doesn't seem to matter which leads one to believe it is a gauge issue across the board or more to the point in the board, as in the electronic board behind the gauge panel. It was "in-op" when I bought this truck. I replaced the sending unit which has caused to to go from flat lined to spiked. Obviously it is still not working correctly. Also obviously if the truck had oil pressure issues it wouldn't run so well.

I will be trouble shooting the oil pressure gauge and wiring more to see if I can sort it out. But again, it is a common problem on diesel 70's and it is likely the gauge is shot or it is in the board.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I have the correct grill for this truck and the year. However, I like the newer style three bar more along with the larger front turn signals. What I have though is cheap Chinese knock off and I don't like the chrome. So I am getting a new grill and turn signals in black and OEM.

Also a new steering wheel clam shell in oak, some weatherstripping and a bunch of other parts to finish out my refurbish.

Three choices for wheels for me, OEM 16's, FJ60 15's and aftermarket. I am probably going to go FJ60 15's, I may powder coat them. Tires I am going 33x10.5 or 12.5 BFG KO2's.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Put new wheels and tires on the truck. 33x10.5r15 BFG KO2's. I like the look and stance.

I need to space my spare since it hits the rear bumper, got a bracket in route that should take care of that.

I have a set of Terrain Tamer vented rotors in route along with new front pads.

Cheers

 

[bjowett]

THAT looks 200% better!

 

[bjowett]

Wheel spacers also work great for pushing those spare tires out.

 

[SNLC]

Here is a little more of a breakdown on what is coming next week for this truck for anyone following along.


When I got the truck I found one mounting bolt for the front brake calipers was completely stripped out and another on the opposite side was nearly wasted as well. I tried to get some 2nd hand knuckles when I was in Latin America and rebuilding the front end. I did get my hands on some Hilux knuckles which can be made to work if you do a bit of grinding. I didn't want to do that though so I put the old knuckles back on, using red loctight on the mounting bolts. Recently I bought a tap & drill bit for the mounting holes in the knuckle for mounting the caliper. I was going to drill it, tap and fit new grade 8 bolts. I have changed my mind and instead I bought new OEM knuckles for both sides as well as new OEM mounting bolts for the calipers. I also purchased Terrain Tamer vented and drilled rotors. So I will be tearing down the front axle soon to fix this right and for good.

As I have seen on many 60-series Cruisers the steering wheel clam shell gets busted. It has been repaired on my truck with glue which I don't like one bit so I bought a new OEM LHD clam shell in oak.

I bought all the remaining parts for the back door catches and latches that I have not replaced yet. Just so it is all refurbished with new parts.

Many different grills were put on the 70-series and most interchange. Months ago I bought the correct grill for this year and model of 70. I like the 3-bar grill the most from 1999ish+ trucks. So I have bought that along with new turn signal assemblies. This truck being an LX had the "chrome" package. However, I am just not a fan of much chrome on my Cruisers. So the new grill and turn signals are black and I have also changed both outside mirrors to black.

After going through the e-brake on this truck it seems that the cable is wasted. So I have a new e-brake cable coming along with a new e-brake handle cover in oak.

Months ago I bought a good 2nd hand console and between mine and this one was able to get a good console. However, the top cover/door and latch are not good on either of mine. So I bought a new OEM console door and latch.

I noticed recently that my air intake hose from the air filter housing to the intake is starting to crack, 28yrs is pretty good for one of these! So I bought a new hose, the clamps and also a few of the seals for the air cleaner box.

When I did the timing belt and other work to the timing gear case I was unable to get a new valve cover gasket so I re-used the old one. I wasn't very happy about this so I have a new valve cover gasket coming too.

I have already installed new windshield washer nozzles on the truck but it seems the motor is shot. So I have a new washer bottle motor and rubber grommet coming.

The jack cover trim in the back was broken in three pieces when I got the truck and the washer bottle access cover was missing. I have both of these coming in the correct color.

As is common on many old Cruisers the rubber splash guards between the front inner fenders and the frame were in sad shape when I got the truck. Both sides, all new OEM splash guards are coming.

When I got the truck here in Idaho the brake light switch was acting up and upon inspection I found the plastic tit on it to be busted. I ordered a new brake light switch back then and installed it. After a couple weeks I started having issues again so upon further inspection I noticed the rubber stoppers were missing for both pedals. This being the little rubber bump that the brake light switch rests on. I installed new ones (on both brake and clutch pedal) and it is working perfect since. However, I still have the plastic bushing to install on the rod for the brake pedal (cross rod pivot point) as well as a new return spring on the brake pedal, clutch pedal and accelerator pedal. This should finish it all off nicely.



Besides all this I have a few parts left from previous purchases I have not installed. Such as the complete seat adjusters, this being the forward to back adjustment mechanism that allows you to adjust the seat back. These were not cheap! I need to tear the seats out of the truck and fit these and then I am happy with the seats. Not much else to do to the truck before I call it REFURBISHED and ready for another 200,000 miles and 25 or so years of use!

Cheers

 

[OGBeno]

Solid work. Rims are a good choice.

 

[SNLC]

Solid work. Rims are a good choice.

Thanks.

You can't get a 33x10.5 in a 16" wheel or I may have gone 16" wheels. To me, the 10.5" wide is perfect on these trucks. Yes I know, 295's or 305's and others are close to a 33x10.5 but for me they are just not the same. I also didn't like the $220/each for OEM wheels and the $50-60 more per tire. I have ran the MT Classic 2's on two other Cruisers (a 60 & an 80) and liked it on both those trucks. So that is what I went with and hey tires are cheapest in the 15" variety with a lot more selection than 16" wheels. That is a good thing for the future and tire purchases.

It does rub a little bit on the front mud flap under compression. I am going to take a heat gun to the mud flap and bend it back enough to clear.

No lift on this truck and it clears the 33's fine. That is pretty cool and I am happy about it plus I think it fills the wheel well out just right. I expected to notice a power loss going from 31's (measured 30") to the 33's but really I don't notice any power loss. It rides killer and some vibrations I had before from the crappy wheels is now a thing of the past.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Oh ya, one more thing I have in the works that may help other people as well.

You can't get a complete lock & key set any more for the diesel trucks with the glow selection. I could be wrong, maybe it is available for the 1HZ trucks, I don't think I ever checked but it is not available for the 1PZ trucks and from my experience these parts are all the same on the diesel trucks be it 1PZ or 1HZ. Months ago I bought a lock and key set kit but it was for the gasser trucks. I had hoped I could take the tumbler out of the gas ignition and fit it to my old diesel one so that the truck would have one key for everything. Sadly, this can not be done because the tumbler sizes are different in diameter and do not interchange. I have already fit all new OEM locks to the whole truck and only recently discovered the tumblers not interchanging. You can still get the diesel ignition with key just not in a whole lock and key set. So I have the new diesel ignition coming, it was a last resort because I really wanted the truck to have one key for everything. Oh well, now it is like a Chevy with a key for all the locks and one for the ignition. At least it is all new, this truck had aftermarket locks fitted when I got it and the 28yr old ignition barrel is showing it's age.

Cheers

 

[FJ73Texas]

Those are nice tires and wheels.

Not used to seeing the barcodes with the wheels mounted. Is the other side OWL?

 

[OGBeno]

Oh ya, one more thing I have in the works that may help other people as well.

You can't get a complete lock & key set any more for the diesel trucks with the glow selection. I could be wrong, maybe it is available for the 1HZ trucks, I don't think I ever checked but it is not available for the 1PZ trucks and from my experience these parts are all the same on the diesel trucks be it 1PZ or 1HZ. Months ago I bought a lock and key set kit but it was for the gasser trucks. I had hoped I could take the tumbler out of the gas ignition and fit it to my old diesel one so that the truck would have one key for everything. Sadly, this can not be done because the tumbler sizes are different in diameter and do not interchange. I have already fit all new OEM locks to the whole truck and only recently discovered the tumblers not interchanging. You can still get the diesel ignition with key just not in a whole lock and key set. So I have the new diesel ignition coming, it was a last resort because I really wanted the truck to have one key for everything. Oh well, now it is like a Chevy with a key for all the locks and one for the ignition. At least it is all new, this truck had aftermarket locks fitted when I got it and the 28yr old ignition barrel is showing it's age.

Cheers

A locksmith can key all of the cylinders to one key. Pretty reasonably as well.

 

[SNLC]

A locksmith can key all of the cylinders to one key. Pretty reasonably as well.

Already been to one, not happening due to the reasons I went over above.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Upgrades!

Cheers

 

[coldtaco]

you can get a 255/85/16 as similar to the 33/10.5/15. or do you not like any of the options in the 16" size?

 

[SNLC]

you can get a 255/85/16 as similar to the 33/10.5/15. or do you not like any of the options in the 16" size?

Cost and tire options.

Cheers