putting 1 tons under my lx have a few questions (1 Viewer)

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i like that the dodge axle is 2 inches narrower. the dodge has a beefier inner c also.

and the hubs are just a liability for such a heavy truck with full time 4wd and big tires. sell the lockouts and do drive flanges asap. the full time dodge dana 60's are cheeep.

i busted my d70 r&p already. $1000 to have marlin fix it. wish i would have went with a 14b. the 5.86 gears might have been a little weak and the pinion gear...

the 488's are fine if you are staying with 37's. any bigger tires than that and you will want deeper gears. 25% deeper is also possible with the Marks 3.180 series tcase gear swap-swap is easy. with 5.86 gears and the 3.1 tcase gears you get almost 50% deeper gears than stock.

get er done
 
@pkp80, i didnt break toy axles, i want to run 40's and i couldnt pass up this deal, he is paying for every bracket i need to put these under my rig

@ dusty, the hubs are the weak link, but considering i already blew the cash on a part time kit, i might as well do hubs, i'll invest in drive flanges when i can afford to trailer the thing, and ya the deepest i'll need to go gear wise is 538's, but for now i gotta get the 600$ hubs ant rotors to convert it to srw, how did you do your brakes dusty? am i going to need a larger master to pump fluid into the massive 1ton brakes?
 
where did you find that? and did it bolt on to the stock booster?

ive decided i'm just going to swap out the front axle to a 60, the conversion hubs are 20$ more than the stock ones, so i wouldnt have to buy new wheels, and the width difference is only going to be about an inch over the rear
 
The front end of the 80 is the weak link. If you arnt going giant on the tires and if you have a little discipline on the throttle your stocker rear will likely be fine. I ran 37's for a year on the stock axles and was not easy on the truck. It did fine. But get the 60 for sure.

And I Baught the rock stomper 1 ton master kit but never installed it. I still run the stock master but it is just adequate. I would not recommend it for a daily driver. I trailer my truck everywhere.

I dont know why more of us aren't putting 9" rears in the 80. They are cheap and plentifull. We have heavy trucks but no hp. I'll bet the 9" with a simple truss would hold up fine.

Blitzkrieg is building my dream rear axle now: chromoly housing 3.5", trussed, flipped, all 4130, TT axle with 10", arb,35sp 300m shafts, aluminum TT hubs, wilwood 4 caliper brakes.......sexy.
http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/products.asp?section=housings_all
 
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Is a 9" that much stronger than the 9.5" LC rear? Is it all in the axle shafts?
 
Is a 9" that much stronger than the 9.5" LC rear? Is it all in the axle shafts?

they have three pinion bearings like the 10.5 14 bolt, the third bearing is at the top of the pinion to prevent gear deflection, im going to keep the stock rear end becaue'm already geared and locked back there, i also have 2" wheel spacers so the difference between the front and rear axles width wise will be about 1"

hey dusty what size ram do you have for your hydro assist? i have a 1.5x8 on there right now, will that work?
 
Blitzkrieg is building my dream rear axle now: chromoly housing 3.5", trussed, flipped, all 4130, TT axle with 10", arb,35sp 300m shafts, aluminum TT hubs, wilwood 4 caliper brakes.......sexy.
Blitzkrieg Motor Sports

wou .. ! :eek: that will be ready for 47"
 
yes now if only i could find a way to make a money tree...
 
they have three pinion bearings like the 10.5 14 bolt, the third bearing is at the top of the pinion to prevent gear deflection, im going to keep the stock rear end becaue'm already geared and locked back there, i also have 2" wheel spacers so the difference between the front and rear axles width wise will be about 1"

hey dusty what size ram do you have for your hydro assist? i have a 1.5x8 on there right now, will that work?

i have the trail gear 1.5" ram. if u go bigger than that get a bigger pump or dont drive it as a daily driver.

wou .. ! :eek: that will be ready for 47"

or 38's, 500hp, and 50mph in 1 foot whoops
 
what throw are you using? will an 8 inch throw work?
 
js93cruiser,
I've got a narrowed "early" Dodge 60 under my FJ55 with hydro assist. I'll double check on the ram but I want to say it is 1.5" with 6" throw. I've got a huge stack of reciepts I'll need to go through.:rolleyes: I believe my hi-steer arms are Blue Torch.

As you noted, the Dodge housing is 2" narrower than the chevy. It is ALL on the passenger side of the axle.

The inner C is the same between the Dodge and Chevy. I've had both housings and the C's were the same.

On the hubs, double check which ones you get before getting them. There are SRW hubs that are external(I'm running a set)

My 55 is slowly getting into DD duties and so far, it has done well with 60s.

On my brakes, I believe I'm using an FJ80 master with a Supra booster. It easily locks up the stock 1 ton front brakes and 3/4 ton converted rear brakes with 35" tires. I'm still tinkering with the bias.

If you swing by Drews, I can haul the 55 over there for you to look at(I'm ~5 blocks away)


THANKS FOR THE INFO! if you could get back to me on that throw thaat would be grear, i think i'll be fine with just the stock master, i'm going to get a set of warn internal hubs for the front end
 
i cant remember my throw. its in my build thread. i think its 8".

the dana 60 bible on pirate is great reading. i cant remember what years had what inner c's but mayy of the dodge had the bigger inner c. when i put the tons under my lexus i baught a dodge, chevy, and ford dana 60. i decided against the chevy cause it was just too wide unless i went with h1 type backspacing. but the c's on the dodge are remarkably beefier. its impressive. if you are going to be welding stuff onto the c's (like shock mounts) the dodge is a winner
 
thats why i want the dodge, i heard about the inner c strength, they are quite impressive, combine that with 35 spline inners and thats one hell of an axle lol
 
do you have any pics of that?
 
no i dont have any pics of any of the axle swap. i wish i had taken some but i was using every free minute i had just to get it done and get back wheeling. the rod adjustment is very simple. it threads into the lever on the brake pedal and has a jam nut to keep it tight. just loosen the jam nut and spin the rod out with your fingers. i spun it out until it contacted the master cyl and wouldnt go any further then backed it off a bit to have a little freeplay in the pedal.
 
took a few pics of the truck to see if i can get them on here. testing
truck.jpg
truck2.jpg
 
thats a sweet rig man, where did you get that master cyl from??
 

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